I want to build 2 x 8 inch subwoofers for my hi fi system.
Any suggestions for drivers, prefer sealed but could use passive radiators as ports would probably be too long for a small box.
Any suggestions for drivers, prefer sealed but could use passive radiators as ports would probably be too long for a small box.
How wich bandwith (frequency) and how low do they have to go? that is essential info to answer your question. Without that info we can't suggest a good one.
plenty of suggestions, but a little difficult to answer without knowing the budget, size and context
Double 8" sort of requires about 60 liters or so, about the same as for a single 12".
I suggest the Beyma 12BR70 or perhaps even the Faital Pro 12FE300 instead.
I suggest the Beyma 12BR70 or perhaps even the Faital Pro 12FE300 instead.
I disagree with both assertions: (1) Required cabinet volume. (2) Required port length.
Almost every company producing a ported sub with an 8-inch driver has a version in an approximately 21 litre box. They can't all be wrong.
PSW 111 8-Inch 300 Watt Compact Powered Subwoofer Subwoofers | Polk Audio or VW8are typical, every manufacturer will have their own virtual clone.
It's very common that manufacturers have ports that are severely downsized to the point of causing audible "chuffing", 21 liters would be a bit constricted unless the tuning frequency is about 60hz or so.
Not saying it's impossible to get bass out of an 8" in a 21 liter box, but there are tradeoffs... And I see no information about what kind of SPL one can expect at what kind of room loading, and at which frequency can it be expected. There's some bragging about watts and small size, but that's largely irrelevant IMO.
The Beyma 12BR70 is a very good option for a closed box at 55-60 liters IMO, not "earth shattering" but adequate for most users. Feel free to thrash my suggestion, but you haven't heard it IRL.
Edit:
Seeing as there's a 9 liter difference between my suggestion and what you've posted I wouldn't exactly say you got the ultimate winning argument there. 9 liters more per driver is a small price to pay for a bit more optimalized performance.
Not saying it's impossible to get bass out of an 8" in a 21 liter box, but there are tradeoffs... And I see no information about what kind of SPL one can expect at what kind of room loading, and at which frequency can it be expected. There's some bragging about watts and small size, but that's largely irrelevant IMO.
The Beyma 12BR70 is a very good option for a closed box at 55-60 liters IMO, not "earth shattering" but adequate for most users. Feel free to thrash my suggestion, but you haven't heard it IRL.
Edit:
Seeing as there's a 9 liter difference between my suggestion and what you've posted I wouldn't exactly say you got the ultimate winning argument there. 9 liters more per driver is a small price to pay for a bit more optimalized performance.
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I base my opinion on having owned four 8-inch subs in the past couple of years (I still own two of them).
Your extra 9 litres represents a 40% increase in cabinet volume. ROT dictates whatever you can get out of an eight in 30 litres, I can get better a better response using a ten.
Thanks for replies.
I will be using one on each channel so need 2.
For music not cinema use not sure how low I need to go.
Classical and rock.
I will be using one on each channel so need 2.
For music not cinema use not sure how low I need to go.
Classical and rock.
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I have no experience, but how about two of those per cabinet,
10″ SW26DBAC76-8
10″ SW26DBAC76-8 / Aluminum - Sbacoustics
(Like 20L could do the trick with linkwitz transform ?)
Or maybe this one, one per cabinet
10″ SW26DBAC76-3-DV / Aluminum - Sbacoustics
In like 10-15L again with linkwitz transform ?
I'm thinking to build something with those, two per cabinet, in 20L closed...
Maybe it could do the trick for you too....
But as I say, I'm not an expert so I mide be completely wrong 😉
10″ SW26DBAC76-8
10″ SW26DBAC76-8 / Aluminum - Sbacoustics
(Like 20L could do the trick with linkwitz transform ?)
Or maybe this one, one per cabinet
10″ SW26DBAC76-3-DV / Aluminum - Sbacoustics
In like 10-15L again with linkwitz transform ?
I'm thinking to build something with those, two per cabinet, in 20L closed...
Maybe it could do the trick for you too....
But as I say, I'm not an expert so I mide be completely wrong 😉
As long as you are happy about that, good for you.
I have a range of speakers with different bass solutions around the house, from 6" to double 15", closed, bass reflex, qw, t-tqwt, dipole I don't care what kind as long as it's fun and something can be learned.
If you like to make subs that are as small as possible, that's fine, and in some cases a compact solution is the compromise people decide to go for.
But is the most compact solution always the BEST solution?
I guess it is possible to cram a 15" into a ridiculous looking 20 liter volume if we're in a pi$$ing contest, but that's just silly.
A 20.4 liter volume can be for example 27*27*28cm
A 30.7 liter volume can be for example 31*31*32cm
If the slightly bigger box can give you a flatter and slightly deeper frequency response, and better cone control, with slightly less power, would that be such a disadvantage that you would choose not to?
