Well I have a ton of questions, and since you guys seem very informed I'll ask them here...
eBay electronics.. I've been to ebay and have seen many different manufacturers that I haven't heard of, for instance Pyle. It may or may not be some high end audio that I haven't heard of buy either way, I'm wary of brands that I haven't heard of. Does anyone know what kind of quality these unknown brands carry? Also, you see those 2000 watt amps all the time on ebay, are those pretty much overrated cheap amps that aren't worth the money to buy? Just wondering
I've seen different schematics for building your own amp, and I have little to no knowledge in building electronics, but am very interested in building my own amp, and am sure I have the know-how as long as there's a manual =]. As of now I'm interested in building an amp for a dual 10" bandpass box that I have. They're Visonik's, and I bought them on the spur of the moment since they were like $100 usd at Fry's. Are these any good? I don't have any specs on them, and would like some, I do know they're rated at 1000 watts peak, 500 rms for the both of them. Now to build a car audio amp, mono or stereo amp that would be capable of powering my subs, roughly how much would I have to spend in parts to build my own amp as opposed to buying an amp? I would like at least 500 watts available at 2 ohms if not more.
I also have wiring questions. Let's suppose each sub in the box is rated at 4ohms, 250watts rms and there are two of them. I have a 200 watt amp (peak?/rms? I dont have the specs so I don't know) that I use to power these subs. How should I wire them, for example series or parallel, also they are not dvc's? The amp probably can handle no less than a 2 ohm load. I know that in a series it would total 8ohms, and parallel it would be 2 ohms. The main question I'm getting at is does either wiring method pose any difference in sound quality? I ask this question because if it were wired parallel mode, basically, unless i am mistaken, one sub pushes out, while the other pushes in, does it not because they are out of phase? I'm not sure at all please do clear my confusion. I hope I'm not underpowering my subs am I?
Also, vacuum tubes were used in the early stages of computing/amplification/whatever u want to call it. However, reading audiophile magazines, some of the high end companies still use vacuum tubes. What are the benefits of using vacuum tubes? Just wondering, one would generally think highend audio would be using some of the latest and greatest technological advancements of the 21st century.
What are so great about MB Quart's that their most expensive speaker goes for about $500 usd for one speaker??? Considering sound quality, Are Infinity Kappa's and Reference series a much better product compared to lets say, Kenwood or Pioneer or other name-brand manufacturers?
eBay electronics.. I've been to ebay and have seen many different manufacturers that I haven't heard of, for instance Pyle. It may or may not be some high end audio that I haven't heard of buy either way, I'm wary of brands that I haven't heard of. Does anyone know what kind of quality these unknown brands carry? Also, you see those 2000 watt amps all the time on ebay, are those pretty much overrated cheap amps that aren't worth the money to buy? Just wondering
I've seen different schematics for building your own amp, and I have little to no knowledge in building electronics, but am very interested in building my own amp, and am sure I have the know-how as long as there's a manual =]. As of now I'm interested in building an amp for a dual 10" bandpass box that I have. They're Visonik's, and I bought them on the spur of the moment since they were like $100 usd at Fry's. Are these any good? I don't have any specs on them, and would like some, I do know they're rated at 1000 watts peak, 500 rms for the both of them. Now to build a car audio amp, mono or stereo amp that would be capable of powering my subs, roughly how much would I have to spend in parts to build my own amp as opposed to buying an amp? I would like at least 500 watts available at 2 ohms if not more.
I also have wiring questions. Let's suppose each sub in the box is rated at 4ohms, 250watts rms and there are two of them. I have a 200 watt amp (peak?/rms? I dont have the specs so I don't know) that I use to power these subs. How should I wire them, for example series or parallel, also they are not dvc's? The amp probably can handle no less than a 2 ohm load. I know that in a series it would total 8ohms, and parallel it would be 2 ohms. The main question I'm getting at is does either wiring method pose any difference in sound quality? I ask this question because if it were wired parallel mode, basically, unless i am mistaken, one sub pushes out, while the other pushes in, does it not because they are out of phase? I'm not sure at all please do clear my confusion. I hope I'm not underpowering my subs am I?
