Hello all,
First, thanks to everyone for this amazing source of knowledge and experience in the audiophile field. I'm a long time reader of those threads but it's the first time I start one. So here is my question :
Has anyone ever heard about making ports for vented enclosures with real wood?
The entire enclosure is made of american walnut. I would make the ports with the same wood (I'd laminate several pieces together, cut a 2-inch hole in the center then finish the exterior on the wood lathe). Of course, I would try as much as possible to smooth the inside and flare the edges to reduce air turbulences.
My question is : will it increrase port resonance due to the properties of natural wood? What thickness woud be considered enough to tame those resonances? (The port dimensions will be 2" wide X 8 3/8" long)
While I'm aware that MDF or birch veneer are much more stable than real wood, I wanted to make this project with walnut since the speakers are intended to play mostly some folk, acoustic-like music in a small room at reasonable levels.
Thanks for your time! 🙂
First, thanks to everyone for this amazing source of knowledge and experience in the audiophile field. I'm a long time reader of those threads but it's the first time I start one. So here is my question :
Has anyone ever heard about making ports for vented enclosures with real wood?
The entire enclosure is made of american walnut. I would make the ports with the same wood (I'd laminate several pieces together, cut a 2-inch hole in the center then finish the exterior on the wood lathe). Of course, I would try as much as possible to smooth the inside and flare the edges to reduce air turbulences.
My question is : will it increrase port resonance due to the properties of natural wood? What thickness woud be considered enough to tame those resonances? (The port dimensions will be 2" wide X 8 3/8" long)
While I'm aware that MDF or birch veneer are much more stable than real wood, I wanted to make this project with walnut since the speakers are intended to play mostly some folk, acoustic-like music in a small room at reasonable levels.
Thanks for your time! 🙂
It'll work just as well as MDF/plywood/whatever in terms of acoustics.
With natural wood construction, there's always the risk of humidity/temperature changes causing the wood to deform, which can reduce a cabinet to firewood.
Chris
With natural wood construction, there's always the risk of humidity/temperature changes causing the wood to deform, which can reduce a cabinet to firewood.
Chris
I presume you are meaning resonance of the wood from which the port tunnel is constructed, as the port resonance itself depends on the mass of the air in the port.
I don't see the use of natural wood being a problem, other than its propensity to deform or crack over time.
I thought so! I just don't see resonance of the wood from which the port is constructed being a problem.
Better to concentrate on controlling the resonances in the american walnut enclosure itself. 😉
Better to concentrate on controlling the resonances in the american walnut enclosure itself. 😉
Indeed! I thought that proper bracing and a little of polyfill would help with the enclosure's possible issues. Am I doing right?
Yes, and you may also like to consider sticking a vibration damping material such as Dedsheet to the internal enclosure walls.
Dedsheet anti-drumming, vibration damping sheet
Dedsheet anti-drumming, vibration damping sheet
I my opinion making the port from solid wood is a huge waste of time.
If you are worried about air turbulence buy a bigger port.
I think the best cheap option is to use a port made from thick cardboard. Sure you could make some good looking flared thingys from wood - on both end of the port.
If you are worried about air turbulence buy a bigger port.
I think the best cheap option is to use a port made from thick cardboard. Sure you could make some good looking flared thingys from wood - on both end of the port.
I'd skip putting anything on the walls that would impede the solids panel balance. You would also be wise to apply the same finish inside as outside. This will help with panel stability as the ports will allow atmospheric conditions into the enclosure. Consider rectangular shaped ports. They can be applied to the backside of the baffle and the front of the baffle (at the port) can be flared.
That was also my thought, make a slot port and then run a radius router around the front edge to give a nice finish.
Not sure about what "properties" you talk about.
*All* a tuning port tube does is provide walls to enclose air inside so its mass can resonate with cabinet air elasticity and resonate at a certain frequency, nothing else.
So only parameter that matters is stiffness.
Printing paper would be too weak, but both cardboard and plastic tubes have proven successful, so any type of wood, be it natural, MDF, plywoof, chipboard, etc. will be way more than enough.
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