Any tips? I've watched a couple of youtube videos. I dont have much experience soldering but it kind of looks like it would be good practice.
What plugs and cable do you recommend? I was thinking Neutrik plugs. Is there any point in going for something like Van Damme star quad cable or will that just makes the build a bit more tricky?
What plugs and cable do you recommend? I was thinking Neutrik plugs. Is there any point in going for something like Van Damme star quad cable or will that just makes the build a bit more tricky?
The idea of balanced cabling is that you just don't need excessivly expensive cables and shielding. A good Klotz or Sommer is probably better than what has been used for original recording, and anything more expensive than 2 GBP per meter is just for show and has no actual benefit.
For the plugs, Neutrik is top of the line. Very nice indeed. And after all not terrible expensive - so a 2m cable would be around 15-20GBP. However you could likely buy a premade cable for around the same price, no big savings there. Going with noname maybe down to a tenth of that price, less quality components, but actually no audible difference.
DIY advantage is to build to exact length, and you could select cable color or type or plug type.
For the plugs, Neutrik is top of the line. Very nice indeed. And after all not terrible expensive - so a 2m cable would be around 15-20GBP. However you could likely buy a premade cable for around the same price, no big savings there. Going with noname maybe down to a tenth of that price, less quality components, but actually no audible difference.
DIY advantage is to build to exact length, and you could select cable color or type or plug type.
I have been reading some reviews of really low cost cables on amazon and there are some reviews stating the connections didnt last long, were badly soldered etc. So I'd rather not chance the really budget pre-made ones as it looks like quality control and parts quality is not that good.
For example: https://www.amazon.co.uk/product-re...r&reviewerType=all_reviews#reviews-filter-bar
and the 3 star reviews one with pictures of the soldering: https://www.amazon.co.uk/product-re...e=all_reviews&pageNumber=1#reviews-filter-bar
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If you need few cables then there is little economical benefits to diy.
That said if you don't have experience in soldering and need practice, you want top quality parts and long lasting and repairable then diy is the way to go.
Neutrik, Mogami, Belden, Canare, Gotham,... are the brands i use when wiring studios ( pro). I'm a Mogami guy especially because of multipairs numbering and ease of stripping.
There is ways to make your cable reliable (wrt handling) longterm ( which can be an advantage in an audio enginneering school or for cables used in live context) but you won't usually need this at home.
Use a good soldering station ( i'm a Weller guy) with large tips for XLR it'll fasten the process. A third hand can be great too ( Panavise) but if you do cable occasionaly the expense can be too much.
For me it's mandatory... this one:
https://www.digikey.fr/fr/products/...uMyVyyClUAJakWqo1lgaAvL6EALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds
Be aware that if you are under ROHS legislation you can't use leaded solder. The non lead solder react differently and isn't shiny once soldering is done, rather mat looking. It's a pita to remove and it destroy tips quickly hence buy at least one or two spare if you have more than 100 solder points to do ( xlr size).
It's a good idea to have a sketch of connector numbering too when soldering ( pin 1/2/3, which wire go to which pin,...).
Starquad cables are a good idea if you are into an area where there is some EMI/RFI perturbation. If not then don't bother, it'll make things difficults if you are a beginner. But it's doable nonetheless ( last studio i wired used Mogami neglex starquad for mic cables. Over 50 to make. Took a bit longuer than what i was used but it was ok in the end).
You need pliers too. One straigth one curved. Like this one ( eg, for inspiration):
https://www.e44.com/outillage/outil...g/pince-fine-becs-demi-ronds-150mm-VT246.html
https://www.e44.com/outillage/outil...court/pince-becs-demi-ronds-coudes-VT255.html
And the thing to clean the tip, like this:
https://www.e44.com/outillage/souda...r/nettoyeur-panne-fer-souder-90mm-SUPNET.html
Heatshrink over connectors can be nice if you are confident in your soldering skills. If not then non shrinkable sheath cut to length and slided over connectors will do too. But with xlr it's luxury, the way the connectors are made render short circuit almost impossible to exist ( or you'll have a ripped off wire).
That said if you don't have experience in soldering and need practice, you want top quality parts and long lasting and repairable then diy is the way to go.
Neutrik, Mogami, Belden, Canare, Gotham,... are the brands i use when wiring studios ( pro). I'm a Mogami guy especially because of multipairs numbering and ease of stripping.
There is ways to make your cable reliable (wrt handling) longterm ( which can be an advantage in an audio enginneering school or for cables used in live context) but you won't usually need this at home.
Use a good soldering station ( i'm a Weller guy) with large tips for XLR it'll fasten the process. A third hand can be great too ( Panavise) but if you do cable occasionaly the expense can be too much.
For me it's mandatory... this one:
https://www.digikey.fr/fr/products/...uMyVyyClUAJakWqo1lgaAvL6EALw_wcB&gclsrc=aw.ds
Be aware that if you are under ROHS legislation you can't use leaded solder. The non lead solder react differently and isn't shiny once soldering is done, rather mat looking. It's a pita to remove and it destroy tips quickly hence buy at least one or two spare if you have more than 100 solder points to do ( xlr size).
