I wanted to upload 2 pictures that may help someone when cutting a 45 degree angle on boards. I use 45's when cutting plywood to hide the layers. When I first started I noticed it was really hard to get matching pieces.
This is due to two major problems. The first one is once you tilt the blade it is much harder to see where the cut is. The second problem is since most table saws only tilt one way, when you cut the other side of the board the angle will usually slide under the fence.
First I cut my wood square. Then I set my saw for a 45 degree cut. I use a square on the saw blade, do not let the square set on the teeth.
Then I run my test piece adjusting the wood till I cut the angle without making the wood smaller in dimension. Once I have achieved this (took me 3 tries) I turn the saw off (I unplug mine) put the 45 degree wood back in the saw and use a scribe to make a line on my table (can use a good ink pen).
After that you now have a line on your saw for 45 degree angle cuts.
Then I use a piece of wood and 2" clamps to make sure the angle doesn't slide under the fence when cutting the other side.
Hope this helps someone.
This is due to two major problems. The first one is once you tilt the blade it is much harder to see where the cut is. The second problem is since most table saws only tilt one way, when you cut the other side of the board the angle will usually slide under the fence.
First I cut my wood square. Then I set my saw for a 45 degree cut. I use a square on the saw blade, do not let the square set on the teeth.
Then I run my test piece adjusting the wood till I cut the angle without making the wood smaller in dimension. Once I have achieved this (took me 3 tries) I turn the saw off (I unplug mine) put the 45 degree wood back in the saw and use a scribe to make a line on my table (can use a good ink pen).
After that you now have a line on your saw for 45 degree angle cuts.
Then I use a piece of wood and 2" clamps to make sure the angle doesn't slide under the fence when cutting the other side.
Hope this helps someone.
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Good idea. One concern though. You have a right tilt saw so when cutting 45's you want the fence on the left side. 🙂
EDIT: I know that limits the cut width but if you can...
EDIT: I know that limits the cut width but if you can...
This is cool I have similar saw. Contractor's saw on 4 steel legs. I see your problem and solution, good work! Back to the 'Saw'... You have adjusted it every conceivable way, right? Well I followed the advice and drawings from ShopNotes and deleted the steel legs for a heafty plywood cabinet effectively turning the Construction saw into a Cabinet saw! Added an after market fence system, new link belt and new zero clearance inserts! Accuracy and speed of adjustment make for vary satisfying work!
Cheers Brother!
Cheers Brother!
I could do it that way Cal, matter of fact I never thought to try to put the fence on the other side lol
I prefer good side down, even with the thin kerf blade. I did have to notch the piece of wood at the adjustment end to make sure the thin angle would not slide under.
This is an old saw (homecraft/delta 8" with jointer) with a cast iron base with 2" wheels.
The table saw is dead on, as you can see the insert I cut out to use a Dado blade, I'll eventually find another insert for regular blade use but so far no pieces of scrap have went flying. Being a steel table I had to wet sand it with 400 when I traded for it and if I don't keep it waxed or someone sits a cold beverage on it I have to sand it down again.
The jointer has 1 blade off and it is a PITA to adjust and I really see no use for it. (yet)
Each axle has a foot pedal that drops the frame down off the wheels, it doesn't move, usually I can just drop 1 axle. I need to make some guards especially on the motor/pulley and belt in the back. I really like the belt drive compared to the direct drive table I use to have, more forgiving, less vibration but my direct drive table was a cheap $100 craftsman.
I prefer good side down, even with the thin kerf blade. I did have to notch the piece of wood at the adjustment end to make sure the thin angle would not slide under.
This is an old saw (homecraft/delta 8" with jointer) with a cast iron base with 2" wheels.
The table saw is dead on, as you can see the insert I cut out to use a Dado blade, I'll eventually find another insert for regular blade use but so far no pieces of scrap have went flying. Being a steel table I had to wet sand it with 400 when I traded for it and if I don't keep it waxed or someone sits a cold beverage on it I have to sand it down again.
The jointer has 1 blade off and it is a PITA to adjust and I really see no use for it. (yet)
Each axle has a foot pedal that drops the frame down off the wheels, it doesn't move, usually I can just drop 1 axle. I need to make some guards especially on the motor/pulley and belt in the back. I really like the belt drive compared to the direct drive table I use to have, more forgiving, less vibration but my direct drive table was a cheap $100 craftsman.
don't you find too much splintering of the face veneer when cutting bevels finish side down - particularly on any cross-grain cuts?
Our sliding saw has a climb cutting scoring saw that eliminates tear out on the bottom side.
On the regular table saw you can set the blade so it just comes through the throat plate and climb cut the panel(that is back over the blade) to score the bottom side. Then raise the blade and cut forward...no splinters top or bottom.
NOTE if the blade is more then a tiny bit engaged in the wood on the scoring cut you stand a chance of loosing control and having the wood kick back at you. Be careful.
Evan
On the regular table saw you can set the blade so it just comes through the throat plate and climb cut the panel(that is back over the blade) to score the bottom side. Then raise the blade and cut forward...no splinters top or bottom.
NOTE if the blade is more then a tiny bit engaged in the wood on the scoring cut you stand a chance of loosing control and having the wood kick back at you. Be careful.
Evan
I guess my saw can't do what yours does, I have to have the good side up. Besides, you can always cut the bevel first and final dimension second. Yes the good side would have to be up, but that's how most of us do it, and it sure makes life easier. Having the fence on the left also means there is no problem if you have a little slip upward as you can simply recut it, unlike on the other side where you now have to cut another piece.
yes it is, very easy to make extremely small adjustments. I had to bust my **** for a day cleaning a basement for the saw and a 1.5 HP motor with long shafts on both ends I use for buffing. Only 8" but it cuts way better then the $100 ryobi 10" table saw I use to have.
I would buy another if I had a way to get it home and I could find one. That way I could leave the dado blade in one.
sometimes, it seems if I cut slower there is way less damage, big difference on the woods too. Harder the wood more splintering. A bigger table would help as most of my splintering happens in the last 2 inches when the wood starts to fall off the back. I've compensated by cutting the wood longer then trimming off an inch, those pieces become bracing along with the 45 scrap.
My woodworking skills suck bad. I haven't cut 2 45's that match up perfectly let alone 4 edges. I have a lock mitre bit in a router table but I can't seem to get it dialed in. I'm getting closer, once that is dead on my boxes will no longer have a seem down every edge.
My dad use to score wood with a razor blade, my problem is I haven't took the time to figure that part out.
I adjust my height to where the carbide teeth just clear and I go easy. The only time I have experienced kick back was on some scarfy yellow pine I was cutting up to burn on my ryobi and pushing hard.
Those old saws are awesome. Now just find a comparable left tilt tool, I'm not kidding, and your life will simplify once you find room for it. I have a right tilt unisaw, 50s vintage, to the left of a left tilt portable, Makita at the moment, dropped into a wide table attached to the old Delta. So when a bevel rip is called for I do it on the Makita, and bevel crosscuts happen on the Delta. With the Grizzly sliding table though other arrangements also work. If only one saw will fit your space I recommend left tilt unless you are left handed. Never forget that these things are carnivorous.
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