Hello everyone. MY FIRST POST! Yes, i've been lurking and lurking, but never really asked any questions.....so here goes.
I have 2 Yorkie LS608's and i replaced the drivers with these http://prvaudio.com/pdf/18SW3000.pdf. Wasn't really happy with the low end of the factory made ls608 and thought the PRV sub might change that. BOY, was i wrong. I realized there is wayyyyy more i have to learn first before i just plop a driver into a box. Here is what i'm looking for, if anyone can help. I like the th18 design. But looking for the sub low (30hzish) kind of response. So, would BR, FLH, TH(my fav) or anything else anyone can recommend suit my needs? Any response is appreciated and i can't start to understand how Hornresp works. lol. Thanks in advance for any input.
I am a mobile dj. Hip Hop, Reggae and Pop. Loud and clear, but on a budget is what i'm hoping to achieve. (hence TH being my fav
)
I have 2 Yorkie LS608's and i replaced the drivers with these http://prvaudio.com/pdf/18SW3000.pdf. Wasn't really happy with the low end of the factory made ls608 and thought the PRV sub might change that. BOY, was i wrong. I realized there is wayyyyy more i have to learn first before i just plop a driver into a box. Here is what i'm looking for, if anyone can help. I like the th18 design. But looking for the sub low (30hzish) kind of response. So, would BR, FLH, TH(my fav) or anything else anyone can recommend suit my needs? Any response is appreciated and i can't start to understand how Hornresp works. lol. Thanks in advance for any input.
I am a mobile dj. Hip Hop, Reggae and Pop. Loud and clear, but on a budget is what i'm hoping to achieve. (hence TH being my fav
Hello everyone. MY FIRST POST! Yes, i've been lurking and lurking, but never really asked any questions.....so here goes.
I have 2 Yorkie LS608's and i replaced the drivers with these http://prvaudio.com/pdf/18SW3000.pdf...
Hi walmiki77,
Her are some single folded Sim. examples using the PRV Driver:
b🙂
Attachments
Val, you made a post asking for help. And you didn't even wait 1 day.
Plenty of threads are starTed every day based on hours if not days of work and research, and they still don't get any responses.
Limited xmax.... doesn't bode well for a th.
Plenty of threads are starTed every day based on hours if not days of work and research, and they still don't get any responses.
Limited xmax.... doesn't bode well for a th.
I think people were biting their tongues - resisting the temptation to say things they'll have to apologize for later.
You could try it in the Xoc1. But the further your parameters are from the original PD1850 driver the "lumpier" the response is going to be. Drop an unknown driver into a box and it doesn't always work out. A simplified Hornresp sim is in the thread somewhere - plug in your #'s before you buy lumber. You really should before you buy drivers, but that ship has sailed. The PRV doesn't have any more limited x-max than say, the PZB100, which has been used in it successfully. You just won't get SW115 SPL.
You could try it in the Xoc1. But the further your parameters are from the original PD1850 driver the "lumpier" the response is going to be. Drop an unknown driver into a box and it doesn't always work out. A simplified Hornresp sim is in the thread somewhere - plug in your #'s before you buy lumber. You really should before you buy drivers, but that ship has sailed. The PRV doesn't have any more limited x-max than say, the PZB100, which has been used in it successfully. You just won't get SW115 SPL.
Thanks for responding, after i left a derogatory remark.
Even with the "V" over the driver (version 2 of the th18) will the sub i have not suffice? Like i said, i still have a lot to learn about this, and would appreciate the help in any form. Thanks again for the replies.
Even with the "V" over the driver (version 2 of the th18) will the sub i have not suffice? Like i said, i still have a lot to learn about this, and would appreciate the help in any form. Thanks again for the replies.
step 1.
Download hornresp
Step 2:
read everything you can about it. "hornresp for dum....er everyone" on hometheatershack, lilmikes tapped horn tutorial on avs forum. soho54s folding with sketchup tutorial on avs forum, the xoc1 th18 thread, the ss15 thread, and anything written by tom danley.
Step 3:
enter your driver parameters into hornresp
Step 4:
copy any designs you can find into hornresp (xoc1, Keystone, Othorn, jbell ss18, etc), check your driver vs the premium driver options.
