Any know how to remove the crossover from an ADS L810? I cant tell how its mounted behind the top woofer. Is it glued to the rear?
Tia
Tia
Hi Tia, and welcome to the forum!
A clear photo of the mounted crossover board may prove helpful.
There may be screws that have to be removed.
A clear photo of the mounted crossover board may prove helpful.
There may be screws that have to be removed.
It would appear that you have to remove the two screws at the top of the board as has been done in the case below:
EDIT: If removing the two screws is insufficient, investigate the nut and bolt holding the big inductor (coil) at the bottom of your photo.
P.S. The only component that may be in need of replacement on that board is the black bipolar 100 uF capacitor.
Please report back your findings.
EDIT: If removing the two screws is insufficient, investigate the nut and bolt holding the big inductor (coil) at the bottom of your photo.
P.S. The only component that may be in need of replacement on that board is the black bipolar 100 uF capacitor.
Please report back your findings.
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I mentioned the electrolytic cap because this particular type can change value over tens of years.
You didn't explain you had no bass. Do you mean no bass at all, no bass in one speaker or no bass in both speakers?
No bass at all might indicate a broken bass driver.
An out of specification 100 uF cap would affect the bass quality since it is in parallel with the bass driver.
We need a full and accurate description of your problem in order to help.
P.S. I presume you've checked the fuse?
You didn't explain you had no bass. Do you mean no bass at all, no bass in one speaker or no bass in both speakers?
No bass at all might indicate a broken bass driver.
An out of specification 100 uF cap would affect the bass quality since it is in parallel with the bass driver.
We need a full and accurate description of your problem in order to help.
P.S. I presume you've checked the fuse?
Fuse is good. There is output on the mid and tweeter. Nothing on either woofer. Thats why I assumed the crossover. I fried enough drivers in my old L710’s back in 70’s. 😇 that I treat these gently.
Take a multimeter and measure resistance at the bass drivers contact points. If you don't have a meter, connect a 1.5Volt battery at these points. The cone should move.
Maybe do some pictures of all components, so people who want to help you may get a better impression.
This black electrolytic capacitor will go bad over time, it is a good idea to replace it if the rest of the speaker works well. Quite inexpensive, too.
Maybe do some pictures of all components, so people who want to help you may get a better impression.
This black electrolytic capacitor will go bad over time, it is a good idea to replace it if the rest of the speaker works well. Quite inexpensive, too.
The impedance of the system is 6 ohm so it would appear the two woofers are wired in series.
https://stereonomono.blogspot.com/2012/12/ads-l810.html
https://stereonomono.blogspot.com/2012/12/ads-l810.html
Tia, I still need a full and accurate description of the fault as requested in post #7. I presume the fault is in just one of the stereo pair of speakers?
If 2.8 ohm is the parallel resistance then the individual driver resistance is 5.6 ohm, indicating a nominal driver impedance of 8 ohm.
This is in agreement with the specifications which say minimal impedance 4 ohm (equivalent to two 8 ohm impedances in parallel).
If 2.8 ohm is the parallel resistance then the individual driver resistance is 5.6 ohm, indicating a nominal driver impedance of 8 ohm.
This is in agreement with the specifications which say minimal impedance 4 ohm (equivalent to two 8 ohm impedances in parallel).
How else to describe the fault? There is output from tweeter and midrange but nothing from either woofer.
Things you could try to narrow down the problem:
- Check there is continuity between crossover and woofers.
- Disconnect woofers from crossover and apply a music signal directly to them.
- Compare measurements with those from the working speaker of the pair.
The other caps are expensive film foil, dry and near to indestructable, while the black one is a liquid filled, cheap high capacity type. Will last about 15 years under normal conditions.´