It sounds like you are going to build this. I thought you were thinking about it.
I like doing Sims, and I like measuring, and making x-overs for my speakers. I would not assume x-over part values from a sim will be within 20% of the actual value needed. What I'm getting at, is you will need to basically measure, and confirm everything in the x-over. Odds are high that where you think you need an .8mH coil, you may really need a 1.1mH. With that in mind, a few electrolytic caps will not hurt anything. Purchase extra parts, and possibly buy just enough for one speaker, and then when you reorder, you get more of the values you actually need. I do hope you plan to measure responses.
I like doing Sims, and I like measuring, and making x-overs for my speakers. I would not assume x-over part values from a sim will be within 20% of the actual value needed. What I'm getting at, is you will need to basically measure, and confirm everything in the x-over. Odds are high that where you think you need an .8mH coil, you may really need a 1.1mH. With that in mind, a few electrolytic caps will not hurt anything. Purchase extra parts, and possibly buy just enough for one speaker, and then when you reorder, you get more of the values you actually need. I do hope you plan to measure responses.
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ok, got it. ThanksHave a look at the price of a decent Mundorf Ecap or similar polar type capacitor for audio at the correct voltage level.. You can upgrade down the line, you may want to tweak things in the build, therefore personally I would stay away from exotic caps in the woofer circuit.
Just curious. How will you place these in the room? Close to walls? Pulled out four or five feet? On stands?
I would like very much to measure and fine tune. Unfortunately I have no instruments.It sounds like you are going to build this. I thought you were thinking about it.
I like doing Sims, and I like measuring, and making x-overs for my speakers. I would not assume x-over part values from a sim will be within 20% of the actual value needed. What I'm getting at, is you will need to basically measure, and confirm everything in the x-over. Odds are high that where you think you need an .8mH coil, you may really need a 1.1mH. With that in mind, a few electrolytic caps will not hurt anything. Purchase extra parts, and possibly buy just enough for one speaker, and then when you reorder, you get more of the values you actually need. I do hope you plan to measure responses.
I'm not sure I have enough budget to buy something... for sure not something professional or semi-pro.
I was looking to the Dayton Audio iMM-6C Calibrated.. but honestly I don't know if I can use for this job.
hehe... this is the painful question ...Just curious. How will you place these in the room? Close to walls? Pulled out four or five feet? On stands?
In this moment my old speakers are on top of the closet at 2,35m from the floor and very close to the ceil. They are at around 30cm from the wall.
The room is 4,75 m x 3,5 m and the 2 speakers are more or less in the corner od the long wall.
For the new speakers I have in mind to move them somewhere else... on the shelves... not sure...
A behringer ecm8000 mic and a cheap soundcard should do the job
https://www.thomann.de/it/behringer_ecm_8000.htm
https://www.thomann.de/it/esi_maya_22_usb.htm
Besides, if you have problems with speakers positioning, maybe a floorstander and/or just adding a sub are a better solution than a big monkey coffin.
https://www.thomann.de/it/behringer_ecm_8000.htm
https://www.thomann.de/it/esi_maya_22_usb.htm
Besides, if you have problems with speakers positioning, maybe a floorstander and/or just adding a sub are a better solution than a big monkey coffin.
https://www.artalabs.hr/AppNotes/LIMP_Tutorial_Version_2_4_English.pdf
I use this to measure impedance. I made a small amplifier with TDA2030A.
There are also USB microphones, for example UMIK-1, Dayton UMM-6 and similar.
I use this to measure impedance. I made a small amplifier with TDA2030A.
There are also USB microphones, for example UMIK-1, Dayton UMM-6 and similar.
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Of course. But the TS doesn’t want to go there.Besides, if you have problems with speakers positioning, maybe a floorstander and/or just adding a sub are a better solution than a big monkey coffin.
Yes, but don’t. Have a look here instead.There are also USB microphones, for example UMIK-1, Dayton UMM-6
Thanks, that's an interesting topic, I'll read it. I am a total amateur. 🙄
I have been using DIY Panasonic WM61A for more than 20 years. and Arta/Holmi Impulse. I bought a Daytom iMM-6 but haven't had any results with it on an Android phone. I plan to make a JIG for it to use with my DIY mic preamp.