Also, vacuum tubes were used in the early stages of computing/amplification/whatever u want to call it. However, reading audiophile magazines, some of the high end companies still use vacuum tubes. What are the benefits of using vacuum tubes? Just wondering, one would generally think highend audio would be using some of the latest and greatest technological advancements of the 21st century.
What are so great about MB Quart's that their most expensive speaker goes for about $500 usd for one speaker??? Considering sound quality, Are Infinity Kappa's and Reference series a much better product compared to lets say, Kenwood or Pioneer or other name-brand manufacturers?
Questions - The Road to Understanding
So many
and good
QUESTIONS
I have to think a little
I'll be back with my answers
Basic question
is sometimes good for us all.
We might have reached so far
that we have gotten "off the road"
at the risk of end up
in some ditch
or
in a dead end street
.....
Thanks, res09ggm
for eventually Helping to bring
quite a few
back upon the main road to Good Audio, again
halojoy say: Questioning Your Self
instead of Other's - A Nice little habbit - Will NOT harm You
So many
and good
QUESTIONS
I have to think a little
I'll be back with my answers
Basic question
is sometimes good for us all.
We might have reached so far
that we have gotten "off the road"
at the risk of end up
in some ditch
or
in a dead end street
.....
Thanks, res09ggm
for eventually Helping to bring
quite a few
back upon the main road to Good Audio, again
halojoy say: Questioning Your Self
instead of Other's - A Nice little habbit - Will NOT harm You
So true. Unfortunately there is no straight answer to this question. There *are* many good products that don't have names you hear often. The trouble is, things change over the years and you can't rely on name alone to steer you.
You mentioned Pyle. In the 80's they were a speaker-only company, much like MTX at the time. They made good speakers at reasonable prices, and were one of the early car audio companies to begin driving the industry toward separate component installations. I have no idea what their products are like today.
The best deals are on used equipment, but you must know what you are buying and what it should cost. Research is the only way to find it...
I would recommend spending a couple of weeks visiting every car audio store you can find, big and small. Talk to more than one person at each, and listen to the employee's cars whenever possible. Remember that many of these guys live car audio and are very passionate about the products they like. That doesn't mean they are entirely correct. Try to keep your mind open.
Don't expect a manual! Most designs are cookbook-style, and require some electronic instruments for tuning. Beyond the schematic: finding a proper heatsink is extremely important, and PCB layout to fit the sink while not creating noise problems is a geniune pain, etc.
And don't plan on building your own to save money, used amps are cheaper. If you want to do if for fun, go for it. Just expect it to take far more time than you expect.
Again in the 80's... Visonik-David speakers were sold alongside Alphasonik amps. They made excellent speakers. I preferred their D5200 plates over the legendary ADS 300i's. In fact, I still have a pair of their 4" plates. But that was then. I have no idea what they produce today.
I will, however, offer my 2¢ on speakers. The installation is by far the most important part of the car audio system, especially true for speakers.
First, ignore power ratings. They're usually BS useful for little more than marketing. the primary concern is getting a speaker that will work in the environment you're car has to offer, and a good amp to drive them. Most any speaker will sound pretty good if you use a suitable enclosure and crossover. I've heard Radio Shack woofers sound good and Rockford Pro's sound like crap. The ACOUSTIC power handling of a speaker/box combination is usually way, way, lower than you'd expect. So low that even an accurate electrical power rating is almost pointless.
I'll have to resort to another post to continue, meanwhile getting ready for flames...
