Prasi very kindly posted a version of the Store's speaker protection board using solid state relays (and in a slightly smaller package). See post #708: https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...ctor-board-set-v3.247279/page-36#post-7543847
Thanks folks. I'll look into these. I already have the store board winging its way to me, but it's good to know I have other options.
I have to say I've seen the Neurochrome unit before, and while I'm sure it's very good, I'm not a fan of just plugging in a pre-populated SMD board - just feels like I've cheated.
I've been unclear. I should say I have this feeling about all pre-populated boards, simply because what I find enjoyable about DIY is doing everything, as much as possible, myself. Even if it's not the best implementation. I know you're aware of this kind of thing because you've said yourself the LM3886 Done Right is, and always will be, through hole. That market exists.
I have no doubt the component you've chosen is the best performing, and a pre-populated board is the best way of providing that performance to the customer. No doubt at all. I'm not intending to insult your work.
I just prefer soldering all the bits where I can. Personally.
I didn't perceive any insult so no worries there. I do understand that some enjoy the build process from start to finish while others are, frankly, tired of soldering everything. It's just unfortunate that those who wish to complete every solder joint themselves will likely have to give up some performance in exchange for that. I plan to cater to both segments for as long as it's practical.
Tom
Tom
The ones I use have tiny little exposed legs and I suppose could be hand soldered but a hot plate and solder paste would be needed for the wide drain electrode. I never thought about offering the PCBs as bare before because I assumed people just wanted these to work as a piece of gear.
The above is the latest version but the MOSFET footprint has a large pad underneath the 4 “pins” on one side. This is needed for thermal conduction for cooling.
Here is the PCB for v1 (which works fine as long as amp is not bridged).
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24 volts DC can be reduced to 12 volts with a 7812 regulator. That would be the way I would look at.
For AC you need 9 volt, not 18 volt. 9 volts AC * 1.41 gives approx 12 volt DC (rms voltage * 1.41 less the 0.6 of the rectifier diode).
Thank you for that detailed breakdown of what's involved - I can certainly see why you offer the board complete. Definitely beyond my skillset at the minute. You're probably right that most (if not all) people want something that just works. I think I'm just passing the time more than anything, so the more I have to do myself, the more I keep myself busy.
