A 400W MH is a lot cooler than a 360W halo.....reason is that due to efficiency more light is produced, and less heat as a result....they both take in about the same engergy (well 40watts more) but the MH converts the energy more efficienly into light, and wastes less as heat. Heat is considered wasted energy.
Heat is considered wasted energy
I knew that, but was unsure if the 400watt MH would be cooler than the 360w Halo. I see what your saying. The Halogen is only about 10% efficient and the rest is heat. THe MH is about 30-40% efficient so more is light about 1/3 less is heat, makes sense!😀
Also I'm wondering is the light from a halo hotter than a MH, as the MH has a built in UV filter. THe light beam (its a track lighting spot light) from my Halogen is VERY hot! So should a beam of light from MH be cooler aswell due to less UV?😕
I knew that, but was unsure if the 400watt MH would be cooler than the 360w Halo. I see what your saying. The Halogen is only about 10% efficient and the rest is heat. THe MH is about 30-40% efficient so more is light about 1/3 less is heat, makes sense!😀
Also I'm wondering is the light from a halo hotter than a MH, as the MH has a built in UV filter. THe light beam (its a track lighting spot light) from my Halogen is VERY hot! So should a beam of light from MH be cooler aswell due to less UV?😕
IIRC Infared radiation is what we come to know as heat. This is why the halogen light is less efficient and thus, hotter. UV radiation will just fry your eyes and give you a nice tan, or skin cancer.
O.K., so does the MH emitt less IR than halogen, I'm taking it so as you said this is why its more efficient.
B) The UV emtitted isnt enuff to harm you from the MH due to the outer glass on bulb. Or shoudl I use some other filter after the light?
I dont want to get a tan while I watch a movie, prob. only tan one side of you anyhow LOL.
Thanks, your a big help...😀
B) The UV emtitted isnt enuff to harm you from the MH due to the outer glass on bulb. Or shoudl I use some other filter after the light?
I dont want to get a tan while I watch a movie, prob. only tan one side of you anyhow LOL.
Thanks, your a big help...😀
Allow me to step in briefly here - I'm also a Reef Tank Owner, and raise hard Corals, which need high quality, very bright light.
Halogen lights are incandescent lights - typical black body radiators. No matter how high the color temp is, a good deal of their radiation is in the infrared - heat.
A good Metal Halide light is an 'arc light' - a small vial of glass that's vaporized by the current going through it. It's not a black body per se, so the color temperature can be much higher with much less IR.
With a reef tank, we try and duplicate the crisp white of natural sunlight (shallow reefs) or the more 'blue' of deeper water. Red lights tend to make algae grow (some controversy over this, some people claim it's intensity not spectrum).
Anyway, the point here is that even Halogen lights are much much more yellow and have a lot more heat than even a bad Metal halide.
The color temperature of sunlight is around 5500K if I remember right, and a Halogen bulb is something like 3800. Regular incandescent is much more yellow.
Look at the lights inside a big store like Home Depot. Those are metal halide - compare that to the yellow color of the bulbs in the lighting aisle.
I believe you want a point source for a projector? Most MH bulbs are much much larger than point sources. A double ended HQI bulb might be better, but BE VERY CAREFULL some HQI bulbs do not have a silica glass envelope so they can have harmfull UV rays. Make sure your projector bulb is behind glass.
Oh, and btw, bulbs can and do explode. Another reason to have a bulb behind glass.
I built a pretty good enclosure for a 250w Ushio bulb; it's color temp is 10K, and looks like a crisp white daylight. I have some pictures of my DIY HQI light (yep, there too 😀 ) at:
Reef Central.org DIY MH Fixture
For a good lightning source check out this:
Hello Lights
it's where I got my ballasts - they have ballasts and the connectors / mogul sockets, as well as reflectors (probably don't need it but the spider light reflectors are VERY reflective aluminum).
Halogen lights are incandescent lights - typical black body radiators. No matter how high the color temp is, a good deal of their radiation is in the infrared - heat.
A good Metal Halide light is an 'arc light' - a small vial of glass that's vaporized by the current going through it. It's not a black body per se, so the color temperature can be much higher with much less IR.
With a reef tank, we try and duplicate the crisp white of natural sunlight (shallow reefs) or the more 'blue' of deeper water. Red lights tend to make algae grow (some controversy over this, some people claim it's intensity not spectrum).
Anyway, the point here is that even Halogen lights are much much more yellow and have a lot more heat than even a bad Metal halide.
The color temperature of sunlight is around 5500K if I remember right, and a Halogen bulb is something like 3800. Regular incandescent is much more yellow.
Look at the lights inside a big store like Home Depot. Those are metal halide - compare that to the yellow color of the bulbs in the lighting aisle.
I believe you want a point source for a projector? Most MH bulbs are much much larger than point sources. A double ended HQI bulb might be better, but BE VERY CAREFULL some HQI bulbs do not have a silica glass envelope so they can have harmfull UV rays. Make sure your projector bulb is behind glass.
