The etx amp is more like a 500w RMS 1500 peak.
Manufacturers like to inflate specs with peak values, like the SPL ratings are peak. So too look more powerfull than the rest in the same category.
Let us know how it goes, if the driver is new it is recommended that you run some 20hz signal with the driver not in the cab, run for 3 or 4 hours , then install in your EV cabinet.
Not Shure if the BC drivers came ready to install or you need to do the break in procedure.
The volume control setting does not indicate the input drive level.
The input 1 meter displays input level in dBu.
An input signal above +18dBu will clip (over drive) the input.
Many mixers are capable of +28dBu, yours may be clipping the ETX18SP input by 11dB or more.
A mixer driven hard can put out clipped waveforms with much higher average power than the signal going in.
Most higher powered speakers will have less output per watt than the stock drivers.
There is no doubt you could get higher powered drivers, but they still may not survive if the input stage is hard clipped with low crest factor low frequency signal.
Keep an eye on the input meter and the peak limit indicators, if they indicate drive signal above +18dBu, you probably need to add another pair of speakers to get the SPL you want.
Art
Can't believe EV burnt their hard won quality perception by labelling those cheap Chinese "mystery" speakers as such.
Small magnet, stamped frame, compare it to the cast frame huge magnet Celestion standing by it .
B&C, 18 Sound, Faital, Beyma and similar PRO speakers are leagues above.
Small magnet, stamped frame, compare it to the cast frame huge magnet Celestion standing by it .
B&C, 18 Sound, Faital, Beyma and similar PRO speakers are leagues above.
The powered version of these boxes(which I also own) have proven to be reliable and very good performers.. and they do not live an easy life, they get ridden hard by DJs right into almost constant limiting for 5-6hr events without a hickup. I'd agree with you on the general appearance of the driver though. I would have hoped to see something more substantial but these are the times we live in and end of the day this combo seems work. With the passive boxes I can get similar performance with a rack amp that produces 700w rms, so the claimed 1300w rating for these is peak I would think.
The driver in the ETX18 is more substantial.. the DVX-3180a doesn't look half bad but from everything I have gathered the amp module has a real 1000-1200w rms output with peaks at 2500w, and I have personally seen these get into thermal limiting pretty quickly.. something I have never seen with my EKX boxes so I'm not sure this combo is entirely happy.
Have you tested or can test and EKX vs ETX box side to side with REW, it puzzle me that according to what you said the EKX is better DSP provisioned and the driver matched better.
Still it can be the same low quality driver or even less but the DSP settings can break or make the deal.
Still it can be the same low quality driver or even less but the DSP settings can break or make the deal.
The ETX and EKX lines are totally different, the ETX18 enclosure is quite a bit larger and is tuned lower than the EKX18 and the amp modules and processing is also different of course. To give you an idea the ETX15 sub is about the same size as the EKX18 and those two have similar output but the EKX has a bit more thump feel likely due to the larger diaphram. I have had those 2 side by side for comparison but never had an opportunity to do any testing.
Yeah I get it, is like JBL SRX vs PRX..or Yamaha DZR vs DXR
Just wondering if you have done some comparison with a mic and REW, cause maybe EKX is better value if the difference is not worth the money between it and his bigger brother
Just wondering if you have done some comparison with a mic and REW, cause maybe EKX is better value if the difference is not worth the money between it and his bigger brother
I like the EKX18 better for 3 reasons..
1. Size... I can lift and move the EKX18's by myself, the ETX18 is just too big and heavy to do that.
2. Cost.. The ETX costs significantly more in my market.
2. Cooling... For some reason the ETX amp modules don't have a cooling fan but the EKX modules do. It didn't take long after these were released that I began to hear reports of ETX subs getting into thermal limiting and reducing output, and as mentioned earlier I witnessed this myself the few times I used them. This wont help the driver cool but I don't see the logic of not having forced air cooling on an amp that will be driven hard for extended periods of time.
I have had no trouble at all with my powered EKX subs so that combined with the above points and for me they are the sweet spot in the lineup. They certainly aren't the baddest sub out there but they are decent performers and represent good return on investment.
1. Size... I can lift and move the EKX18's by myself, the ETX18 is just too big and heavy to do that.
2. Cost.. The ETX costs significantly more in my market.
2. Cooling... For some reason the ETX amp modules don't have a cooling fan but the EKX modules do. It didn't take long after these were released that I began to hear reports of ETX subs getting into thermal limiting and reducing output, and as mentioned earlier I witnessed this myself the few times I used them. This wont help the driver cool but I don't see the logic of not having forced air cooling on an amp that will be driven hard for extended periods of time.
I have had no trouble at all with my powered EKX subs so that combined with the above points and for me they are the sweet spot in the lineup. They certainly aren't the baddest sub out there but they are decent performers and represent good return on investment.
Update - I installed the B&P 18 inch driver, working very well. So much better quality than the paper EV cone. Definitely looks like a more reliable speaker. Thank all of you for the assistance here. I didn't want to spend 280.00 on the same driver to have it shred again. Ill keep you guys in the loop here but hopefully this thread will help future EV owners to solve these issues. My las question here is "How long should I play the driver in a lower ramp up mode and how long should I get this driver exercised before just paying normal volume? I was told play at a 20% volume for 5 hours to get the driver worked in. Is this actually a thing?
LF driver breakin isn't really a thing in pro audio, the drivers are expected to go to work from the first power up and not die or see a significant change in performance when fully heated up, so let her rip. I won't tell you there is no change in performance as the suspension breaks in but it's not going to be significant.