A little measuring, then a little tuning by ear. In any case, better to have any measurement than none. 😁
I have been using DIY Panasonic WM61A for more than 20 years. and Arta/Holmi Impulse. I bought a Daytom iMM-6 but haven't had any results with it on an Android phone. I plan to make a JIG for it to use with my DIY mic preamp.
A little measuring, then a little tuning by ear. In any case, better to have any measurement than none. 😁
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Most of us are. I am for sure. Some of us go all the way though. Makes this forum worthwhile.I am a total amateur. 🙄
this is feasible... I think I will buy quite soon.A behringer ecm8000 mic and a cheap soundcard should do the job
https://www.thomann.de/it/behringer_ecm_8000.htm
https://www.thomann.de/it/esi_maya_22_usb.htm
Besides, if you have problems with speakers positioning, maybe a floorstander and/or just adding a sub are a better solution than a big monkey coffin.
thanks!
Looking at the last simulation, I started to think that I could increase the cabinet volume for the woofer and reduce the resonance frequency.
Something like 120L at 27Hz. This should reduce the cutoff frequency from 44Hz to 37Hz.
Wdyt? Does this make sense?
If so the idea would be to mantain the H = 63 cm and change W = 52 and D = 51 (external)
Something like 120L at 27Hz. This should reduce the cutoff frequency from 44Hz to 37Hz.
Wdyt? Does this make sense?
If so the idea would be to mantain the H = 63 cm and change W = 52 and D = 51 (external)
Everything comes at a cost (cit.)
BR 120L @28Hz -> you get better F3 and reduce the bump at frequencies lower than 100Hz and, considering that you will position the speakers in the corner, the last thing you need is a bump.
Sealed box 80L full stuffed, Qtc 0.71-> higher F3 but F10 is more or less the same, tighter and cleaner bass as you have better transient, smaller cabinet and less complicated to build.
BR 120L @28Hz -> you get better F3 and reduce the bump at frequencies lower than 100Hz and, considering that you will position the speakers in the corner, the last thing you need is a bump.
Sealed box 80L full stuffed, Qtc 0.71-> higher F3 but F10 is more or less the same, tighter and cleaner bass as you have better transient, smaller cabinet and less complicated to build.
For a sealed box, the cone escursion should be a problem... I think max volume to avoid break of the cone at 40W is 62L. Am I wrong?
More, it is not clear to me how a closed box can have same Fc of the vented one.
More, it is not clear to me how a closed box can have same Fc of the vented one.
Everything comes at a cost (cit.)
BR 120L @28Hz -> you get better F3 and reduce the bump at frequencies lower than 100Hz and, considering that you will position the speakers in the corner, the last thing you need is a bump.
View attachment 1451924
Sealed box 80L full stuffed, Qtc 0.71-> higher F3 but F10 is more or less the same, tighter and cleaner bass as you have better transient, smaller cabinet and less complicated to build.
View attachment 1451927
Sorry @shadowplay62 I didn't understand what you wrote.
Now it is clear... you mean that with a sealed box, even if the F3 is higher, the design is easier and the cabinet smaller.
Let's suppose that build a bigger cambinet is not a problem for me, what is in your opinion the best option
WxHxD 38x63x45 -> 70L fc = 32Hz
WxHxD 52x63x51 -> 120L fc = 28Hz
That's not a big room. How loud do you want to play music? Are you using the speakers for HT as well?
Usually the volume is quite low... let's say around 1W
I'm just trying to improve low frequecy results... but probably between 40Hz and 34Hz there are no big difference to justify a volume 50L bigger.
Just for my curiosity, did you ever see, or even better built, a speaker, with a woofer price around 75€, that has a frequency range between 35Hz and 20Khz?
I'm just trying to improve low frequecy results... but probably between 40Hz and 34Hz there are no big difference to justify a volume 50L bigger.
Just for my curiosity, did you ever see, or even better built, a speaker, with a woofer price around 75€, that has a frequency range between 35Hz and 20Khz?
A good question. If it is answered it will either be only available locally in one part of the world.
Or if identified, it will be going out of stock in the next few days.
Maybe something like this?
https://stx.pl/en/w-25-200-8-mc.html
Or if identified, it will be going out of stock in the next few days.
Maybe something like this?
https://stx.pl/en/w-25-200-8-mc.html
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