It's a good idea to have a sketch of connector numbering too when soldering ( pin 1/2/3, which wire go to which pin,...).
Starquad cables are a good idea if you are into an area where there is some EMI/RFI perturbation. If not then don't bother, it'll make things difficults if you are a beginner. But it's doable nonetheless ( last studio i wired used Mogami neglex starquad for mic cables. Over 50 to make. Took a bit longuer than what i was used but it was ok in the end).
You need pliers too. One straigth one curved. Like this one ( eg, for inspiration):
https://www.e44.com/outillage/outil...g/pince-fine-becs-demi-ronds-150mm-VT246.html
https://www.e44.com/outillage/outil...court/pince-becs-demi-ronds-coudes-VT255.html
And the thing to clean the tip, like this:
https://www.e44.com/outillage/souda...r/nettoyeur-panne-fer-souder-90mm-SUPNET.html
Heatshrink over connectors can be nice if you are confident in your soldering skills. If not then non shrinkable sheath cut to length and slided over connectors will do too. But with xlr it's luxury, the way the connectors are made render short circuit almost impossible to exist ( or you'll have a ripped off wire).
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This is DIY and making your own cables is rewarding, and you'll practice soldering at the same time.
I'm a Klotz fan but any other brands mentioned above will work fine.
Buy genuine Neutrik, for there's quite a lot of fake connectors that look almost exactly the same.
Most are missing the Neutrik logo, so look out for that.
I'm a Klotz fan but any other brands mentioned above will work fine.
Buy genuine Neutrik, for there's quite a lot of fake connectors that look almost exactly the same.
Most are missing the Neutrik logo, so look out for that.
Can you explain the use of a starquad in a mono signal connection? I have worked with starquad but that only works if you have 2 separate pairs. When you use it as 2 pairs in parallel it just is a waste of cable.
Now starquad was abandoned as it provided less emi shielding than 2 good pairs and most of the effect is lost when you take the ends apart to connect. Helped only to 30Mhz anyway.
Honestly, those reviews are not that bad after all. But DIY will certainly make you more proud of your accomplisment 🙂
Forget Star-Quad for short runs like this.
Thank you for all the advice. I ended up going for these on ebay as it works out cheaper than I could make myself and it's the parts I would have chosen to use:
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/285346385992?var=587226913846
https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/285346385992?var=587226913846
I probably haven't read the thread title correctly as i thought we were talking 'balanced cable'? Or not after all i read it correctly... 😉
About why to use it and theory behind it:
https://www.soundonsound.com/sound-advice/q-whats-special-about-star-quad-cable
'Now starquad was abandoned' i wasn't aware... By who it was abandoned?
Afaik it's in use daily on any large format analog console on any continent as this is what is used to connect patchbay in serious facility...
https://mogamicable.com/category/bulk/patch/
As mic cables it's used in broadcast, remote recording van and live where issues with strong emited interferences happen ( light gradator/variator).
https://mogamicable.com/category/bulk/microphone/quad/
In live it's often used as loudspeakers cable given it offer a level of protection:
https://mogamicable.com/category/bulk/speaker_cable/conventional_configuration/
But who knows, maybe pro habits in your country are different than in mine? Hint: i know by first hand experience it's not... 😉
There is even use of it in multipairs, used in studio or 'snake/stage box'. Gotham offer a range for people ok to invest in snake oil. Lol.
I would practice soldering on junk PCBs and so forth, not on cables you are going to use. The best cables are crimped, not soldered, note, as crimps are reliable when done correctly. However crimp tools are not cheap (the one's that make reliable joints are not cheap!). Some XLR plugs are screw terms IIRC which is another possibility.
+1
👍 And gastight, just as also Neutrik states.
Not screw pins, but Neutrik crimping connectors. 😉
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I read the article long ago and it is correct up till the point where they use what is in fact a 2 pair cable as a single "pair with 2 times 2 wires" cable. As a 2 pairs cable it works fine because the distance between the wires of a single pair is kept very tight because of the construction. But if you wire it as a single pair then the theory goes out of the window. It is a case of not understanding electromagnetism, balanced working and mechanics.
It went out of use long a go as a wiring for data cabling because it is worse to connect than single pairs. This because it is not better than a good made twisted pair using only half the copper. this by measured performance in an EMC lab. And a simple twisted pairs is even easier and better performing to terminate. Probably audiophiles bought up the remaining stocks.
That's really cool. If I need another set I'll get those crimp ones and try them out.
Nobody on youtube seems to have done a video using the crimp connectors so if anyone likes doing videos like that it might be worth doing.
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I think I read that the original XLR design had screw terminals but Neutrik came along and improved on the design and ditched the screws.
Neutrik seem to make screw, crimp and solder versions, from a quick search - whether that's for all connectors or just plugs I'm not sure.
The crimp manufacturer's have such videos...