Got a piece of 3 mm acrylic to copy the AER Goldie. YouTube hybrid DML 4 Part easy simple build., Really! Instruments resonate on large surfaces way larger then most piston drivers. Less all the mechanical restrictions these panels are acting much like musical instruments. This technology is going to get real good fast. I think the simplicity and inexpensive design warrants more attention and interest. I'm hooked. This seems to be to good to be true but IS. Michael
3 mm is thin, use solvent bonding to add acrylic strips (make a T shape) on the non-visible side.
Other methods of bracing are possible, but this is elegant, and you can re use scraps from the edge trimmings...
Or you may have resonance issues.
Other methods of bracing are possible, but this is elegant, and you can re use scraps from the edge trimmings...
Or you may have resonance issues.
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That would look nicer than a rectangle frame. Not sure piecing together would work. Like you said resonance issues are everything with this design. From what I've learned you just have to do trial and error approach and use good test equipment.. one that graphs spectral decay would be very helpful. Might look into some test equipment if not too expensive.The AER Goldie uses 2mm from what was on their own site. Not for sure? Michael3 mm is thin, use solvent bonding to add acrylic strips (make a T shape) on the non-visible side.
Other methods of bracing are possible, but this is elegant, and you can re use scraps from the edge trimmings...
Or you may have resonance issues.
Glad to have your interest in DML design. Get what you meant by scraps for the T frame now. Do you have an excitor? Got 1 40 watt Dayton. Played around with all kinds on materials and shapes. Trying to get the low FR good enough to not use a sub and still have good top end. Thinking maybe even using a tweeter and concentrate on the low end. Would be cheaper and easier to build. Would like to have your feed back! I can sell these at a friend's store if there is a profit involved. Michael3 mm is thin, use solvent bonding to add acrylic strips (make a T shape) on the non-visible side.
Other methods of bracing are possible, but this is elegant, and you can re use scraps from the edge trimmings...
Or you may have resonance issues.
It already is. 😀 I've heard professional versions that use expensive honey comb panels. They are quite good.This technology is going to get real good fast.

Hey NareshBrd, Just found an indepth article on exciters/tactile transducers on Parts Express. Compression strength corrilates to higher frequency efficiency and bend strength associated with mid and low frequency efficiency. Explains all types of compatible materials and applications. MichaelGlad to have your interest in DML design. Get what you meant by scraps for the T frame now. Do you have an excitor? Got 1 40 watt Dayton. Played around with all kinds on materials and shapes. Trying to get the low FR good enough to not use a sub and still have good top end. Thinking maybe even using a tweeter and concentrate on the low end. Would be cheaper and easier to build. Would like to have your feed back! I can sell these at a friend's store if there is a profit involved. Michael
Hey NaresBrd, Just found an indepth article on excitors and tactile transducers on Parts Express. Compression strength corrilates to high frequency efficiency and bend strength associated with mid and low frequency efficiency Explains all types of compatible materials and applications. Michael
Hey, Thanks for input. Will look into commercialy available stuff. Will copy anything good and try and sell if it worth the work and profit is available. MichaelIt already is. 😀 I've heard professional versions that use expensive honey comb panels. They are quite good.![]()
Honey comb would be sort of like corrugated cardboard. Played with it a bit but need the increase bend strength for better low frequency. Compression strength for highs is good with cardboard. Will coat with something to stiffen. Any suggestions? Maybe that Flex Seal rubber paint or thinking epoxy paint. Will just have to experiment.and have some cheap fun. Michael
Flexseal or anything rubberized will hurt not help as it will damp out the mids and highs. Rigid epoxy would be good if thin enough. It has to be light and stiff.
Use 9 or 12 mm PVC foam board, or wood composite board.
Less hassle, no resonance issues.
Much more suitable than Acrylic, which will take a lot of time and effort to set up properly, particularly for frequency response, as mentioned above.
Decide your priority: having fun playing with it, (as a toy or project).....OR listening to music.
Then go in that direction.
Less hassle, no resonance issues.
Much more suitable than Acrylic, which will take a lot of time and effort to set up properly, particularly for frequency response, as mentioned above.
Decide your priority: having fun playing with it, (as a toy or project).....OR listening to music.
Then go in that direction.
Hey MDP, Thanks for your insight. Yes the rubber would be a bad idea.just like throwing ideas out there for others response. What do you think about dipping a corigated cardboard in say polyurethane finish like for floors. Would dry hard and be thin also would impregnate the entire surface area. let me know what you think. Parts Express has information about excitors and tactile transducers. I plan on trying to sell something that is cheap and good enough sounding to make a profit if all the work to get there is worth the effort. Michael
Yes you are correct. I need to prioritize and see if this is something feasible to sell and design. Just started learning about this concept. Thanks MichaelUse 9 or 12 mm PVC foam board, or wood composite board.
Less hassle, no resonance issues.
Much more suitable than Acrylic, which will take a lot of time and effort to set up properly, particularly for frequency response, as mentioned above.
Decide your priority: having fun playing with it, (as a toy or project).....OR listening to music.
Then go in that direction.
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