Never asked this...
The distance between the first fresnel and the lamp is set to a minimum given by the focal value of this fresnel, on my 15" this will be 220mm + 1 or 2" for the moire avoid distance needed between the lcd and the fresnel.
And this is true is box is amazing, good piece of construction, not looking like a Peter Daniel one
, but very good!Hi EdwinFriend
In my case distances are:
Bulb to Condenser : aprox 10mm (from external glass tube border offcourse to back of condenser. The bulb is tubular and is 56mm in diameter so the point source here is at 38 or 40mm from the condenser)
Back of condenser to Fresnel: aprox 165mm
Fresnels unsplitted to TFT:8mm and here is the problem I will separate the fresnel a little bit to avoid rings.
Hi Miles Teg !
Yes thats right. I´m looking for UV and IR filtering prior to make some adjustments on the current layout (because may be I´ll need to change all the layout
), Then I´ll separate my fresnell a little more from the panel. Anyway, those rings and granularity appears only on the pictures taken with long expossure times (1.5secs) they are hardly visibles on Windows desktop and totally invisibles on motion video. Also some moving ringing appears sometimes due to poor cable quality (8 mts run) that is another thing to take care off.
Hi rcabezas, Thanks !
It is almost 31cm long, 11cm height and 7cm width.
Regarding heat, my bulb is really hot, but asbestos replacement material is doing here a tremendous job. I´m using the fresnels now without any glass sandwitch and they get only warm, nothing to worry about, but panel get a little more hot but it is for the IR carried by the beam, so I think using a IR filter will let the panel run totally cold.
Regarding the bulbs, I encourage you to try to get a double ended bulb, because they are smaller than mine and you will be able to use it with a reflector. Even on 250w with a good reflector you will end with a lot more of light than with a 400w like mine without reflector and offcourse less heat and small design. Hope it helps.
In my case distances are:
Bulb to Condenser : aprox 10mm (from external glass tube border offcourse to back of condenser. The bulb is tubular and is 56mm in diameter so the point source here is at 38 or 40mm from the condenser)
Back of condenser to Fresnel: aprox 165mm
Fresnels unsplitted to TFT:8mm and here is the problem I will separate the fresnel a little bit to avoid rings.
Hi Miles Teg !
Yes thats right. I´m looking for UV and IR filtering prior to make some adjustments on the current layout (because may be I´ll need to change all the layout
), Then I´ll separate my fresnell a little more from the panel. Anyway, those rings and granularity appears only on the pictures taken with long expossure times (1.5secs) they are hardly visibles on Windows desktop and totally invisibles on motion video. Also some moving ringing appears sometimes due to poor cable quality (8 mts run) that is another thing to take care off.Hi rcabezas, Thanks !
It is almost 31cm long, 11cm height and 7cm width.
Regarding heat, my bulb is really hot, but asbestos replacement material is doing here a tremendous job. I´m using the fresnels now without any glass sandwitch and they get only warm, nothing to worry about, but panel get a little more hot but it is for the IR carried by the beam, so I think using a IR filter will let the panel run totally cold.
Regarding the bulbs, I encourage you to try to get a double ended bulb, because they are smaller than mine and you will be able to use it with a reflector. Even on 250w with a good reflector you will end with a lot more of light than with a 400w like mine without reflector and offcourse less heat and small design. Hope it helps.
Very good info, thanks so much, Bernardo.
I'll defenitely will be following your steps. About the bulb, I already ordered mine, so I guess it's too late for me... But I think the properties of this bulb are great, 5300K color temp, over 90 CRI!.
I'm going to order the fresnel pre-cut from Trev (Ace), and maybe the IR filter too... Have you tried running a fan closer to the LCD itself to see if it helps? I'm afraid of the IR filter may eat too much light..
Anyway, you can still use a reflector with a bulb like yours, I've seen pictures of a pj that a guy built using the ushio and the norpro bowl; he said though, that the reflector didn't help much.
Thanks so much, again. And keep up the good work!!
Raf.
PS: link to this guy's pj: http://www.lumenlab.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=1111&st=20 (great colors this guy gets with this bulb, btw)
I'll defenitely will be following your steps. About the bulb, I already ordered mine, so I guess it's too late for me... But I think the properties of this bulb are great, 5300K color temp, over 90 CRI!.
I'm going to order the fresnel pre-cut from Trev (Ace), and maybe the IR filter too... Have you tried running a fan closer to the LCD itself to see if it helps? I'm afraid of the IR filter may eat too much light..
Anyway, you can still use a reflector with a bulb like yours, I've seen pictures of a pj that a guy built using the ushio and the norpro bowl; he said though, that the reflector didn't help much.
Thanks so much, again. And keep up the good work!!
Raf.
PS: link to this guy's pj: http://www.lumenlab.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=1111&st=20 (great colors this guy gets with this bulb, btw)
You are right, Bernardo. And I did make my own calculations and determined my distances, and all. But turns out that the condensor I got is almost the same you have. The lamp is very similar. I'm also getting the fresnel from Ace, and also using the lilli. So lots of the distances are very close to yours; that's why I wanted to get your numbers, to do a safety check to make sure I didn't have any out of whack numbers
I really appreciate your help; thanks!
Raf.
I really appreciate your help; thanks!
