Clearly a much easier, drop-in solution if you want to wade into the water more slowly.
Most of these amp modules are built fairly well, perhaps not with boutique caps, but they can be a real cost effective solution for many.Rick
That was just my reply to Struth's post. brlmat already replied. He's going with the blameless circuit posted earlier by Struth.
LDS-TR-2.pdf is the latest schematic. The only thing i have to point out is the value of R56. In the schematic it is 100 but Struth said in post 117 that it should be more like 1k. I need confirmation on this, Struth.
NOCLIP.pdf is the schematic for the anticlip circuit. I don't know about you, but i'd rather not use it... I'd buffer the input and compare it to the output by using some kind of comparator (what the hell? even an op amp would work). However, if you decide to use it, i'd recommend building it with the B part of the schematic.
When you connect it to the amp you just take the usual input filter out of the anticlip schematic and connect it to the two points signaled on the amp schematic as "to anti-clip circuit". Then, to connect the B schematic to the first one, you take out R22 and connect the to resulting leads to the left of the circuit above. Also, connect the VC points. I recommend putting both on the same board. Also, be careful as this requires a very clean power supply, around +-15v and is connected to the two arrows in the right part of the upper schematic.
I hope this helps.
NOCLIP.pdf is the schematic for the anticlip circuit. I don't know about you, but i'd rather not use it... I'd buffer the input and compare it to the output by using some kind of comparator (what the hell? even an op amp would work). However, if you decide to use it, i'd recommend building it with the B part of the schematic.
When you connect it to the amp you just take the usual input filter out of the anticlip schematic and connect it to the two points signaled on the amp schematic as "to anti-clip circuit". Then, to connect the B schematic to the first one, you take out R22 and connect the to resulting leads to the left of the circuit above. Also, connect the VC points. I recommend putting both on the same board. Also, be careful as this requires a very clean power supply, around +-15v and is connected to the two arrows in the right part of the upper schematic.
I hope this helps
.Hi guys! Mr. Alex answered my message. Unfortunatelly he can't do it because he is extremely busy with some projects he is ppaid for. He also said he might do it if he had a little free time but he doesn't guarantee anything. Therefore, I will ask by this way mr. Struth if he can make a layout.
Another option to consider...
Perhaps you can implement this "pure blameless" design on the Dx Blame MkIII boards? I haven't compared the two circuits to know if this is even feasible (and probably don't know enough about circuit design to know what I was comparing anyhow).
Just trying to apply a bit of lateral thinking in case it proves difficult to design and build the PCBs.
Perhaps you can implement this "pure blameless" design on the Dx Blame MkIII boards? I haven't compared the two circuits to know if this is even feasible (and probably don't know enough about circuit design to know what I was comparing anyhow).
Just trying to apply a bit of lateral thinking in case it proves difficult to design and build the PCBs.
It should be obvious that most of Destroyer-X's current designs are distinguished by being called "DX Blame". They are certainly not "blameless". If anyone has actually read Douglas Self's distortion articles or relevant book chapters, you would soon discover his specific meaning there. It demands that the amplifier design is finessed to the point where measureable distortion due to all the documented causes has been reduced to the lowest practical levels. i.e. it's blameless, as far as performance in audio systems is concerned. Most discrete amplifiers that we encounter have quite a bit of excess distortion to fatten up the sound, enhance imaging and details for subjective impact but not these blameless ones!
I think we had thoroughly confused brlmat earlier in the thread by referring to both types of amplifier at a similar point in the thread.
You could probably mess about with the build - add a little daughter board for the CCS transistor etc. if you were happy to do that because it could be a simple enough modification. Just be aware that DX's designs are not all the same and the DX boards won't be optimised for blameless qualities. That is mission-critical style layout quality and not likely something that any of us here could do with confidence.
Perhaps settling for something a little lesser in performance would do just as well. To uprate power to 250W, you'll have to make significant changes to components and layout anyway. Blame MkIII boards from Jim's Audio Store (Ebay) (DX-Blame-MK-III-PCB-authorized-version-/320794512395?) (note:links no longer work on Ebay) may be adaptable but it will be somewhat messy, I think. If you are hoping for finished boards, ready to go, I don't think you're going to find them on DIYaudio outside of a group buy or the standard "Honey Badger" design ('sticky' on the first page) which should be capable and is an excellent, modern design too. Don't underestimate the quality there.
I think we had thoroughly confused brlmat earlier in the thread by referring to both types of amplifier at a similar point in the thread.
You could probably mess about with the build - add a little daughter board for the CCS transistor etc. if you were happy to do that because it could be a simple enough modification. Just be aware that DX's designs are not all the same and the DX boards won't be optimised for blameless qualities. That is mission-critical style layout quality and not likely something that any of us here could do with confidence.
Perhaps settling for something a little lesser in performance would do just as well. To uprate power to 250W, you'll have to make significant changes to components and layout anyway. Blame MkIII boards from Jim's Audio Store (Ebay) (DX-Blame-MK-III-PCB-authorized-version-/320794512395?) (note:links no longer work on Ebay) may be adaptable but it will be somewhat messy, I think. If you are hoping for finished boards, ready to go, I don't think you're going to find them on DIYaudio outside of a group buy or the standard "Honey Badger" design ('sticky' on the first page) which should be capable and is an excellent, modern design too. Don't underestimate the quality there.
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Wowowowowow. I am confused right now. I want a rich sounding amp with lots of details, not a dull one. From what you said above, the blameless is more or less dull sounding, while others have much richer sound and better details. Also, by imaging you mean like instrumental separation like when you go to the opera and you can clearly hear which instrument is playing abd being able to only listen to it while others are playing too?
So, is blameless a rich sounding and detaiked amp? Is it detailed enought so that instrumental separation that I was talking abour occur?
So, is blameless a rich sounding and detaiked amp? Is it detailed enought so that instrumental separation that I was talking abour occur?
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