Download hornresp
Step 2:
read everything you can about it. "hornresp for dum....er everyone" on hometheatershack, lilmikes tapped horn tutorial on avs forum. soho54s folding with sketchup tutorial on avs forum, the xoc1 th18 thread, the ss15 thread, and anything written by tom danley.
Step 3:
enter your driver parameters into hornresp
Step 4:
copy any designs you can find into hornresp (xoc1, Keystone, Othorn, jbell ss18, etc), check your driver vs the premium driver options.
I wouldn't know offhand - I don't have Hornresp on this computer (or I'd be spending all my time doing vapor sims). Take this as your opportunity to download it and start learning/playing with it. If you have a woofer tester, I'd verify the T/S parameters. I've seen several sets of numbers that are inconsistent with each other on PRV's spec sheets. The initial spec on the 21" had me peeing in my pants, but now it's ho-hum, the B&C's are better even at $100 more.
The cone corrected version only makes a real difference if you're pushing the envelope of SPL. For only a 8mm x-max driver I'd just build V1. But then again if you were ever planning an upgrade you may want the improved design. It's a little harder to build, and I don't think an official cut sheet was ever created - there are a few things you have to work out for yourself.
The cone corrected version only makes a real difference if you're pushing the envelope of SPL. For only a 8mm x-max driver I'd just build V1. But then again if you were ever planning an upgrade you may want the improved design. It's a little harder to build, and I don't think an official cut sheet was ever created - there are a few things you have to work out for yourself.
step 1.
Download hornresp
Step 2:
read everything you can about it. "hornresp for dum....er everyone" on hometheatershack, lilmikes tapped horn tutorial on avs forum. soho54s folding with sketchup tutorial on avs forum, the xoc1 th18 thread, the ss15 thread, and anything written by tom danley.
Step 3:
enter your driver parameters into hornresp
Step 4:
copy any designs you can find into hornresp (xoc1, Keystone, Othorn, jbell ss18, etc), check your driver vs the premium driver options.
Thanks for the info sine143. Looks like i'm in for some long nights.
it appears the xoc1 design yeilds only 3db of additional output over a vented box less than half the size for your driver.
I wouldn't know offhand - I don't have Hornresp on this computer (or I'd be spending all my time doing vapor sims). Take this as your opportunity to download it and start learning/playing with it. If you have a woofer tester, I'd verify the T/S parameters. I've seen several sets of numbers that are inconsistent with each other on PRV's spec sheets. The initial spec on the 21" had me peeing in my pants, but now it's ho-hum, the B&C's are better even at $100 more.
The cone corrected version only makes a real difference if you're pushing the envelope of SPL. For only a 8mm x-max driver I'd just build V1. But then again if you were ever planning an upgrade you may want the improved design. It's a little harder to build, and I don't think an official cut sheet was ever created - there are a few things you have to work out for yourself.
I just downloaded Hornresp and Sine143 suggested i familiarize myself with it. I don't have a subwoofer tester, (i am a complete novice) so i cannot confirm the T/S parameters. I hope PRV has no reason to lie about it.
Thanks, Val.
So should i forget the whole TH thing then. I happened to visit Danley in Ga. earlier this year and fell head over heels with their products all over again. Many moons ago i was at the Southstreet Seaport and there was some Servodrives doing some work. I was impressed. So needless to say, i am a fanboy of Tom Danley's work now for quite some time. Thanks again for your help Sine143.it appears the xoc1 design yeilds only 3db of additional output over a vented box less than half the size for your driver.
Val.
True for just about any driver that works properly in it. 100dB 1m/2.83V vs. 97 vented. You want that 3dB through a bigger box or the meter on the light pole? Up to the builder to decide.
My responses seem to take a little longer than yours do. (both of you)
So is it not worth doing the th18?
So is it not worth doing the th18?
They have pdf plans on their website. Check there for the sun you have.
Thanks Ivan.
So I guess my bottom line here is I'm stuck with some subs that can't go into the 30's unless I build an enclosure the size of the empire state building. Correct?
So I guess my bottom line here is I'm stuck with some subs that can't go into the 30's unless I build an enclosure the size of the empire state building. Correct?
Yup. Physics are physics.
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