Tim
car audio
You can safely ignore virtually every car amp manufacturers power claims...(1000 watts into 2 ohms) etc. They use 'marketing strategies' as opposed to reality. Onward...It;s my experience that EVERY speaker co, that caters to the car crowd is selling overpriced product...(more marketing hype). I've saved literally hundreds (Thousands?) of dollars by finding 4 ohm speakers at places like madisound or parts express...building simple boxes (that fit under or behind seats) or installing same in door panels with tweeters from same outfits...using simple cap on tweeter.running woofers with no crossover. In every way,this is superior to what "car toys" are out there..and much less expensive. You will have to do a little research..and begin getting catologs,but you'll be surprised at what can be done- and how easy it is to D.I.Y.
You can safely ignore virtually every car amp manufacturers power claims...(1000 watts into 2 ohms) etc. They use 'marketing strategies' as opposed to reality. Onward...It;s my experience that EVERY speaker co, that caters to the car crowd is selling overpriced product...(more marketing hype). I've saved literally hundreds (Thousands?) of dollars by finding 4 ohm speakers at places like madisound or parts express...building simple boxes (that fit under or behind seats) or installing same in door panels with tweeters from same outfits...using simple cap on tweeter.running woofers with no crossover. In every way,this is superior to what "car toys" are out there..and much less expensive. You will have to do a little research..and begin getting catologs,but you'll be surprised at what can be done- and how easy it is to D.I.Y.
So you're saying that whether it's infinity kappa or perfects or whatever brand name speaker there is out there, disregard it and go to parts express and buy a speaker there and save hundreds?? Sounds sweet but what does everyone else think? Sure I would love to save money but I also want a quality setup. If I wanted to do what you did, give me some hints/tips on choosing the right components.
Another question, how are the products made by Jensen, Blaupunkt, Pyramid, and those other brands you see that are very cheap. For overall experience should I stick with Infinity's? What other brands are there besides Infinity that have awesome quality that i should be aware of relevant to car audio.
tsmith1315 said:
A lot of good advices from Tim!
I have never thought of it,
but a Car can become very warm inside.
(don't leave you child or dog inside a car in the sun)
This means that adecvat cooling of Amplifier
is of GREAT IMPORTANCE.
.....
Also vince8 has an advice I like:
Buy your 4 ohms speaker from loudspeaker drivers manufacturers directly
For ordinary loudspeaker building.
Like Peerless, Vifa and all those welknown brands you know.
Fostex, Audax, Seas, JBL ... There are many good speaker makers.
Skip the middle man, the Car Audio shops.
Gives you better value for money, in most cases.
halo - still have no car
A high quality setup using $10 / speaker???
I'm not sure of the quality of Goldwood brand but here's the link,http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/show...6&St3=29369713&DS_ID=3&Product_ID=15719&DID=7 Supposing that this fits, and I get matching tweeters, All I would have to spend is ~60 for a setup? You can imagine my confusion when I'm used to seeing ~$200 for a pair of speakers.
Also, specifically 4 ohm speakers? Or can I broaden my choices by selecting 6 or 8 ohm speakers as well?
I'm not sure of the quality of Goldwood brand but here's the link,http://www.partsexpress.com/pe/show...6&St3=29369713&DS_ID=3&Product_ID=15719&DID=7 Supposing that this fits, and I get matching tweeters, All I would have to spend is ~60 for a setup? You can imagine my confusion when I'm used to seeing ~$200 for a pair of speakers.
Also, specifically 4 ohm speakers? Or can I broaden my choices by selecting 6 or 8 ohm speakers as well?
