2 Way speakers - Suggestions on improvements?

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Very cool! 🙂 You can actually use these now in Xsim, at least as a dry run.

You won't get the absolutely correct DB levels, but it's completely worth while to get them in and find the driver distance and start simulating. 🙂

Best,


Erik
 
Well, no, you need the other two. 🙂 What you'll do is use the Woofer+Tweeter as your reference. You'll then import the tweeter and woofer into XSim, tie them together in the schematic and adjust the woofer distance until XSim matches your real Woofer+tweeter FR perfectly. That's when you know your distance is correct.

XSim also allows you to load a reference curve for the FR, so you can see the reference and simulated curves at the same time. It's practically child's play then to set the distance correctly. 🙂

Best,

Erik
 
Woofer no voltage limit 50db - Right Speaker
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Woofer no voltage limit 100db - Right Speaker
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Well, no, you need the other two. 🙂 What you'll do is use the Woofer+Tweeter as your reference. You'll then import the tweeter and woofer into XSim, tie them together in the schematic and adjust the woofer distance until XSim matches your real Woofer+tweeter FR perfectly. That's when you know your distance is correct.

XSim also allows you to load a reference curve for the FR, so you can see the reference and simulated curves at the same time. It's practically child's play then to set the distance correctly. 🙂

Best,

Erik
Okey, next stupid question, "distance"? 😛
 
Okey, next stupid question, "distance"? 😛

Haha. 😉 So, we are doing interferometry. That is, we are looking at how driver A interferes with Driver B (woofer = A, tweeter = B). That interference pattern or fingerprint changes as the relative distance of each driver changes.

Why do we care?

Well, in terms of time, the tweeter starts closer to your ear than the woofer. In a perfect world, that's not a problem. The woofer covers 20Hz to 3,000.00 Hz and the tweeter starts at 3,000.001 Hz and up.

In reality there's a lot of overlap. To make the simulation in XSim accurate, we must know the effective distance between the drivers to make sure they are dancing together through the overlap, and not fighting each other through it.

Look at your speakers from the side. The tweeter's magnet is probably only a couple of centimeters behind the baffle. The woofer's is probably around 3 to 5cm behind it.

Imagine that sound starts exactly at the front of that big magnet ring. You can see that even though the woofer and tweeter will get the same signal at the same time, the tweeter's signal will be advanced by about 2cm or more.

It will make more sense using XSim. You don't even need your measurements. Just put two drivers down, select "Tune" on one and add some distance to it. Your perfectly flat FR now goes to hell fast. 🙂


Best,


Erik
 
I meant, pick 1 speaker and add distance to it, leaving the other one alone.

Typically we select the tweeter to be our "reference" distance of 0, and all other drivers are delayed relative to it. However, I could imagine situations where this is not the case. We just do this for convenience until it no longer suits us.

Erik
 
I meant, pick 1 speaker and add distance to it, leaving the other one alone.

Typically we select the tweeter to be our "reference" distance of 0, and all other drivers are delayed relative to it. However, I could imagine situations where this is not the case. We just do this for convenience until it no longer suits us.

Erik
Okey, lets start with that atleast =)

I should ask, do you have bare floors? That's some very regular comb filtering effects, I'd expect it with hard floors or a middle to large room with bare walls.

Best,


Erik
Yes, i have bare floors and quite bare walls as well in this room 😛
 
Okey, lets start with that atleast =)


Yes, i have bare floors and quite bare walls as well in this room 😛

Yep, perfectly visible in the FR I'm seeing. We'll talk about that later, but you might want to consider a nice wall treatment opposite your TV. A big tapestry if not dedicated acoustic panels.

If you look at the FR, do you see the regular bumps and dips, that look like a comb? That's not your drivers, that's the room acoustics. Fixing the room makes that go away. It's too soon to get into this, but when you think your brain is full we'll blow you away again. 🙂

Best,


Erik
 
Yep, perfectly visible in the FR I'm seeing. We'll talk about that later, but you might want to consider a nice wall treatment opposite your TV. A big tapestry if not dedicated acoustic panels.

If you look at the FR, do you see the regular bumps and dips, that look like a comb? That's not your drivers, that's the room acoustics. Fixing the room makes that go away. It's too soon to get into this, but when you think your brain is full we'll blow you away again. 🙂

Best,


Erik
Ah, interesting! I can play around with some sheets on the walls to see what happens. On the opposit wall of the TV i have a big window so maby curtains would help?

I played a little with 2 elements in Xsim and adjusted mod delay on one and man the curves turns nasty quickley..
 
Ah, interesting! I can play around with some sheets on the walls to see what happens. On the opposit wall of the TV i have a big window so maby curtains would help?

I played a little with 2 elements in Xsim and adjusted mod delay on one and man the curves turns nasty quickley..

And that's why it's important to know this. 🙂

Once you have the raw per driver FR and know the driver distances you can simulate a crossover to very high level of accuracy and designing better than some mega-buck speaker makers.

Best,


Erik
 
Yes, curtains are great. There's a secret way to select curtains I will share only with you. This secret is passed down from master to one and only one disciple.

When you go shopping or looking for curtains, put your ear up to them. You will hear some curtains sound more silent than others. That's what you want. 🙂

You can do this experiment wiht a thick towel. Just bunch it up and put it next to, but not blocking your ear. That's acoustics! 🙂

Best,


Erik
 
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