Hi all,
is anyone using car-sound deadening materials in home construction to reduce vibrations?
I am talking about stuff like "Dynamat", "Noico" and many others, self adhesive material.
I have an interior basement wall that vibrates a lot due to HT subwoofer.
The wall is build of 1/8" panelling (the 70's style old house) on 6" studs.
It is a sound pressure created vibration, not direct transfer from the sub.
I have access to the wall from both sides and can get to the panels from the inside. I'd prefer not to change the panelling to drywall, hence my question about sound/vibration deadening materials.
Thanks in advance!
is anyone using car-sound deadening materials in home construction to reduce vibrations?
I am talking about stuff like "Dynamat", "Noico" and many others, self adhesive material.
I have an interior basement wall that vibrates a lot due to HT subwoofer.
The wall is build of 1/8" panelling (the 70's style old house) on 6" studs.
It is a sound pressure created vibration, not direct transfer from the sub.
I have access to the wall from both sides and can get to the panels from the inside. I'd prefer not to change the panelling to drywall, hence my question about sound/vibration deadening materials.
Thanks in advance!
Thanks, nails are popping out after a while. I added plenty of small screws. The panels are tight to the studs, they vibrate between studs.
Hard to believe at only 6" apart, but if so, then mass seems to be the only option.
Perhaps pieces of 2x4 nailed horizontally to the panels and studs in strategic places,
to prevent a resonance in the vertical dimension.
Perhaps pieces of 2x4 nailed horizontally to the panels and studs in strategic places,
to prevent a resonance in the vertical dimension.
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It will be very costly. I would just add another layer of drywall behind current panel. Or glue the stripe of drywall between the stud from the back. It can be a messy job though (a lot of dust).
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Mat just adds mass. It does not dampen much, just lowers the resonant frequency.
I would go from the back side and glue 5/8 sheetrock to the back of the paneling. It does not need to be a perfect fit. That way you don't have to touch the room facing side. You could even add some blocking, but I doubt that would be much help.
I would go from the back side and glue 5/8 sheetrock to the back of the paneling. It does not need to be a perfect fit. That way you don't have to touch the room facing side. You could even add some blocking, but I doubt that would be much help.
Thanks Rayma,
the studs are 2" x 6" spaced 16" apart. 2x4 nailed horizontally in few places might be the best solution I hear so far.
If you can get most of the air out of the inside wall space it should decrease the pressure gradient driving the issue. Can expandable foam be injected?
Otherwise open baffle bass might be a solution for the wall issue.
Otherwise open baffle bass might be a solution for the wall issue.
The nails coming loose is an important clue. Could be humidity changes or the panels flopping around. likely both considering the panels are 1/8", they are located in a basement and partition for a HT setup with a presumably capable sub. Putting random extra blocking behind the panels is not likely to work at all and probably will make it worse. You need stiffer panels and something less susceptible to movement due to moisture. Drywall is the least expensive good option.
I agree, the price of brand name dyna mat is very expensive.
Adding cross braces / blocking could help.
Basically the wall will always be resonant, its just a large surface with a low frequency.
adding mass will raise the resonate frequency.
Not much different than speaker cabinet walls, you either add braces, or increase the wall thickness.....or both
When you flex a long panel, the most amount of flex is the middle.
So middle would be good place to start
Ironically in construction very basic " blocking" or fire blocking cross braces
added to walls are in the center staggered around 4 feet.
for more structure support they use cross braces or add K braces to the fire blocking
I would brace the centers, if not enough add K braces from the centers.
Adding cross braces / blocking could help.
Basically the wall will always be resonant, its just a large surface with a low frequency.
adding mass will raise the resonate frequency.
Not much different than speaker cabinet walls, you either add braces, or increase the wall thickness.....or both
When you flex a long panel, the most amount of flex is the middle.
So middle would be good place to start
Ironically in construction very basic " blocking" or fire blocking cross braces
added to walls are in the center staggered around 4 feet.
for more structure support they use cross braces or add K braces to the fire blocking
I would brace the centers, if not enough add K braces from the centers.
Any sound you hear from a wall constructed like the one in question is going to be the skin flapping against the studs. With such a thin flexible wood based membrane it is almost unavoidable. The problem here is the attachment of the membrane to the supports. I think the OP was on the right track when he tried screws but mechanical fasteners will work loose over time as the panels expand and contract or as in this case, bend excessively under pressure. The suggestions for blocking make perfect sense in the case of a relatively small surface like a speaker cabinet but don’t work well when you apply them to something on the scale of a wall.