car toys-
It's been (more than a few years),but I'll try to give an objective opinion, and that's all it is. First, it's overwhelming to walk into a 'car toys' type of store ...and be assaulted by all the different brands available,the little..but LOUD listening rooms...the sales persons...with infinite knowledge and experience! (and a sales quota) and you,the customer...with..Hmmm..How much do you wish to spend? Anyway, these tactics work ..and send kids to college! Then they grow up and regret it. Onward to practicalities, I can't give advice on any of the brands you have been looking at thus far...'cause I refuse to walk into such places these days. Yes,infinity markets a decent product..and pioneer., is Aura still around? They did a bass/sub ...Am I rambling? Too much loud music in the past. I appreciate your desire to create a quality system and am sure someone with more current knowledge of what's out there will jump in with some pertinent advice. I'm old and jaded and have OPINION that persons that spend upwards of about 3-4 hundred dollars on a car system...should have donated the rest of money to a worthy charity of their own choice...or flushed it down toilet..(unless I sold it to you..in which case,you're one of the luckiest individuals walking on this planet..and probably still feel good about your ability to get the best deal in town.)
It's been (more than a few years),but I'll try to give an objective opinion, and that's all it is. First, it's overwhelming to walk into a 'car toys' type of store ...and be assaulted by all the different brands available,the little..but LOUD listening rooms...the sales persons...with infinite knowledge and experience! (and a sales quota) and you,the customer...with..Hmmm..How much do you wish to spend? Anyway, these tactics work ..and send kids to college! Then they grow up and regret it. Onward to practicalities, I can't give advice on any of the brands you have been looking at thus far...'cause I refuse to walk into such places these days. Yes,infinity markets a decent product..and pioneer., is Aura still around? They did a bass/sub ...Am I rambling? Too much loud music in the past. I appreciate your desire to create a quality system and am sure someone with more current knowledge of what's out there will jump in with some pertinent advice. I'm old and jaded and have OPINION that persons that spend upwards of about 3-4 hundred dollars on a car system...should have donated the rest of money to a worthy charity of their own choice...or flushed it down toilet..(unless I sold it to you..in which case,you're one of the luckiest individuals walking on this planet..and probably still feel good about your ability to get the best deal in town.)
car speakers
Hi again...(more very practical advice..especially in calif.) Try obtaining a set of "realistic minimus -7" speakers thru e-bay. Quite inexpensive..nominally 8 ohm, but that's no problem.Unhook whatever is in car now and throw these under seat..or attach to back of area by rear windshield. They're a design that's stood the test of time...(hard to do) Get the ones with the black steel case.(yes,they can be upgraded)...and don't worry about the alarm system!..that is no longer required.(it's a good thing)
Hi again...(more very practical advice..especially in calif.) Try obtaining a set of "realistic minimus -7" speakers thru e-bay. Quite inexpensive..nominally 8 ohm, but that's no problem.Unhook whatever is in car now and throw these under seat..or attach to back of area by rear windshield. They're a design that's stood the test of time...(hard to do) Get the ones with the black steel case.(yes,they can be upgraded)...and don't worry about the alarm system!..that is no longer required.(it's a good thing)
Just recently after suffering 10 years of a simple radio-tape headunit with the car series speakers (uhhhh) I decided to turn audio in my car to something better and began buying some stuff at ebay.
You can make great deals if You buy from reputable sellers (to me it seems that somehow particular in car audio there are more black sheeps than usually) and if You don`t want the latest models.
Even brandnew stuff (many times with original manufacturer warranty and receipt and all) often goes for half of what it retails in a normal shop (at least here in Germany - I don`t know how it`s in the US market).
Take Your time, compare the prices and watch auctions first without buying - quickly You`ll get a feeling what is worth how much.
Forget this 2000W $50 amp offers - it`s not only a waste of money it`s unnecessary.
Instead of high power I`d rather look out for handy features as built in active crossovers for instance.
I´m by no means yet an expert but I think the following small list (sure there are other`s which I don`t know) are quality amps and worth considering:
Audison
Soundstream
Genesis
Hifonics
I believe Pyle amps are one of the better brands of the not so good ones
Even if You had more knowledge in electronics IMO it`s not worth to build Your own car power amps (for educational purpose that´s fine but not for the money) unless maybe for an ultra "high-end" (if such thing exists in car audio) system.