Raf.
hi, i've got the following
90mm Condenser Lens
Spherical Reflector 64mm dia 32.6mm Focal Length
Frensel Lens Set, Cut 106mm x 167mm,
--Top Focal 310mm
--Bottom Focal 210mm
Copy lens (fuji 240mm)
Front Surface Mirror for Lilliput LCD x 2
and a lilliut XVA LCD,
i have my 250W light source on the way,
How do i work out the distances between the optics and what order to peeps think will work best,
bfourcade, big yourslef up man, sweet design.
Can anyone help
90mm Condenser Lens
Spherical Reflector 64mm dia 32.6mm Focal Length
Frensel Lens Set, Cut 106mm x 167mm,
--Top Focal 310mm
--Bottom Focal 210mm
Copy lens (fuji 240mm)
Front Surface Mirror for Lilliput LCD x 2
and a lilliut XVA LCD,
i have my 250W light source on the way,
How do i work out the distances between the optics and what order to peeps think will work best,
bfourcade, big yourslef up man, sweet design.
Can anyone help
Hey, Bernardo. Question: I see you have two holes on your light box: 1 for the light to go out (airtight?), another to suck the hot air out using a fan. Do you have some vents or something for air to get in so it can be sucked out? If so, where did you put it, and how do you prevent light from leaking out??
Thanks for all your help again,
Raf.
Thanks for all your help again,
Raf.
Hi The_Mazta,
from memory it is aprox 33cm by 42cm and 13cm in height. But once again, I´m still experimenting and it will be changed for another design, so try differents approachs and get fun learning the best layout for your parts, drawing and designing your own custom proyector. I dont think there is one definitive model or plan for our projectors.We are constantly improving them and some improvments may requiere a complete makeover. By example if I need to add a second Fan on the light box I´ll need to redo the complet projector.So I think we need to find the better distances and layout for our giving parts and then search for the compact size and weight. Hope it make sense.
Hi Raf,
I have 9 holes on the removable side of Light engine box so them goes to the left lateral. The holes are 13mm in diameter and there are 2 big holes with located in the back side of the enclosure so the air can come in to the projector. There are no light leakeages at all.
For the panel the holes are on the MDF base at 45 degrees, so there is an small light leakage (due to reflected light on the fresnel but is very small and goes to the table where the projector is used.
Hope it helps.
Bernardo.
Hey, Bernardo; thanks for the reply!
I did see 6 holes on the left-hand side of the lightbox in your pictures, but it looks like they are blocked by the asbestos-replacement material; am I wrong?
I counldn't find any pictures of the air entry holes on your enclosure.
Anyway; that's the area where I was planning on drilling some holes also, but was thinking about using louvres or something, but I guess, I may not need them..
Thanks, again, Bernardo, you're the man!
Raf.
I did see 6 holes on the left-hand side of the lightbox in your pictures, but it looks like they are blocked by the asbestos-replacement material; am I wrong?
I counldn't find any pictures of the air entry holes on your enclosure.
Anyway; that's the area where I was planning on drilling some holes also, but was thinking about using louvres or something, but I guess, I may not need them..
Thanks, again, Bernardo, you're the man!
Raf.
hi b4cade, have u tried taking off ur condenser and d aluminun infront of it and put a reflector w/ d bulb...just like doing a 15" lcd...coz im wondering if u could use all d lights of that 400watts... and ithink it will be more brighter...well of course if u could suck all d heat inside...pls correct if this is a bad idea..
UV and MH lamps
This is a rather late reply to a post by bfourcade ages ago about UV and LCDs. Although some people replied to it, it was ages ago and it's always worth saying this again.....
and
Yep you are absolutley right, they do pump out an awful lot of UV. They actually have a coating on the glass to reduce the levels of UV but still an awful lot comes out, I remmeber seeing a a figure for the amount as a percentage ages ago but I cant remmeber, it't more than 15% for many bulbs, so a filter is a must! Else your LCD screen will not last as long as it should and with high gain screens there is a chance your eyes may suffer too especially if you are watching the picture in a dark room!
Also, good work to all who have finished their projectors, it really is very encouraging to see so many great looking results for small amounts of money! Keep up the good work, it's all make me think I may have to progress from my OHP/Projection Panel set up to something better.............
This is a rather late reply to a post by bfourcade ages ago about UV and LCDs. Although some people replied to it, it was ages ago and it's always worth saying this again.....
and
Yep you are absolutley right, they do pump out an awful lot of UV. They actually have a coating on the glass to reduce the levels of UV but still an awful lot comes out, I remmeber seeing a a figure for the amount as a percentage ages ago but I cant remmeber, it't more than 15% for many bulbs, so a filter is a must! Else your LCD screen will not last as long as it should and with high gain screens there is a chance your eyes may suffer too especially if you are watching the picture in a dark room!
Also, good work to all who have finished their projectors, it really is very encouraging to see so many great looking results for small amounts of money! Keep up the good work, it's all make me think I may have to progress from my OHP/Projection Panel set up to something better.............
Hola bfourcade, te envie un mail, no se si lo has recibido, era para invitarte a un foro diy en español que estamos haciendo y me gustaría que podamos contar con tu experiencia, ya que estamos todos empezando. te dejo el link.
Gracias.
Un saludo.
please visit spanish diy projector
Gracias.
Un saludo.
please visit spanish diy projector
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