Reading about anodized aluminum, it has a porous oxide layer.
I’ve seen anodized aluminum in commercial settings take on finger prints and discoloration. Should the surface of custom audio equipment be coated to prevent similar discoloration, or, is it not needed and can it perhaps be cleaned with special solvents?
I’ve seen anodized aluminum in commercial settings take on finger prints and discoloration. Should the surface of custom audio equipment be coated to prevent similar discoloration, or, is it not needed and can it perhaps be cleaned with special solvents?
You could probably spray it with diluted poly clear coat. Try it on a small test area first perhaps.
The anodising is the protective coating and I would not put a coating over it. Never had in issue with any gear and any finger prints etc can be removed with some water with detergent. Solvents are a no go as can remove panel labels.
I haven’t put any text labels/transfers on the aluminum yet. That’s another facet I need to investigate.
Lazer engraving! Please, teach me your ways. Was this done by a shop or your own lazer engraver?
If done well it is not so poreus. And should also be treated with a ptfe as sealer. But costs.
Anodized and painted myself but engraving made by my friend.I had repair his lazer engraving machine many times.
Anodizing creates pores but a common commercial technique (I have used it myself) is to afterwards boil anodized parts on plain water, no additives needed.
This thickens the oxide layer, to the point pores get sealed, go figure.
Of course, it is a cheap but slow process (a couple hours) and ties shop space and tanks, so shops in general skip it.
For a clear coat I suggest a two component Polyurethane, way tougher than any evaporation dried paint.
Also suggest a thin diluted layer, but of this much harder kind.
There is a similar coat designed for cars.
We call it "TRI capa", literally "three layer".
I mean the last outside layer.
Don't apply it yourself, it's expensive and what you mix you must dispose of in a couple hours, instead visite your friendly car body/paint mechanic and ask for a quick "third layer" spray.
Carry a sixpack or a couple wine bottles with you and "forget" them over the counter.
Next time you will be most welcome 😄
This thickens the oxide layer, to the point pores get sealed, go figure.
Of course, it is a cheap but slow process (a couple hours) and ties shop space and tanks, so shops in general skip it.
For a clear coat I suggest a two component Polyurethane, way tougher than any evaporation dried paint.
Also suggest a thin diluted layer, but of this much harder kind.
There is a similar coat designed for cars.
We call it "TRI capa", literally "three layer".
I mean the last outside layer.
Don't apply it yourself, it's expensive and what you mix you must dispose of in a couple hours, instead visite your friendly car body/paint mechanic and ask for a quick "third layer" spray.
Carry a sixpack or a couple wine bottles with you and "forget" them over the counter.
Next time you will be most welcome 😄
Cerakote MC-5100. We use it on semi truck fuel tanks after polishing them. It can be applied with any cheap low pressure gun, indestructible.
https://www.cerakote.com/shop/cerakote-coating/MC-5100/cerakote-clear-aluminum