A simple manual won`t do it. The amps itself are not so much the problem as there exist virtually hundrets of suitable schematics on the web which You could use. Where it get`s tricky is the (switch mode!) power supply to increase the 12V battery voltage to higher levels in order to achieve higher power amplifiers (more than the approximately 12 - to 20 W You get from a single 12V supply). Without some fundamental knowledge in electronics (and a certain minimum of test equipment) I wouldn`t think about trying this.
On the other hand if You want to hear music and don`t need a 130dB body massage You DON`T NEED 500Watts and more - that`s completely nonsense IMO.
To even hear loud and distortionfree, 50W per channel are plenty and maybe a bit more for the woofer (of course depending on the speakers).
Regarding car speakers:
As I see it the cheap stuff is mostly really crap (of course there`re always exceptions). The better stuff IMO is heavily overpriced. Here You can save big money when You follow the advise already given here and buy the drivers individually and make Your own crossovers. The acoustics in cars anyway are so different that ready bought systems would yield hugely different results depending of the car there are installed in (and where IN the car they`re placed).
Take care to choose 4 Ohm driver versions (if possible but this is not sooo important) - car amps are designed to give their rated power on 4 Ohms and below .
Some figures
Although not an absolute requirement, 4 ohms speakers,
as mentioned are to prefer.
Low supply voltage -> lower impedance to get same Output Power.
for a 12 volt supply you get, unbridged,
[(12/2)^2] / (2 x ohm) = Watt output
6^2 / (2x 8ohm) = 2.25 Watt at 8 ohm
36 / (2x 4ohm) = 4.50 Watt at 4 ohm
and of corse = 9 Watt at 2 ohm
(this is theoretical max figure)
If you want more power out, you have to use a bridged amp
which will give 4x more power:
9 watt at 8 ohm
18 watt at 4 ohm
36 at 2 ohm
This is how far you will get, with a supply of 12 volt.
The trick to get more is to raise the power supply,
using a Voltage doubler circuit.
If you feed such a circuit with 12V you get near 24 volt Out
from this power supply circuit.
If you then combine BOTH Voltage doubler ciruit
AND bridged Amplifier you can get high power out.
If you need it!!!
Remember that Car is a small room, it is not like a discopalace or even a normal living room.
more room volume = more power
at 24 volts AND Bridged amplifier you get:
36 watt in 8 ohm
72 watt in 4 ohm
144 watt in 2 ohm
(theoretical)
The Sound Pressure Level, SPL, you get out per Watt, also differ
from Loudspeaker to LSP.
One give 95 dB at 1 Watt input from Amplifier
One can give 90 dB at 1 Watt - that is LOUD!
Another give 85 dB at 1 watt
this is specified as Sensitivity of LSP, like SPL= 88dB
see datasheet for each loudspeaker driver
hope I got the figures right this time
/halojoy
res09ggm said:
Although not an absolute requirement, 4 ohms speakers,
as mentioned are to prefer.
Low supply voltage -> lower impedance to get same Output Power.
for a 12 volt supply you get, unbridged,
[(12/2)^2] / (2 x ohm) = Watt output
6^2 / (2x 8ohm) = 2.25 Watt at 8 ohm
36 / (2x 4ohm) = 4.50 Watt at 4 ohm
and of corse = 9 Watt at 2 ohm
(this is theoretical max figure)
If you want more power out, you have to use a bridged amp
which will give 4x more power:
9 watt at 8 ohm
18 watt at 4 ohm
36 at 2 ohm
This is how far you will get, with a supply of 12 volt.
The trick to get more is to raise the power supply,
using a Voltage doubler circuit.
If you feed such a circuit with 12V you get near 24 volt Out
from this power supply circuit.
If you then combine BOTH Voltage doubler ciruit
AND bridged Amplifier you can get high power out.
If you need it!!!
