Just for fun, I want to build a 4th order bandpass enclosure for my car. My goals is decent volume with low watts. Bandpass should help bump the efficiency, and in the car, give me decent frequency response.
What parameters should I be looking for in a driver for this application? What specs on the speaker itself will lend itself for this situation?
Thanks for any advice or knowledge in advance!
-Seth
What parameters should I be looking for in a driver for this application? What specs on the speaker itself will lend itself for this situation?
Thanks for any advice or knowledge in advance!
-Seth
Go to The Subwoofer DIY Page and look at the section on bandpass systems. A bandpass is essentially the same as a vented box, except the radiation from the diaphragm is trapped in the sealed enclosure. You have a little more wiggle room parameter-wise than a vented box, but a high Qts, high Vas woofer will take up your entire car.
Run some woofers through bandpass.xls including cabin gain - it may take you some time to figure it out - the forums there used to be quite good, but I haven't been there in some time.
Run some woofers through bandpass.xls including cabin gain - it may take you some time to figure it out - the forums there used to be quite good, but I haven't been there in some time.
Looked at that site for awhile last night. Some great information on that site. Last piece I was looking for, they didn't seem to have: parameters of the speaker itself that lends itself to a bandpass. You guys filled that portion in for me. Now I'm armed and dangerous! 😉
Looking through Parts Express catalog... I cam up with this 10" subwoofer. High Qts (.61), low Fs (27), and high Vas (3.15 cu. ft.).
Parts-Express.com:10" Dual Voice Coil Subwoofer | 10" subwoofer Dual Voice Coil Subwoofer DVC sub car sub home theater poly cone eminence sealed box subwoofer marcato DVSSUB090109
Thoughts?
Parts-Express.com:10" Dual Voice Coil Subwoofer | 10" subwoofer Dual Voice Coil Subwoofer DVC sub car sub home theater poly cone eminence sealed box subwoofer marcato DVSSUB090109
Thoughts?
I played around with the box design. This is what I came up with for the box design:
Here is what I came up with for the port size:
How does the design look? The frequency range, and F3 look good. This doesn't take into account cabin gain either. Tuning frequency seems about perfect for the music I listen too as well.
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Here is what I came up with for the port size:
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
How does the design look? The frequency range, and F3 look good. This doesn't take into account cabin gain either. Tuning frequency seems about perfect for the music I listen too as well.
That's because *almost* any set of t/s params should work, as you have quite a bit of flexibility with bandpass designs.
The question should really be, what are your main objectives with this design? e.g. do you have any restrictions wrt box size? Do you prefer a punchy bass, boomy bass, flabby bass or clean bass? What sort of output level are you aiming for?
"but a high Qts, high Vas woofer will take up your entire car."
BassBox v6.0 says you're wrong, so does Mathew Polk.
Years ago Polk wrote an article published in Audio magazine, and offered (esentially) free BP4 software.
Using the parameters I suggested will also maximize the vented box volume, and minimizethe sealed volume; key to being able to make a real sized port without 'chuffing'.
BassBox v6.0 says you're wrong, so does Mathew Polk.
Years ago Polk wrote an article published in Audio magazine, and offered (esentially) free BP4 software.
Using the parameters I suggested will also maximize the vented box volume, and minimizethe sealed volume; key to being able to make a real sized port without 'chuffing'.
I have a hatchback (Acura RSX), so I have a bit of a restriction. I'd be happy with anything 3 cubic feet or less. I prefer clean bass. Volume in a car isn't really an issue.
I have built many 4th order bandpasses, and just about all the woofers i have used have had a Qts between .35-.45. Low Fs also. Having a higher Vas makes it easier to instal a port with enough cross sectional area.
If you are looking at P/E, check out the Dayton DVC12 (the better one). I have made a few 4th orders with those, they work very well.
If you are looking at P/E, check out the Dayton DVC12 (the better one). I have made a few 4th orders with those, they work very well.
Parts-Express.com😀ayton DVC310-88 12" DVC Series Subwoofer | subwoofer dvc310-88 12" subwoofer dvc dual voice coil dayton subwoofer dayton dvc dayton 12" woofer
Parts-Express.com😀ayton SD315-88 12" Shielded DVC Subwoofer | subwoofer sd315-88 12" subwoofer dvc dual voice coil dayton subwoofer dayton dvc dayton 12" woofer daytonDVC030209 Upto15PerOffDASubs
Which one? Both look acceptable...
Parts-Express.com😀ayton SD315-88 12" Shielded DVC Subwoofer | subwoofer sd315-88 12" subwoofer dvc dual voice coil dayton subwoofer dayton dvc dayton 12" woofer daytonDVC030209 Upto15PerOffDASubs
Which one? Both look acceptable...
That first one is basically the Dayton verson of the Adire Audio Shiva. It should be a great sub, sealed, vented or bandpass.
Hi,
Please keep me posted. I want to build a 4th order bandpass with my son for his car and I'm looking for a reasonably priced driver and for ideas on the enclosure. In my case I have a Cavalier trunck to work with. I like the idea of ported into the cabin and not having the trunk loaded.
In my case, I've built many enclosures over the years including tapped horns but not a 4th order bandpass.
Regards,
Jim
Please keep me posted. I want to build a 4th order bandpass with my son for his car and I'm looking for a reasonably priced driver and for ideas on the enclosure. In my case I have a Cavalier trunck to work with. I like the idea of ported into the cabin and not having the trunk loaded.
In my case, I've built many enclosures over the years including tapped horns but not a 4th order bandpass.
Regards,
Jim
I know this is an old thread but I stumbled across while doing some reading after I built a pair of enclosures. I followed the dimensions of the KEF R107 and since I didn't have the original woofers, I tried different KEF B200 versions that I had access to. Tried SP1014, SP1022, SP1039, SP1063, SP1054, SP1070, SP1075 and SP1069 (16Ohms).
All of them have Fs around 24-27Hz and Vas around 130lt. They differ significantly on Qts.
The best results were achieved with the old and "lowly" SP1014 that has a Qts of 0,51. The large magnet SP1054 (with rather low Qts of around 0,23) didn't perform too well (bass was lacking) as did the paper cone SP1070 that I initially had higher hopes for.
I've used two drivers per enclosure with a rear enclosure around 19lt each and a front enclosure of about 15lt driving the large port of 12cmx29cmx41cm. Excursion is very low but the tightness of the bass and the extension to the low frequencies makes my R105 ashamed.
All of them have Fs around 24-27Hz and Vas around 130lt. They differ significantly on Qts.
The best results were achieved with the old and "lowly" SP1014 that has a Qts of 0,51. The large magnet SP1054 (with rather low Qts of around 0,23) didn't perform too well (bass was lacking) as did the paper cone SP1070 that I initially had higher hopes for.
I've used two drivers per enclosure with a rear enclosure around 19lt each and a front enclosure of about 15lt driving the large port of 12cmx29cmx41cm. Excursion is very low but the tightness of the bass and the extension to the low frequencies makes my R105 ashamed.
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