Oh, and btw, bulbs can and do explode. Another reason to have a bulb behind glass.
I built a pretty good enclosure for a 250w Ushio bulb; it's color temp is 10K, and looks like a crisp white daylight. I have some pictures of my DIY HQI light (yep, there too 😀 ) at:
Reef Central.org DIY MH Fixture
For a good lightning source check out this:
Hello Lights
it's where I got my ballasts - they have ballasts and the connectors / mogul sockets, as well as reflectors (probably don't need it but the spider light reflectors are VERY reflective aluminum).
First thing I like to say is, I just won an auction for a Sharp QA1650 for only $135 which include S/H. Good deal huh 🙂 ! Now I'm waiting to receive all my 3 projection panel and an OHP to arrive next monday or tuesday. hehhehe😀 .
Thank a lot JGWINNER for recommending me an exzcellent website. I am definitely going to buy the reflector and bulb there. I don't know about the ballast though. Why does their MH 250watt cost $140 while www.aquaticlight.com have a different brand for only $76. Do you guy think all the feature justify the price differences. How much cooler, quieter, and efficient does a ARO ballast can be than an ordinary $75 ballast.
Last thing, does all MH Bulb including the HQI form running at 250watt produce around 20k lument?
Thank a lot JGWINNER for recommending me an exzcellent website. I am definitely going to buy the reflector and bulb there. I don't know about the ballast though. Why does their MH 250watt cost $140 while www.aquaticlight.com have a different brand for only $76. Do you guy think all the feature justify the price differences. How much cooler, quieter, and efficient does a ARO ballast can be than an ordinary $75 ballast.
Last thing, does all MH Bulb including the HQI form running at 250watt produce around 20k lument?
also another question. Am I question to many question?
I guess it is about time for me to start finding my own info 🙄 . Oh waite, you guy are my info source 😀 .
I really appreciate all yours input guys. Thank for making feel like belonging to a Man Support Group.
I guess it is about time for me to start finding my own info 🙄 . Oh waite, you guy are my info source 😀 .
I really appreciate all yours input guys. Thank for making feel like belonging to a Man Support Group.
Hi Eebasist,
This is going to make me sound like a total geek, but I find quite interesting the real relationship between IR, Visible and UV...
It is all quite elegant:
At lower frequencies (radio) light waves tend to cause electrons in metals to move within the metal lattice and resonate at certain frequencies - hence radio/tv aerials.
By microwave frequencies, the light wave also starts to affect atoms (including those within molecules) causing the individual components of the atom to vibrate against each other - with specific frequencies resonating with specific molecular bonds - hence the microwave oven "boils" water...
By IR frequencies, you are getting a combination of microwave effects and the excitation of electrons within the atom into higher levels - with a little ionization taking place. Overall, the "feeling" is of heat...
The visible range is a very narrow transition range where ionization begins to become significant compared to excitation. The chemicals in our eyes can be selectively be ionized by red, green and blue frequencies. All light that does not cause ionization is as effective at heating as IR. (The process of Ionization absorbs all the energythat would otherwise generate heat...)
By UV, ionization totally dominates, and there is not as much scope for differentiation of frequencies through selective ionization as in the visible band. Insects seem to like it though...
X Rays ionize everything, and Gamma Rays start to affect atomic nuclei...
Yes, I'm sad...
Bill.
This is going to make me sound like a total geek, but I find quite interesting the real relationship between IR, Visible and UV...
It is all quite elegant:
At lower frequencies (radio) light waves tend to cause electrons in metals to move within the metal lattice and resonate at certain frequencies - hence radio/tv aerials.
By microwave frequencies, the light wave also starts to affect atoms (including those within molecules) causing the individual components of the atom to vibrate against each other - with specific frequencies resonating with specific molecular bonds - hence the microwave oven "boils" water...
By IR frequencies, you are getting a combination of microwave effects and the excitation of electrons within the atom into higher levels - with a little ionization taking place. Overall, the "feeling" is of heat...
The visible range is a very narrow transition range where ionization begins to become significant compared to excitation. The chemicals in our eyes can be selectively be ionized by red, green and blue frequencies. All light that does not cause ionization is as effective at heating as IR. (The process of Ionization absorbs all the energythat would otherwise generate heat...)
By UV, ionization totally dominates, and there is not as much scope for differentiation of frequencies through selective ionization as in the visible band. Insects seem to like it though...
X Rays ionize everything, and Gamma Rays start to affect atomic nuclei...
Yes, I'm sad...
Bill.
The reason the Hello lights ballast is more expensive is that it's an eletronic ballast. The others are 'coil and core'. The big difference is heat - a coil and core ballast will get so hot you can't touch it. If it's in a cabinet, you have to have a fan on it.
Also, some metal halide bulbs will not light properly without the proper 'starter' or the right ballast. The HQI bulbs in particular use 'control gear' (European for 'Ballast'), and aren't directly translatable to something that runs on US 120v / 60Hz. If you get the ballast wrong, bulbs can either not light or explode. (Seriously).