Remember that Car is a small room, it is not like a discopalace or even a normal living room.
more room volume = more power
at 24 volts AND Bridged amplifier you get:
36 watt in 8 ohm
72 watt in 4 ohm
144 watt in 2 ohm
(theoretical)
The Sound Pressure Level, SPL, you get out per Watt, also differ
from Loudspeaker to LSP.
One give 95 dB at 1 Watt input from Amplifier
One can give 90 dB at 1 Watt - that is LOUD!
Another give 85 dB at 1 watt
this is specified as Sensitivity of LSP, like SPL= 88dB
see datasheet for each loudspeaker driver
hope I got the figures right this time
/halojoy
As much as I enjoy this forum, the focus is certainly not car audio. Try www.elitecaraudio.com and www.sounddomain.com. Both have excellent help forums, and also some spectacular deals on used equipment. I've found research to be the main factor.
I'm a little behind on this thread, so first will be comments on replies, then a continued follow-up to the original post...
Good advice has permeated thus far such as vince8's:
The last dealer I worked for sold Rockford, Alpine, Infinity, MBQ, Kenwood, Pioneer, etc. and I could buy at dealer cost. I chose to roll my own. It's true you will have to do a little research, but that's educational. The time spent will pay for itself in many ways. Patience in learning some methods of speaker/crossover design before you buy and build will reward you with a personal system you'll be proud of, at less than you'd pay for a comparable off-the-shelf setup.
And cocolino's:
This is of utmost importance when listening to speakers in a display room. The speakers will absolutely NOT sound the same when you get them in your car.
Back to the original post:
No difference in sound quality, but definitely a difference in power output from the amp. Wire them for the lowest load your amp can SAFELY drive for maximum power delivery. Take note that if you're bridging the amp mono, the parallel wiring would require the amp to be stable to 1 ohm stereo operation,
The speakers will be in-phase if they are mounted in the same orientation in the box (magnets inside or magnets outside) and:
1) They are wired in parallel with +'s together and -'s together, or
2) They are wired in series by wiring the + of one woofer directly to the - of the other woofer and wiring the remaining + and - to the amp as normal.
IME, MB Quart's products were excellent. But unless you're building a very special system, no single speaker is worth $500.
Unfortunately, I can't comment on the current lines of MBQ, Infinity, etc. as I'm no longer in the business. But please don't depend on a name to sell you a product.
Just another reason to DIY! Check out Vifa and Peerless speakers for a start at Madisound . They make a few 4 ohm units for car use with grilles and surface mount tweeters at very reasonable prices.
Unless Pyramid has made a big change in their philosophy, stay away from them. I'd choose silence first. That's about the only brand that I have ever put a permanent label on.
Again I can't comment on current products, but here are a few older amps that were exceptional performers and may be had reasonably on ebay:
Orion 280gx. Good solid amp
Harmon Kardon ca260. Extremely potent
Soundstream D200. Very nice
Linear Power 2002. No BS, just solid power
Zapco Z220. My personal choice.
All except the Zapco were in the ~$500 price range new, and should go for $75-$100 now.
Good advice has permeated thus far such as vince8's:
The last dealer I worked for sold Rockford, Alpine, Infinity, MBQ, Kenwood, Pioneer, etc. and I could buy at dealer cost. I chose to roll my own. It's true you will have to do a little research, but that's educational. The time spent will pay for itself in many ways. Patience in learning some methods of speaker/crossover design before you buy and build will reward you with a personal system you'll be proud of, at less than you'd pay for a comparable off-the-shelf setup.
And cocolino's:
This is of utmost importance when listening to speakers in a display room. The speakers will absolutely NOT sound the same when you get them in your car.
Back to the original post:
No difference in sound quality, but definitely a difference in power output from the amp. Wire them for the lowest load your amp can SAFELY drive for maximum power delivery. Take note that if you're bridging the amp mono, the parallel wiring would require the amp to be stable to 1 ohm stereo operation,
The speakers will be in-phase if they are mounted in the same orientation in the box (magnets inside or magnets outside) and:
1) They are wired in parallel with +'s together and -'s together, or
2) They are wired in series by wiring the + of one woofer directly to the - of the other woofer and wiring the remaining + and - to the amp as normal.
