Possibly crossover but also be very careful as the pole can slip on the magnet of the NS1000 woofer in transit and cause it to crush the voice coil.
Here's the ns1000m schematic ( from Troels Gravesen ).
My guess ( as to the problem that you describe ) is that the capacitor ( 94uF ) in the LF section needs replacing.
- Two, 47uF ( paralleled ) bi-polar e-caps will give the 94uF if you can't find a single 94uF bi-polar electrolytic.
🙂
Thanks Arez and jkB77,
Finally found two mid driver is cracked not woofer problems. How can I fix this ?
It coil is already burn ?
Best regard
Finally found two mid driver is cracked not woofer problems. How can I fix this ?
It coil is already burn ?
Best regard
You may be in a situation where you're better-off picking & fitting two new but different midrange drivers.
The fact that you have midrange level controls means you may have a greater selection choice.
From the information in the following video, you may actually end-up with better sound.
The fact that you have midrange level controls means you may have a greater selection choice.
From the information in the following video, you may actually end-up with better sound.
If the midranges are cracked, you won't be able to replace them 🙁 Beryllium is a CONTACT POISON.
That youTube video is obviously from a 21st century punk who doesn't believe da old guys could design good speakers.
If you have a pair in good condition, keep one in original condition to compare with your efforts to 'improve' it. You need to be able to conduct proper DBLTs to hear how good these are compared to 'modern' stuff.
Have they got faults? ALL speakers do. But in nearly 2 decades of DBLTs, we only kept 2 competitors speakers over the whole period to compare with ours in DBLTs. The NS1000 s were one of them.
That youTube video is obviously from a 21st century punk who doesn't believe da old guys could design good speakers.
If you have a pair in good condition, keep one in original condition to compare with your efforts to 'improve' it. You need to be able to conduct proper DBLTs to hear how good these are compared to 'modern' stuff.
Have they got faults? ALL speakers do. But in nearly 2 decades of DBLTs, we only kept 2 competitors speakers over the whole period to compare with ours in DBLTs. The NS1000 s were one of them.
If the midranges are cracked, you won't be able to replace them 🙁 Beryllium is a CONTACT POISON.
Again the irrational fear of Beryllium. Seriously all the plastic you eat every day, along with all the posions and carcinogens in most food, is the biggest threat to your health in form of poison generally. And this you willingly indulge in every day🙄
Not touching a BE diaphragm 🤣
BE is poisonous sure, but you need to inhale BE dust or eat it for it to be dangerous.
Materions BE foil that almost everyone uses theses days, is so ductile it wont shatter, so no risk of dust even.
That is also why Radian/VUE/Augspruger, eighteensound, JBl etc. Compression driver falls off a cliff at 14-16 khz, due to less stiffness compared to Vapor deposited diaphragms like TAD,Yamaha etc.
So unless you intend to eat them (materion foil) your fear is irrational really.
Again the irrational fear of Beryllium. Seriously all the plastic you eat every day, along with all the posions and carcinogens in most food, is the biggest threat to your health in form of poison generally. And this you willingly indulge in every day🙄
Not touching a BE diaphragm 🤣
BE is poisonous sure, but you need to inhale BE dust or eat it for it to be dangerous.
Materions BE foil that almost everyone uses theses days, is so ductile it wont shatter, so no risk of dust even.
That is also why Radian/VUE/Augspruger, eighteensound, JBl etc. Compression driver falls off a cliff at 14-16 khz, due to less stiffness compared to Vapor deposited diaphragms like TAD,Yamaha etc.
So unless you intend to eat them (materion foil) your fear is irrational really.
What is this Materions BE foil? Are you claiming NS1000 diaphragms are made from this? Those diaphragms are VERY brittle.
We've done experimental units with BE domes in the 90s and the manufacturers have severe safety warnings ... especially about the BE oxide dust that you invariably get if a diaphragm shatters.
Not sure how your post helps Myint67
On this 'TOXIC' subject, it is worth considering & knowing that the Tar & Asphalt of 'first world' roads IS carcinogenic.
Of more interest would be for some people to suggest/recommend possible replacements for NS-1000 midranges.
I would be very interested in the responses 🙂
Yes, and that is rather common knowledge i would hope.
And so is just about all the additives in your food bought from stores. And all the tiny plastic pieces we eat every day, and so on.
There is a reason why cancer has become so widespread.
It's what is used as Beryllium diaphragms from almost all producers except TAD/Pioneer and the old Japanese ones like Yamaha.
Wether it's a Scan speak tweeter, or a 4" compression driver diaphragm.
And yes the old Yamahas are vapour deposited and will shatter. So don't sniff them while they do.
Beryllium oxide is toxic. Not beryllium as a solid metal, it is safe to touch actually.
Even seen Ben Presccott at B&C lick them 🤣
Ditto.
As there is no reason one can't replace old diaphragms, just use common sense and basic protective equipment, mask/gloves. Wash your hands after.
If that is the solution one wants.
Also can be sent to someone that replaces diaphragms for a living.
Simple old fashioned thermometers are also dangerous, yet i don't see anyone afraid of them. Or anyone drinking the mercury.
Basic fire detectors have radioactive materials inside them, usually Americium-241. Again most people do not devour them so It is a non issue.
