I'm planning to replace a snap-on spring-clip speaker terminal(picture attached) with binding posts. Do I just simply desolder the spring-clip terminal and then with jumper wires connect the in/out points on the PCB to the relevant binding posts? Reason for asking is that when I looked at the metal connectors on the back of the terminal, each one is connected separately to the PCB. However, when I checked, with continuity by a multi-voltage meter, each insert hole with the solder points on the PCB, it showed that the +ve and -ve are connected, which had me confused because with binding post terminals, they are separated from each other and should be not connected. So, I may be ignorant of the spring-clip terminal construction or there is something I should pay attention to for such replacement. I'd appreciate any advice. Thanks.
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If you are using the ohms setting, tell us the resistance readings between + and -.
It should be a simple substitution, as you suggest.
It should be a simple substitution, as you suggest.
Hi Galu. I used the ohm setting to check and readings are as follows:
Input Output
R+/L+ 2.23 R+/L+ 2.23
R-/L- 117.8 R-/L- 117.8
R+/R- 1.18 R+/R- 1.18
L+/L- 1.16 L+/L- 1.16
I've attached a picture of the spring-clip terminal to show more information and would elaborate on what "continuity" meant in my previous thread. With continuity test I did, R+ of In & Out, R- of In & Out, L- of In & Out, and L+ of In & Out are all "closed". If this is normal for such circuit, then I think I can just simply substitute the spring-clip with binding posts.
Input Output
R+/L+ 2.23 R+/L+ 2.23
R-/L- 117.8 R-/L- 117.8
R+/R- 1.18 R+/R- 1.18
L+/L- 1.16 L+/L- 1.16
I've attached a picture of the spring-clip terminal to show more information and would elaborate on what "continuity" meant in my previous thread. With continuity test I did, R+ of In & Out, R- of In & Out, L- of In & Out, and L+ of In & Out are all "closed". If this is normal for such circuit, then I think I can just simply substitute the spring-clip with binding posts.
I'm a tad confused by your readings and description, however...
Each individual spring clip appears to have two prongs for strength of connection to the circuit board and which are electrically in common.
I think it is safe to say that you simply take connections to each of your four binding posts from each of the following four locations you have indicated on the circuit board:
R+ Out; R- Out and L-Out; L+Out
Each individual spring clip appears to have two prongs for strength of connection to the circuit board and which are electrically in common.
I think it is safe to say that you simply take connections to each of your four binding posts from each of the following four locations you have indicated on the circuit board:
R+ Out; R- Out and L-Out; L+Out
Me too confused with the readings and ins & outs.
Is this a sub or amp ?
Well ... my JBL sub uses a 200uF capacitor between Inputs and outputs. Check.
For an amp, there should be a speaker selection switch on the front side.
Is this a sub or amp ?
Well ... my JBL sub uses a 200uF capacitor between Inputs and outputs. Check.
For an amp, there should be a speaker selection switch on the front side.
2 sets of spring terminals means they are wired to the switch on the front. You need to trace back from that.
I’d (i also did) wire direct from the power amp output to a single se tof good posts and lose the A, B, A=B speaker switch.
dave
I’d (i also did) wire direct from the power amp output to a single se tof good posts and lose the A, B, A=B speaker switch.
dave
Must be A and B terminal sets, spring clips for input are a bit unusual.
And next to the outputs, even more so.
Please check again, as Dave says above.
And next to the outputs, even more so.
Please check again, as Dave says above.
Thanks for the response. The terminal connector is the speaker IN/OUT of a Velodyne subwoofer. I believe I can simply connect the four (or eight for in & out) locations on the PCB to the relevant binding posts. It's just that I'm curious why the R+ OUT and R- IN, and same for L+/L-, when tested for continuity they are "closed".
"Continuity" is for trailer-light mechanics. VERY simple systems.
Electronics technicians can read numbers. How many ohms do you see?
Short the meter leads, see what it says, rarely zero.
Adjust your reading for that.
We get LED continuity testers, AA or button cells, LED, cord, probes.
Handy for testing continuity...they even make speakers crackle.
Cost is about 50 cents...
Useful for stuff like this.
A random image from the net, no ties to seller.
Adjust your reading for that.
We get LED continuity testers, AA or button cells, LED, cord, probes.
Handy for testing continuity...they even make speakers crackle.
Cost is about 50 cents...
Useful for stuff like this.
A random image from the net, no ties to seller.
This is Velodyne SPL-10 speaker level input schematic:
There is a 470Ω resistor (R10 and R11) across R+ and R-, L+ and L-. Your ohm reading should be about 470Ω.
There also two 100Ω (R51 and R52) connected to R- and L-. Your reading should be about 200Ω.
If your subwoofer does not features high pass filter, the speaker level input and output will be paralleled. That explains why your meter got same ohm readings for input and output.
Check your circuit board and see what are those resistors value.