Lower it actually.
1/8" is just really thin. I wouldn't put Dynamat or whatever, I agree it's expensive. I'd probably go along with @tvrgeek and mount sheetrock on the back side. But all the way side to side, don't just put something vertically down the middle, now you'll have more mass in the middle to vibrate. You could look here www.cascadeaudio.com for antivibration goop to put in between, don't know if there's an antivibration glue though.
Silicon caulk in the joints between layers?
Or wood polymer composite, provided it does not snow in the area..
Best would be car floor type felt, and a supporting rigid sheet, drywall or anything suitable for outdoor use, even corrugated sheet would work. The two layers should take away a lot of the resonance.
Or aluminum composite panels.
If you do not need outside access, fill the cavity on the outer side of the building with sand or earth.
Or wood polymer composite, provided it does not snow in the area..
Best would be car floor type felt, and a supporting rigid sheet, drywall or anything suitable for outdoor use, even corrugated sheet would work. The two layers should take away a lot of the resonance.
Or aluminum composite panels.
If you do not need outside access, fill the cavity on the outer side of the building with sand or earth.
Yeah I get it...
I ment adding mass or raise frequency .....as in bracing.
Bracing will raise resonant frequency.
Once you raise resonant frequency above 500 Hz even at high decibels there isn't enough air pressure. To vibrate things.
mass lowers, tension raises.
When we practice as kids in garage, garage always near kitchen wall. I can find resonate frequency
of you moms dish cabinet with bass guitar.
Having numerous party houses with subwoofer, play Bass house music.
Wall vibrates, can find sweet spot by standing against wall pressing with your butt lol to stop vibration. Shove couch or bookshelf there.
Another funny story, old Victorian houses downtown have bad cockroach problem. We rented friends
basement for band practice. All roaches gone after 2 weeks. They hate vibration.
just find sweet spot in wall, nail it, brace it, fill with foam , shove couch there, bookshelf , carpet, carpet pad
whatever. usually not whole wall. always sweet spot. Bass house music with subwoofer. easy to find.
Maybe easier with test signal if you dont like bass house LOL
I ment adding mass or raise frequency .....as in bracing.
Bracing will raise resonant frequency.
Once you raise resonant frequency above 500 Hz even at high decibels there isn't enough air pressure. To vibrate things.
mass lowers, tension raises.
When we practice as kids in garage, garage always near kitchen wall. I can find resonate frequency
of you moms dish cabinet with bass guitar.
Having numerous party houses with subwoofer, play Bass house music.
Wall vibrates, can find sweet spot by standing against wall pressing with your butt lol to stop vibration. Shove couch or bookshelf there.
Another funny story, old Victorian houses downtown have bad cockroach problem. We rented friends
basement for band practice. All roaches gone after 2 weeks. They hate vibration.
just find sweet spot in wall, nail it, brace it, fill with foam , shove couch there, bookshelf , carpet, carpet pad
whatever. usually not whole wall. always sweet spot. Bass house music with subwoofer. easy to find.
Maybe easier with test signal if you dont like bass house LOL
When contractors retro fit older apartments to soundproof from neighbors.
They usually treat only shared wall.
They add second layer of sheetrock, but yes between layers they sandwich with sound deadening caulk.
Popular brand name sound deadening caulk is " Green Glue"
For people or owners with more money or higher budget, they do same thing extra layer of sheetrock
but sandwich a layer of very heavy vinyl. Very heavy more labor.. work better though.
usually called MLV vinyl.
Another extra step is to wrap electric outlets on shared wall with clay, so is very air tight.
We use bricks here, and now aerated concrete blocks, as the quality of bricks is bad.
Most new structures are steel reinforced cement slab and beams, with partition walls, which are not load bearing.
Horrible in terms of acoustic damping and absorption.
Maybe some fire retarding foam material can be used in place of heavy vinyl? Vinyl foam boards?
Most new structures are steel reinforced cement slab and beams, with partition walls, which are not load bearing.
Horrible in terms of acoustic damping and absorption.
Maybe some fire retarding foam material can be used in place of heavy vinyl? Vinyl foam boards?