How to turn on amp without remote and power switch?
I have an Audio Innovations ALTO Mk2 amp, I do not have the remote and the amplifier does not have a power switch, any ideas on how I can turn on the amp? are there remotes that can be program to work on any remote controlled device?
I have an Audio Innovations ALTO Mk2 amp, I do not have the remote and the amplifier does not have a power switch, any ideas on how I can turn on the amp? are there remotes that can be program to work on any remote controlled device?
The amp does not have a physical switch, it can only be turned on using a remote which I do not have
As i said, there are remote sockets with a remote.
Edit my bad. Read that wrong. You can opet, and wire directly. Post images here so people can direct you.
Another option is universal remote if you can't find original on hifishark and the likes of it.
Edit my bad. Read that wrong. You can opet, and wire directly. Post images here so people can direct you.
Another option is universal remote if you can't find original on hifishark and the likes of it.
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Even if I plugged the unit directly to the wall, it will not turn on as there is no physical switch on the amp
No luck finding one in hifishark
No luck finding one in hifishark
I have used programmable remotes in past for brands like Sony, where the codes are already in the remote. Does the programmable remote have a way to power up a unit for brands that are not main stream?
There are universal remotes you program to the specific device by pressing programming button and press the button until it finds the channel your amp responds to. No need for codes.
This is diyaudio. I would open the amp, drill a hole, bypass the computer board, and install a mains voltage rated power switch. Take the hot feed off the fuse or breaker, load side. Use safety glasses using power tools. Don't touch metal inside the amp with the cord plugged in.
Or buy this very repairable used Peavey PV-4c amp from ebay for $170. https://www.ebay.com/itm/234685617347?hash=item36a45a54c3:g:tRwAAOSwanVjDRnL&amdata=enc:AQAHAAAA4JafxU5y+15xD4DW9HIKfOwwhzeru3plBLZ26UU96U8W0bt9VPxEKRxB5HcJndE9rxAyHsFSV7YX+AQRizEG7WKLmo6D3LJPEV3UHHzcL7IFiv9W1QZnhiLHB9gDI251ByutaP4rpBHYDz3WYI4sLq/ZlFEkB84hZBPoHY2oe8tirIA48/DLEQlv6Yc1XVv8tsahB1sMM77ZjZp0Qw8FKN9gLeUV8thlhkadScvZ6UOUSGP5nI9j8dwO5i1yKEGT7o+aqh1anTpqnvaVUR0Yl4gtEuMPD2RnzoTA53lI6B82|tkp:BFBMgvDowP1g Probably works out of the box but will ususlly need new rail caps to reach rated power.
Or buy this very repairable used Peavey PV-4c amp from ebay for $170. https://www.ebay.com/itm/234685617347?hash=item36a45a54c3:g:tRwAAOSwanVjDRnL&amdata=enc:AQAHAAAA4JafxU5y+15xD4DW9HIKfOwwhzeru3plBLZ26UU96U8W0bt9VPxEKRxB5HcJndE9rxAyHsFSV7YX+AQRizEG7WKLmo6D3LJPEV3UHHzcL7IFiv9W1QZnhiLHB9gDI251ByutaP4rpBHYDz3WYI4sLq/ZlFEkB84hZBPoHY2oe8tirIA48/DLEQlv6Yc1XVv8tsahB1sMM77ZjZp0Qw8FKN9gLeUV8thlhkadScvZ6UOUSGP5nI9j8dwO5i1yKEGT7o+aqh1anTpqnvaVUR0Yl4gtEuMPD2RnzoTA53lI6B82|tkp:BFBMgvDowP1g Probably works out of the box but will ususlly need new rail caps to reach rated power.
Very cheap way but might not work ,
https://www.amazon.com/Automatic-Et...1-04b81a398c91&ref_=pd_gwm_ci_mcx_mr_hp_atf_m
https://www.amazon.com/Automatic-Et...1-04b81a398c91&ref_=pd_gwm_ci_mcx_mr_hp_atf_m
You could try to desolder the relay on the primary side of the power transformer and solder a wire in its place to emulate a excited relay. Unlikely to work on modern electronics, may work fine on this analog vintage gear.
Cambus is a communication protocol for advanced digital systems. Can be proprietary. Nobody has broken into the cambus equipped bafang bike motor controllers to change the parameters yet.
Remotes for entertainment equipment have specific carrier frequencies. Ergo, the hand held device needs to be the same freq as the one in the equipment. If they match, the turn on code can be discovered by trial and error.
Remote control module receivers operate at a variety of carrier frequencies (typically in the 30 to 60kHz range). Units with a dual lens provide a higher degree and wider range of sensitivity. The small size and (typical) surface mount design make them ideal for embedding in numerous applications. Lead frame versions are also offered. Units with an integrated photo IC have improved anti-noise characteristics. Typical applications include: • Audio Visual devices such as audio amplifiers, TVs, VCRs, and CD/DVD/MD players • Multimedia equipment • Home appliances such as air conditioners, fans, and lighting products • CATV set top boxes • Toys • Any equipment with a wireless remote control
I have a couple Pillips "smart" aka "green" aka master-slave power bars that I use to slave lights off the TV. I did find that some TV's draw power all the time and don't work well with them. But I can't find them on the internet anymore so maybe Pillips gave up selling them. The "Automatic Vacuum Switch for Power Tools" in post #11 is similar but only has one slave output. There are DIY circuits on the web.
1) I wouldn´t have bought it, even new and with the full complement of accessories, go figure.
Being functionalist/minimalist at heart I love simple elegant design and dislike "wonder stuff" done just for the heck of it.
2)that said, you are stuck with it; so .... let´s try to help.
3) no matter what fairy dust is sprinkled on it, we still need a power transformer which will have a primary, a mains cable or socket bringing 120/240V in, and something to join/separate them at will.
I see a toroid with blue/brown wires going from it towards the IEC socket, which presumably are primary wires, plus an IEC socket, plus a black relay to its left.
I even see a small diode under it, which might be across its coil.
I presume said relay does the heavy duty connecting/disconnecting.
Follow/trace that area to confirm it.
4) when you are 250% certain about what you have there (hint, it´s dangerous/deadly mains voltage present, an error can be a short across mains wiring, you may connect live mains to chassis, etc.) you can permanently bridge needed relay contacts with a short piece of wire so amp is permanently ON and then use a switched outlet, remote or physically controlled, to tun amp ON/OFF as suggested above by brijac.
Or plug it into an extension mains strip with its own switch.
That is the least amp modding path, involves no drilling holes for a switch, messing with relay coils, etc.
I much suspect chassis/case material is dreaded ZAMAK , a cheesy unstable product, avoid messing with it.
Unless it´s .... plastic 🙄 that is.