IME, MB Quart's products were excellent. But unless you're building a very special system, no single speaker is worth $500.
Unfortunately, I can't comment on the current lines of MBQ, Infinity, etc. as I'm no longer in the business. But please don't depend on a name to sell you a product.
Just another reason to DIY! Check out Vifa and Peerless speakers for a start at Madisound . They make a few 4 ohm units for car use with grilles and surface mount tweeters at very reasonable prices.
Unless Pyramid has made a big change in their philosophy, stay away from them. I'd choose silence first. That's about the only brand that I have ever put a permanent label on.
Again I can't comment on current products, but here are a few older amps that were exceptional performers and may be had reasonably on ebay:
Orion 280gx. Good solid amp
Harmon Kardon ca260. Extremely potent
Soundstream D200. Very nice
Linear Power 2002. No BS, just solid power
Zapco Z220. My personal choice.
All except the Zapco were in the ~$500 price range new, and should go for $75-$100 now.
A speaker is only as good as the amp powering it. When dealing with speakers there are two things that you must keep in mind: positioning, and powering. You can turn speakers that cost a nickle into something better than Bose if you spend the time to position and power it right. Personally, I would not rely on Pyle. I've had nothing but trouble with them. In my own vehicle, I have an Audiobahn amp that retails at $700 hooked up to a few worthless Wal-Mart brand subwoofers that were not more than $30 a piece. Yet, no one that I have came across in our local city area has came even close to matching my sound performance. My recommendation, is to look for a quality amplifier. Find one with different crossover options such as LPF (Low Pass Frequency) or HPF (High Pass Frequency) depending on what you are hooking up. If you are hooking up a set of subwoofers, I can not recommend enough that you should look for a mono amplifier that can handle a very low impedence such as 1 ohm mono. This way, you can bridge your subwoofers in a parallel to make them sound the way they were built. However, when you first hook them up, do not crank them up as loud as they go. They MUST be broken in or they WILL be damaged.
My final advise is to make sure you shop around before you make a purchase. Ebay can be risky but can also be very rewarding if you find a decent seller. Some links to try:
www.carstereotime.com
www.caraudioexpert.com
www.cmttrading.com
My final advise is to make sure you shop around before you make a purchase. Ebay can be risky but can also be very rewarding if you find a decent seller. Some links to try:
www.carstereotime.com
www.caraudioexpert.com
www.cmttrading.com
As far as I am concerned, this is the best overall car audio knowledge site out there:
http://www.eatel.net/~amptech/elecdisc/caraudio.htm
http://www.eatel.net/~amptech/elecdisc/caraudio.htm
what do i choose for speakers & amps
i agree with tsmith on his advice, i guess you have friends who have car amps, why dont u try to listen to their set up, if you dont like what you hear even if it comes from a name brand models forget about it. if you like what you hear, start from there, list down all the stuff and start researching from car audio shops, but beware of strong marketing hype from the sales people. you might end up buying not what you were looking for.
By the way putting up quality sound in a vehicle is really very hard, so what most people do is swamp it with big amps to overcome all the glitches.
What matters most is "you like what you hear from your system, no matter the price you pay, and not what others like"
i agree with tsmith on his advice, i guess you have friends who have car amps, why dont u try to listen to their set up, if you dont like what you hear even if it comes from a name brand models forget about it. if you like what you hear, start from there, list down all the stuff and start researching from car audio shops, but beware of strong marketing hype from the sales people. you might end up buying not what you were looking for.
By the way putting up quality sound in a vehicle is really very hard, so what most people do is swamp it with big amps to overcome all the glitches.
What matters most is "you like what you hear from your system, no matter the price you pay, and not what others like"
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