Getting a new ride and I know i will want to trade out the speakers.
First, I need to get the car. But after that, I am curious how the car measures with a mic
I don't know how much room I have for parts.
I think it would be cool to toss in a tiny scanspeak Be dome. The one with a low FS has been on my radar for some time.
This might work if it fits. I like the idea of a sealed mid for a car door's odd shape.
The front door speaker and the dash tweeter are wired together in a series. So a 16ohm mid would work with the scanspeak if I understand things correctly.
My preference is to not swap out any wires or the stereo. There is a front/rear fade and bass EQ so if I put a bass woofer in back that should help me set a level. The XO is the part I need to design and this is my first passive speaker.
First, I need to get the car. But after that, I am curious how the car measures with a mic
I don't know how much room I have for parts.
I think it would be cool to toss in a tiny scanspeak Be dome. The one with a low FS has been on my radar for some time.
This might work if it fits. I like the idea of a sealed mid for a car door's odd shape.
The front door speaker and the dash tweeter are wired together in a series. So a 16ohm mid would work with the scanspeak if I understand things correctly.
My preference is to not swap out any wires or the stereo. There is a front/rear fade and bass EQ so if I put a bass woofer in back that should help me set a level. The XO is the part I need to design and this is my first passive speaker.
To get some idea of the frequency response of the system, you may need to ask on a Subaru forum for your vehicle.
It's very unlikely that a full range speaker and a tweeter will be wired in series. They are likely connected in parallel if they are driven by the same amp channel.
Are you adding this to the system or replacing the door speaker with this?
All you need for a crossover is a capacitor. This probably isn't a good option because the OEM amplifier will be able to produce much less power into 16 ohms. The efficiency is high but maybe not high enough.
This 1670 driver won't produce much below midrange frequencies so you may have a large hole in the frequency response if you're replacing the door speaker with the 1670 and your woofer is a subwoofer.
Crutchfield can tell you what fits and you may be able to use the dimensions of those speakers to get an idea whether the 1670 will fit (if it's going into the OEM location).
It's very unlikely that a full range speaker and a tweeter will be wired in series. They are likely connected in parallel if they are driven by the same amp channel.
Are you adding this to the system or replacing the door speaker with this?
All you need for a crossover is a capacitor. This probably isn't a good option because the OEM amplifier will be able to produce much less power into 16 ohms. The efficiency is high but maybe not high enough.
This 1670 driver won't produce much below midrange frequencies so you may have a large hole in the frequency response if you're replacing the door speaker with the 1670 and your woofer is a subwoofer.
Crutchfield can tell you what fits and you may be able to use the dimensions of those speakers to get an idea whether the 1670 will fit (if it's going into the OEM location).
Thanks. Yeah, you are correct. Ok, one wrong turn prevented! I don't know where I read it wrong.
Back to square one on mids. There is an 8ohm sealed PHL so maybe it is still an option
My hope was I could use a low fs 6.5" in the back of the car with an XO to blend to the PHL sealed mid.
It seems many use coaxials in the front and back with a tweeter on the dash.
Coaxials are a good option but you MUST listen to them in person with the music that you intend to listen to. Many sound awful. The 'listening in person' suggestion applies to virtually every mids/highs speaker. The few exceptions are for the more expensive brands (Focal, etc...) that almost universally have good ratings by those who have them.
The 6.5" woofer CAN make good bass but unless you have a perfect enclosure for your vehicle and likely 4 or more, don't expect much deep bass. I never really used small woofers but the Tangband seem to have a good following for cheap woofers. If you have deep pockets, you can get high-performance 6.5" woofers but they will require a significant amount of amp power. A good quality 12" and a moderate amount of power (you can buy 1500W of class D power for less than 200W) is generally a better option. Look at dyno runs for cheap class D amps on youtube.
I don't know how much you want to spend or what you expect from the system so it's difficult to be very specific.
The 6.5" woofer CAN make good bass but unless you have a perfect enclosure for your vehicle and likely 4 or more, don't expect much deep bass. I never really used small woofers but the Tangband seem to have a good following for cheap woofers. If you have deep pockets, you can get high-performance 6.5" woofers but they will require a significant amount of amp power. A good quality 12" and a moderate amount of power (you can buy 1500W of class D power for less than 200W) is generally a better option. Look at dyno runs for cheap class D amps on youtube.
I don't know how much you want to spend or what you expect from the system so it's difficult to be very specific.
Yeah, it seems like the EZ choice. But I would like to apply some of what I like in home audio to the car. I tend to prefer separate drivers that don't interfere with each other. A small coax cannot play 2-3khz in a clean way. A tiny number of coaxes are even designed as a waveguide. Many just chew tweeter frequencies. It will be neat to see a car decay vs a room decay.
Sage advise. I use a 15" woofer for LF at home and have a 10" for my desk. I kinda want to see how the car plays with a couple nice 6.5" and then add a sub if needed. The sub needs an amp and this is a little more work to pull off vs just swapping out 6 drivers.
Me neither. Around $1500 on drivers seems to be the first guess. The front has space for a 6"X9" but I think I will just do a 6.5" in the front and back.
Since I do not want to replace the head unit, I am trying to use very efficient drivers.
Does the system have an amplifier between the head unit and the OEM speakers?
There are/were good quality separates that had kits to mount the tweeter in the center of the 6.5" driver. Again, you have to listen to any drivers that you are considering.
There are/were good quality separates that had kits to mount the tweeter in the center of the 6.5" driver. Again, you have to listen to any drivers that you are considering.
No. I can't even find the specs. There are 4 amps inside the head unit- 2 front and 2 rear. I assume it is just a few watts.
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This is what the paper tweeter in the car looks like:
And this is the "high-end" harmon kardon version. The version I have looks pretty much the same with no star shape or dots.
It does look like car tweeters try to limit the off-axis a little but this observation is based on a sample of 2 extreme car tweeters. The foam ring is used to seal the tweeter to the dash. The woofers do the same.
I am curious about introducing delay with a passive network. I know it is not ideal but wonder what a sim will say. My guts says "DSP!DSP!DSP!".
My last dsp XO used a LR8 on a woofer and a LR4 on a tweeter to make a GD hump inside the XO. This caused the XO to fill in. But I never thought to use it to delay this way.
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I think you're going to have to be more specific in what you want and ask specific questions to get definitive answers. At this point (for me), there are too many variables.