Once it's lit a bulb burns, it burns, although the electronic ballast is a bit more efficient and the bulb will burn longer with the same color temp. (don't forget much cooler as well). All MH bulbs get 'yellower' as they get older. However, there's nothing wrong with a non - electronic ballast for the right bulb.
The name's John, btw 😀
Also, some metal halide bulbs will not light properly without the proper 'starter' or the right ballast. The HQI bulbs in particular use 'control gear' (European for 'Ballast'), and aren't directly translatable to something that runs on US 120v / 60Hz. If you get the ballast wrong, bulbs can either not light or explode. (Seriously).
Once it's lit a bulb burns, it burns, although the electronic ballast is a bit more efficient and the bulb will burn longer with the same color temp. (don't forget much cooler as well). All MH bulbs get 'yellower' as they get older. However, there's nothing wrong with a non - electronic ballast for the right bulb.
The name's John, btw 😀
Very good points about the dif. ballasts jgwinner!
Also, Mystircal333 I would like to add that the electronic ballasts are silent. Now the coil ballasts arent loud at say 150watts and so. But above 400watts and there is def. a hum you can hear. I'm sure the 1000watt MH ballast are little noisy. The electronic ones are quiet up to a much higher power, if they can make noise at all?
Look at persay, a flourecent residential lighting fixture. Now a older one with a starter (looks like a round metal fuse-but its not)would emit a hum if either a two big of watt bulb was used, it got old, bulb blew, cold temperatures beyond its rating. The electronic ballast flouresent lights are more commen today. I have on in my living room, silent. Instant start, no flicker. Now the one in the garage is a older one, hums, if its cold out flicker alot till it warms up etc. This is the comparison between ballasts and electronic voltage control (convert to needed DC volts and regulate, transistors, IC's and resistors) -not really a ballast by definition I dont think is it? Anyhow hope that helped to relate the dif. to you.
Electronic- Better but more $
Ballast/cap- (some igniter some not) cheaper, suficient
BUT, noisier (at high watts) and hotter.
I'm gonna have to say its really a personal preference thing...like what color car you want. LOL🙂
Also, Mystircal333 I would like to add that the electronic ballasts are silent. Now the coil ballasts arent loud at say 150watts and so. But above 400watts and there is def. a hum you can hear. I'm sure the 1000watt MH ballast are little noisy. The electronic ones are quiet up to a much higher power, if they can make noise at all?
Look at persay, a flourecent residential lighting fixture. Now a older one with a starter (looks like a round metal fuse-but its not)would emit a hum if either a two big of watt bulb was used, it got old, bulb blew, cold temperatures beyond its rating. The electronic ballast flouresent lights are more commen today. I have on in my living room, silent. Instant start, no flicker. Now the one in the garage is a older one, hums, if its cold out flicker alot till it warms up etc. This is the comparison between ballasts and electronic voltage control (convert to needed DC volts and regulate, transistors, IC's and resistors) -not really a ballast by definition I dont think is it? Anyhow hope that helped to relate the dif. to you.
Electronic- Better but more $
Ballast/cap- (some igniter some not) cheaper, suficient
BUT, noisier (at high watts) and hotter.
I'm gonna have to say its really a personal preference thing...like what color car you want. LOL🙂
Just got my Elmo OHP. Saddly as i expected, Elmo was not bright enought even for a 46" screen (only 3.5k lumen). I am about to swap out the old 360watt Halogen ballast for a 250watt MH ballast. Can anyone provide advice or headup on anything. Like whether i should go with an electronic or a magnetic ballast for a 250watt model (price different is $65).
Also, how should the OHP fan should be connected with the new ballast?
Just incase anyone wonder how good a Sharp QA1650 is, i was able to use Internet Explorer @800x600 using S-Video input (actual projected screen resolution is 640x4*0). Not bad i think.
Also, how should the OHP fan should be connected with the new ballast?
Just incase anyone wonder how good a Sharp QA1650 is, i was able to use Internet Explorer @800x600 using S-Video input (actual projected screen resolution is 640x4*0). Not bad i think.
Well, electronics is totally silent and runs cooler. Thats the advantage. BUT it costs about twice as much to buy. Thats the down side. So a normal ballast will do the job fine, be half as much $, and make very little noise at 250watts I'd say. It would be interesting if folks that had 250-400watts MH would comment on the ballast heat/noise so we know at what point it gets too audiable. Anyhow neither will be wrong or not work. Either one is a good choice. Its really up to you. Me I went with traditional ballast setup myself. I like to save $ whenever posible...
"only 3.5k lumen"
WoW, that shows ya, halogen isnt very good. It must not be quartz halogen then. Anyhow the 150watt MH I orderd is almost 4x that many lumens! Shows the dif. You will be way brighter with a 250watt MH that is for sure.😀
"only 3.5k lumen"
WoW, that shows ya, halogen isnt very good. It must not be quartz halogen then. Anyhow the 150watt MH I orderd is almost 4x that many lumens! Shows the dif. You will be way brighter with a 250watt MH that is for sure.😀
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