I recently acquired 4 18" scoop bins at an absurdly cheap price
due to reclaim of storage space.
Unfortunately, they are made of High Density chipboard,
and covered with aged vinly covering, but have good dimensions and are VERY, VERY solid.
My "Sound Guy" I took with me to check them out before buying them, said it would be worthwhile to strip the vinyl, and spray them with fibreglass resin.
I am in E London.
Q1. Where can I get fibreglass spray in London?
Q2. Is it better to paint boxes first, then spray/paint on resin?
Q3. Would it be cheaper for a cabinet maker to do it ?
Thanx in advance.
due to reclaim of storage space.
Unfortunately, they are made of High Density chipboard,
and covered with aged vinly covering, but have good dimensions and are VERY, VERY solid.
My "Sound Guy" I took with me to check them out before buying them, said it would be worthwhile to strip the vinyl, and spray them with fibreglass resin.
I am in E London.
Q1. Where can I get fibreglass spray in London?
Q2. Is it better to paint boxes first, then spray/paint on resin?
Q3. Would it be cheaper for a cabinet maker to do it ?
Thanx in advance.
fibreglass spray ? You'd need a specialist fibreglass fabricator
that has the equipment for spraying chopped fibre, why you'd
want to do this I'm not sure.
Fibreglass resin is polyester resin, I can't see the advantage
of using the stuff over say rollering on scuff resistant paint.
If you strip the vinyl depending on the glue uses to attach the
vinyl your likely to end up with some very ropey looking cabinets.
If the vinyl is not damaged I'd simply remove all protrective fittings
and spray or use a roller with black paint. Even black shoe polish
works a treat on very tired looking vinyl, though black spray paint
is obvoiusly more permanent, try black hammerite spray paint.
Then refit all protective fittings.
sreten.
that has the equipment for spraying chopped fibre, why you'd
want to do this I'm not sure.
Fibreglass resin is polyester resin, I can't see the advantage
of using the stuff over say rollering on scuff resistant paint.
If you strip the vinyl depending on the glue uses to attach the
vinyl your likely to end up with some very ropey looking cabinets.
If the vinyl is not damaged I'd simply remove all protrective fittings
and spray or use a roller with black paint. Even black shoe polish
works a treat on very tired looking vinyl, though black spray paint
is obvoiusly more permanent, try black hammerite spray paint.
Then refit all protective fittings.
sreten.
Thanks for info.
I like the sound of the "old hammerite ploy"..
However the vinyl will definetly have to go as couple of the bins have big rips and tears.
The sound guy mentioned the fibre glass spray as we know of a PA manuf. who uses chipboard boxes and sprays them.
I thought the fibre glass waterproofed and strengthened, but I guess not. So if Hammerite waterproofs and goes on OK.. why not..
If there is "ropey" glue left after removing vinyl, what can be used to remove it safely from the chipB?
Can the Hammerite be applied straight to the bare chipboard ?
Cheers.
I like the sound of the "old hammerite ploy"..
However the vinyl will definetly have to go as couple of the bins have big rips and tears.
The sound guy mentioned the fibre glass spray as we know of a PA manuf. who uses chipboard boxes and sprays them.
I thought the fibre glass waterproofed and strengthened, but I guess not. So if Hammerite waterproofs and goes on OK.. why not..
If there is "ropey" glue left after removing vinyl, what can be used to remove it safely from the chipB?
Can the Hammerite be applied straight to the bare chipboard ?
Cheers.
'spray fibreglass resin' is something I would imagine is nothing short of horrendous and probably comes from the same factory as 'asbestos christmas decorations'
Hammerite paint has glass fibres in it as well as the silicone -- that's why it dries so hard. It's possible that's what the person meant. Hammerite can chip though. Maybe if you can get a big trade tin of car anti-stonechip paint that would be the best solution (with a standard overcoat to pretty it up).
Hammerite paint has glass fibres in it as well as the silicone -- that's why it dries so hard. It's possible that's what the person meant. Hammerite can chip though. Maybe if you can get a big trade tin of car anti-stonechip paint that would be the best solution (with a standard overcoat to pretty it up).
I think I have been convinced into forgetting fibre spray/resin.
The Boxes have obviously lasted quite a few years and are still very solid. I just want them to be water/moisture/weather proofed enough for transit to/from indoor events (wedding receptions/hired halls/dinner&dance).
Carpet looks nice, but hassle to maintain...
Have been told today about a Product from a company in Uxbridge UK, called "Trimite".
Appararently a Primer/Single Coat application used precisely for PA/Band enclosures.....
Anyone know of/used this before ?
The Boxes have obviously lasted quite a few years and are still very solid. I just want them to be water/moisture/weather proofed enough for transit to/from indoor events (wedding receptions/hired halls/dinner&dance).
Carpet looks nice, but hassle to maintain...
Have been told today about a Product from a company in Uxbridge UK, called "Trimite".
Appararently a Primer/Single Coat application used precisely for PA/Band enclosures.....
Anyone know of/used this before ?
reply
So you said they are made of high density chipboard??? most chipboard is low density crap.
So all I can guess is they are a cement loaded grade of chipboard,being high density.
Anyway fine for install use only [in a pub/club permentally].But you said you want them to be moisture/water resistant LOL chipboard will crumble if it gets wet.
So either u flightcase them with metal corners and aluminium edge pieces and put at least 10 coats of paint on the crappy chipboard.They mite last ok if not got wet or moist.
But for any moist/wet condition, FORGET IT, and use normal ply or birch ply and nothing alse!