By all means, I do not wish to meddle in your personal choice of compromise, but I am willing to sacrifice just a few centimetres extra when I'm in the process of making sawdust anyway.
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My 8" "Boom Unit" 32 Hz MLTL build comes in at around 26 litres net. You can go smaller, but unless you're planning to use a PR, you're likely going to have to settle for a higher Fb.
I made some 8" woofers using Tang Band Tang Band W8-1363 woofers. One for each side. I used an an EBS ported alignment which is easy to sort our with WinISD. They go flat down to around 33 Hz. With room gain they sound as if they lack nothing. Pretty good for an 8 incher. Internal volume is about 1/2 cubic foot. (16 liters IIRC) Keep in mind this is EBS so they do shelf up about 3 DB around 100Hz. I've been very happy with the results. I also use them for music, not movies. BTW, these woofers have almost doubled in price since I first bought mine. But they do the job. I think the TB 740 can yiled similar results for a bit less money.
Well, I thought 16 liters was insufficient for the W6-1139SI, ended up making a tapped design of around 36 liters sans materials.
I got a double 6.5 Seas setup in a closed volume of about 36 liters, and it's just enough IMO. Depends a lot on the drivers involved for sure, and for instance low sensitivity car subs can be persuaded to produce some bass in little space provided there is enough power on tap.
Still, if sensitivity is important to you, BIB.
I got a double 6.5 Seas setup in a closed volume of about 36 liters, and it's just enough IMO. Depends a lot on the drivers involved for sure, and for instance low sensitivity car subs can be persuaded to produce some bass in little space provided there is enough power on tap.
Still, if sensitivity is important to you, BIB.
Did consider of using 4th order bandpass enclosure? their transient response gets quite close with sealed enclosure as they have a sealed chamber and offers excursion protection. i have a 4th order bandpass enclosure using only 4 inch driver i know how they sound like 😀
two units of woofers is this a stereo subwoofer or 2 subwoofers sharing a same enclosure?
If can consider to upgrade to 10inch subs i suggest to take a look at ACI SV10 ... decent TS parameters for various box configurations
In my experience bandpass subwoofers are not the solution for hi-fi applications. The can be boomy, one-note wonders. They are popular in cars due their inherent cone excursion restriction - valuable if you've got 1000 watts in a car but not so relevant in a house. Some appreciate the fact that a crossover or coil is not required but in your set-up the fixed frequency response restricts fine tuning options.
I assume you want your subs to be passive. How do you plan to drive them?
oh i see you 're actually looking at the standpoint of sound quality ... in this case sealed box should be your best choice since they have the best group delay and tightest bass response ... i've used sealed box for my mains but ported for my 25Hz lows and bandpass for 55hz to 120hz ... this is my current setup ...
passive subwoofers use low pass filter and active equalization (bass management) ... use corner loading to obtain room gain ... active EQ circuits can be found at ESP page
but if your approach is to use sealed sub take note that efficiency will be lower especially on the lower end ... you can however compensate that using active EQ which boost the low end bass up
FYI bandpass enclosures can be designed to have flat passband response ... they got the name one note wonder since they mainly involve in SPL competition 😀
passive subwoofers use low pass filter and active equalization (bass management) ... use corner loading to obtain room gain ... active EQ circuits can be found at ESP page
but if your approach is to use sealed sub take note that efficiency will be lower especially on the lower end ... you can however compensate that using active EQ which boost the low end bass up
FYI bandpass enclosures can be designed to have flat passband response ... they got the name one note wonder since they mainly involve in SPL competition 😀
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Choose subwoofer for your box.
You can use this page as a database and search.
Click choice instead of choose, give volume, style (close/vented), filter for diameter 8" and sort by f3 if you like.
Sealed you´re looking at a f3 of ~50Hz in 20l but that can be plenty already depending on the room.
The Dayton Audio RS225-4 would be suitable in 20l sealed for example and gets lots of likes around here.
Or the Dayton Audio DSA215-8 in 20l vented.
You can use this page as a database and search.
Click choice instead of choose, give volume, style (close/vented), filter for diameter 8" and sort by f3 if you like.
Sealed you´re looking at a f3 of ~50Hz in 20l but that can be plenty already depending on the room.
The Dayton Audio RS225-4 would be suitable in 20l sealed for example and gets lots of likes around here.
Or the Dayton Audio DSA215-8 in 20l vented.
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That's because a 4th order bandpass sub IS a closed system with just a acoustic lowpass filter in front.
Was nice back in the days when amplifiers were big and expensive.
These days with active filtering and power in abundance, small and cheap, bandpass subs provide very little benefits
f-3dB, f-6dB, f-8dB, simulated, in room?
Debatable of course! I´d say the resulting f-8dB in the room.
Otherwise the poor newbie thinks he´ll have to find a design that gives him f-3dB<=30Hz simulated which is "nonsense" of course, or at least well over the top for most of us/our rooms.