Your remote controls, flashlights and a myriad of other every day items have beryllium copper in the battery terminals, again...
Hifishark, Ebay, Yahoo auctions Japan etc. Will find you original replacement drivers if you look, that is the easy answer.
Finding a new dome assembly is much more difficult, and often more expensive.
Also fragile and easy to destroy if you don't know what you are doing.
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🙂
from Wikipedia " In air, the surface of beryllium oxidizes readily at room temperature to form a passivation layer 1–10 nm thick that protects it from further oxidation and corrosion. "
Please 🙂
Wikipedia is correct, and so is what i wrote🙃
The oxide is the toxic part, then you need to make it into dust and get it into your lungs or digestive system, in a large enough amount for it to be toxic.
It behaves as other typical metals, aluminium has the exact same behavior, the outer layer will oxidize when in contact with air, why it gets brushed and put oxide inhibitor on, when used as a electrical conductor.
Crack the diaphragm, then the tiny edges that was a whole surface before, will oxidize when in contact with air, and create new oxides.
So don't scrape Beryllium diaphragm dust and sniff it, like some people do with other substances in powdery form 🙃
This is why i'm stating that your fear of Beryllium is not a huge concern.
Berylliosis is almost exlusively a issue for people that work with processing the material.
Not us "audiofools" that have them in a speaker diaphragm.
Very much like asbestos and other nasty substances too.
Thanks to Arez for putting our WHS concerns into context and recommending the correct protective gear.
.. back to the original query ...
I think it's worthwhile trying to get original NS1000 midranges to keep Old Man Tanaka-sans's design in its original form.
If you want to use different ones, you are redesigning them from scratch.
Addendum : Just read Troel's page ...
Midrange needs to be 93dB/2.83V @ 1m over 500Hz to 4.5kHz + 'do well' with 500W 😱
.. back to the original query ...
I think it's worthwhile trying to get original NS1000 midranges to keep Old Man Tanaka-sans's design in its original form.
If you want to use different ones, you are redesigning them from scratch.
- Keep the box and bass unit cos that's one of the best bits
- IIRC, Troels has taken one apart which will tell you what frequency range you want for a replacement midrange
- sensitivity should be more than 90dB/2.83V @ 1m in that range.
- Try and get a diaphragm about the same size to keep its directivity characteristics
- though the label says 50W, originals can take full advantage of (ie sound better) with up to 500W / channel
- there are enough pseudo gurus here who will tell you how to get better results than the original 🙂
- Don't tell any Yamaha speaker engineers you are doing this cos Tanaka is still revered in Japan for NS1000 😱
Addendum : Just read Troel's page ...
Midrange needs to be 93dB/2.83V @ 1m over 500Hz to 4.5kHz + 'do well' with 500W 😱
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You can find matched pairs taken from oher NS-1000Ms, they cone up on eBay quite often. To identify a matched pair, note the code other than “JA-0801” is identical between the two drivers. Even mismatches can sometimes be close, but it requires measuring. They did vary over the years of production.
I don’t follow the claim in your post. A more sensitive midrange, like this one, requires less power for same output, not more. Much over 100W dynamic power is beyond the thermal capability of these drivers - the coils are wound on cellulose formers, which are thermally insulating.
If I have missed the point of your post then please correct me.
This isn't about 'Power Handling' which is only 50W according to Yamaha. It's about whether the speaker sounds better with more power. Mostly about compression. Some very 'high power' speakers don't really benefit from higher power cos they compress.
Of course if you don't make your own recordings and only play compressed pop stuff, this won't matter.
All the more reason to try and get genuine Yamaha Be mids 🙂
I now see what you mean. 🍷 It’s an interesting behavior of these drivers that they don’t noticeably compress or distort at high levels. I think that might be partially due to the envelope of linearity given the hyper-paraboloid suspension profile, and, where the tweeter has no coil former and the midrange uses a non-metallic former, neither are influenced by eddy-currents.
I’m very skeptical of a "reviewer" who tests long time stored speakers without a re-bedding in process of a least a couple of hundred hours and who makes dramatic criticisms and changes based on those. Then to ask nearly $1000 to put them “right” shows a possible condflict of interests. After 200 hours they will sound nothing like they did initially, with no mods at all, then clean the pots, change rear connectors first and go from there.
The measurements shows the factory response, wether played for 1 or 200 hours. There is no major changes due to playing them. Phase, linearity and cancellations does not magically disappear, because you use them for some hours 🙄
Not that i believe in most of what he pushes in terms of "fancy components", but that is partly what he makes his living off of, so to be expected.
Arez.
Are you sure that is the case? If so I apologise, but the plots that he's showing have the date 8-22-2023. How do you think they compare to the http://www.troelsgravesen.dk/Yamaha-NS1000.htm measurements? I would have thought that the best way forward is to bed them in, take measurements and then refine from there. Otherwise what is one working with?
Are you sure that is the case? If so I apologise, but the plots that he's showing have the date 8-22-2023. How do you think they compare to the http://www.troelsgravesen.dk/Yamaha-NS1000.htm measurements? I would have thought that the best way forward is to bed them in, take measurements and then refine from there. Otherwise what is one working with?