P.S.
Also chipboard don't hold screws well at all; put T nuts and use pozi head bolt/screws on every screw hole.
So you said they are made of high density chipboard??? most chipboard is low density crap.
So all I can guess is they are a cement loaded grade of chipboard,being high density.
Anyway fine for install use only [in a pub/club permentally].But you said you want them to be moisture/water resistant LOL chipboard will crumble if it gets wet.
So either u flightcase them with metal corners and aluminium edge pieces and put at least 10 coats of paint on the crappy chipboard.They mite last ok if not got wet or moist.
But for any moist/wet condition, FORGET IT, and use normal ply or birch ply and nothing alse!
P.S.
Also chipboard don't hold screws well at all; put T nuts and use pozi head bolt/screws on every screw hole.
Fiberglass is very water proof when you use the right stuff. What do you think boats are made of? Don't get the polyesther resin it is not completely waterproof. What you want is WEST system epoxy http://www.westsystem.com/ . It is quite strong and chip resistant. And, you don't have to use ANY fiberglass cloth if you don't want too. I believe it can also be tinted black if that is your preference. And most importantly, it can be applied right over any kind of wood, plastic, or steel. Just remove your vinyl, sand smooth and apply the epoxy.
BTW, check out some of the homemade boats in the photo gallery.... http://www.westsystem.com/cgi-bin/ewmag_readproj.pl .
Good luck
BTW, check out some of the homemade boats in the photo gallery.... http://www.westsystem.com/cgi-bin/ewmag_readproj.pl .
Good luck
HiSPL said:
Thanks H, and they have couple of UK distributors too...
This sounds like the stuff that PA manuf used.
I didn't see anything on the website about how to spray the mixed epoxy/hardner compound.. These babies I got are approx 48"(H)x23"(W)x27"(D), So it's either spray or roller.
Have you ever done/seen this stuff sprayed with a black tint mixed in?
Has "anyone" used it before ?
Cheers again "H".
reply
Even if u treat them with fibreglass on the outside,moisture will still get in and make the chipboard crumble.
Learn the hard way if you can think you can use crappy chipboard cabinets in wet conditions.
If chipboard was so good every pa manufactor would use it LOL
Don't just take my word for it read it here.
http://colomar.com/Shavano/pa_speaker_project.html
And read Box Thickness and Materials on that section!
Even if u treat them with fibreglass on the outside,moisture will still get in and make the chipboard crumble.
Learn the hard way if you can think you can use crappy chipboard cabinets in wet conditions.
If chipboard was so good every pa manufactor would use it
LOLDon't just take my word for it read it here.
http://colomar.com/Shavano/pa_speaker_project.html
And read Box Thickness and Materials on that section!
Re: reply
Bull, Thanks for your input and obvious experience.
I completely agree with you, ply is best and if I had the choice (and dollaeros) I would either commission scoops made out of marine or birch ply or buy *** scoops.
However, I just need these "cheap and cheerfulls" to last long enough and serve me enough to finance the above and some used crown 2400's .. (Personal preference, no flames please..)
Bull, Thanks for your input and obvious experience.
I completely agree with you, ply is best and if I had the choice (and dollaeros) I would either commission scoops made out of marine or birch ply or buy *** scoops.
However, I just need these "cheap and cheerfulls" to last long enough and serve me enough to finance the above and some used crown 2400's .. (Personal preference, no flames please..)
Re: reply
I wonder. Chip board is what we used to call OSB. Made up of glued and pressed wafers. You can't make cabinets from it. I wonder if he means particle board or more likely K3. This was acceptable for indoor speakers for years before we came upon MDF, which incidentally isn't that much different from K3 except that MDF has the allowance of a larger chip.
Cal
Bull said:
I wonder. Chip board is what we used to call OSB. Made up of glued and pressed wafers. You can't make cabinets from it. I wonder if he means particle board or more likely K3. This was acceptable for indoor speakers for years before we came upon MDF, which incidentally isn't that much different from K3 except that MDF has the allowance of a larger chip.
Cal
I think that when this person was talking about spray on fibreglass that they were just talking about Resin and not actualy Chopped Strand Mat.
If they were talking about actually using fibreglass that would be crazy as fibreglass barley sticks to scuffed up plywood let alone particle board.
Resin would waterproof them to a point but no more than paint would.
The fact that you will be pulling off vinly means that you will have to grind all the excess glue off (sanding disks will eventually do the job but they will clog easily, so I would go with a grinder and a grinding disk) any glue left on there and the resin will not harden in those areas.
By now the boxes would be full of bumps and grind marks and a clear resin would do them no good in the looks dept.
The resin would not stregnthen the boxes at all only waterproof.
My solution would be , rip the vinyl off, brace them up a bit and carpet the buggers.Unless they are for an install they are not going to last long but should last long enough to make some money off them.
If they were talking about actually using fibreglass that would be crazy as fibreglass barley sticks to scuffed up plywood let alone particle board.
Resin would waterproof them to a point but no more than paint would.
The fact that you will be pulling off vinly means that you will have to grind all the excess glue off (sanding disks will eventually do the job but they will clog easily, so I would go with a grinder and a grinding disk) any glue left on there and the resin will not harden in those areas.
By now the boxes would be full of bumps and grind marks and a clear resin would do them no good in the looks dept.
The resin would not stregnthen the boxes at all only waterproof.
My solution would be , rip the vinyl off, brace them up a bit and carpet the buggers.Unless they are for an install they are not going to last long but should last long enough to make some money off them.
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