When constructing an enclosure with simple butt joints, do you use screws and glue, or glue only? I plan on veneering the box (with formica), so the screws would be hidden.
I'm only hesitant because i don't want to risk delaminating or splitting the joints. The enclosure is made of 3/4 MDF, and I've had bad luck combining screws with MDF. These would be used in home.
I'm only hesitant because i don't want to risk delaminating or splitting the joints. The enclosure is made of 3/4 MDF, and I've had bad luck combining screws with MDF. These would be used in home.
When I do mine I drill pilot holes to stop the mdf from splitting. I use screws to hold the panels together while the glue sets then remove and fill the holes with car body filler (bondo) and sand.
Also the screws just need tightening enough to squeeze the glue out. Don't force them.
Rob.
Also the screws just need tightening enough to squeeze the glue out. Don't force them.
Rob.
I use two methods of construction depending on box.
1/ Screws and corner battons.
2/ Glue only.
The screws through battons works well but does leave screw heads showing so I usually cover the box in thin carpet.
The glue method works well too but needs very accurate sawing to ensure no gaps.
Advantage is now screw hears showing.
1/ Screws and corner battons.
2/ Glue only.
The screws through battons works well but does leave screw heads showing so I usually cover the box in thin carpet.
The glue method works well too but needs very accurate sawing to ensure no gaps.
Advantage is now screw hears showing.
I am relatively new but I rabbit 3/4 Baltic birch plywood pin/glue/clamp. For glue I use polyurethane glue (Gorilla) and wet the surfaces with a rag before applying glue. The glue will foam up and expand and help fill any voids, however the box must be clamped securely or they will push apart. Be sure to scrape the excess off before the glue completely cures or you will be sanding for the rest of your life.
Bill
Bill
Only glue for final product, screws for fast prototypes.
Rabbet joints are nice and easy. Flush trim the edges with a router after all gluing done. Also a bit easier to assemble than with simple butt joint. Downside, requires a router + time for routing
Rabbet joints are nice and easy. Flush trim the edges with a router after all gluing done. Also a bit easier to assemble than with simple butt joint. Downside, requires a router + time for routing
Attachments
Downside, requires a router + time for routing
or a rabbet plane
When constructing an enclosure with simple butt joints, do you use screws and glue, or glue only? I plan on veneering the box (with formica), so the screws would be hidden.
Fasteners weaken joints, so if used as clamps, then ideally remove them and use a glue/sawdust paste to back fill.
FWIW I normally drill a pilot hole for insetting paneling nails, then back filled. Too small in diameter to be a structural issue and never loosen due to being ribbed.
GM
How do fasteners weaken joints?Fasteners weaken joints, so if used as clamps, then ideally remove them and use a glue/sawdust paste to back fill.
FWIW I normally drill a pilot hole for insetting paneling nails, then back filled. Too small in diameter to be a structural issue and never loosen due to being ribbed.
GM
I use the rabbets and flush trim as well. Did butt joints on my first build, and I will never use them again because of how difficult it was to get the edges lined up flush. With rabbets and flush trim, it all just fits together and supports itself, making glue up and clamping super easy.
I used butt joints (no screws) on a sealed enclosure (MDF) for a Stereo Integrity HST-18d2. I did brace it fairly well. If you are not familiar with the driver, let me say it can move some air and I'm sure the pressures inside the enclosure are not trivial. It has held up fine so far but it was my first real enclosure build and if I were to do it again I would probably use Baltic Birch and some fancier joints.
When I built my DTQWTII I used dowels, the whole construction does not have a single screw, but if I made a new box, in a simple way and together, I would use screws, they put the panels in their exact place, like a guide. Then you take them out and drill with a wick of a diameter slightly inferior to the dowell. Finally they are trimmed flush and they remain aesthetically very well.
I did not use that technique because the upper joints were made at 45 degrees, a real pain if you do not have a carpentry cutting table.
DTQWTII from Argentina
I did not use that technique because the upper joints were made at 45 degrees, a real pain if you do not have a carpentry cutting table.
DTQWTII from Argentina
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