Interesting.....cant say Ive ever heard of those. I wonder if the lack of a tweeter is affecting the way these OPA's are changing sound. Maybe you need something that pushes the upper mids, more than the top. You probably will like something like the OPA2132 or OPA1656's with those speakers.
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Yes, I ordered a pair and theyll be here today so Ill update my opinion on them when I get them installed. Im going to remove all caps on the OPA's too to get a real feel of both the 1656's and how each added cap affects their sound.
SOIC-8 to DIP Adapter - BrownDog Adapters - 970601
SOIC-8 to DIP Adapter - BrownDog Adapters - 970601
Be mindful that just as my feedback is based on the very accurate NHT's I have, his is/was (at least in this thread) based on very efficient, less than accurate (Ive owned so many) Klispch speakers.
Neither of these will sound like the ones you have. That said, OPA1656's seem to get fairly universal love around here.
Sailomanbigd, sorry to read your probs with OPAs. My advice, get OPA1656 and be done, many many like it. OK, it might sound a bit pricey if not DIY, but then for 30$ you lift your amp by 300$ at least.
I don't know where the idea arose that I evaluated OPA1656 only on Klipsch RP-8000F (that one being BTW very different from former LS they built and quite acceptable in the mid HIFI 2000$ range, whereas I am not a fan of many mainstream Klipsches).
A bit of history...I tried OPA1656s IN THE AIYIMA because it was on SEVERAL occasions BEFORE the OPA that won for me. The very basic "low gain preamp and balancing schematic" they are used for in the Aiyima happens to be very similar to other configurations I had them tested in, hence me recommanding testing them for this amp well before this thread even started (in the other main thread in the Class D section). I took this Aiyima tweaking as a low cost puzzle / game and despite having posted a long time ago before this thread what I would have done to this unit (should I have a closer look at this amp), to help hinting others/owners, , not many people reacted positively (not even bothering trying, arguing it would be inaudible or worst, who was I after all in the Class D world...).
That's the reason Rob started a new thread (this one) and with his authorization I bolted on... and thanks to a playfull friend called Gilles I decided to test myself what I had advised to try. And we went on, to see how it would fare. That's how it all started on our side.
Now, back to OPA1656. I tested them of course in my system, with my loudspeakers, also on other LS (small 2 ways), and in very different impedance and gain configurations in my own RIAA preamp, as output stage in a DAC and finaly also as main OPAs in my HP amp that I use for monitoring (it is OK because I have 700R load, won't be OK for most HP though, beware!)... and also in a rig that is mainly built to try OPAs for common audio application (read ours here... or the ones mentioned, not for DC servo or digital PS etc.).
In fact, I reported on all these in previous threads, long before that one started to my sole amusement (again, I don't even own such an amp), and I moved on to other bits meanwhile, BTW also with OPA1656. It replaced meanwhile with success many other OPAs including some old high quality 5532s - no contest to my ears. The first time I came across someone with mitigated comments was here and recently, but then I will wait for final listening tests with genuine parts.
For all other comments on this meanwhile more and more popular OPA, please use the search functions... lots of infos and users here, regardless the system. It is difficult to define neutrality as most OPAs are supposed to be very "staight". They aren't. On top of speed, energy across all registers, consitency, tonal balance, which are must and the starting point for me, the remaining OPAs are evaluated around soundstage, airiness, musicality and detailling. It is not easy to find an OPA that marries musciality (fun factor, sounding authentic, reproducing several registers with the same perfection) and transparency / ultimate detailling. It is a trade off usualy. Here we get both together at high level IMHO, an OPA that has enough details and neutrality while defo not sounding sterile / cold... but just engaging real.
That doesn't mean it is the OPA FOR YOU, nor that it won't get beaten one day... but we are getting very close - AGAIN IMHO- to something perfect at least to my ears. Say a notch above what I used since 2 decades around AD825 and 2SK170 transistors (possibly the best low level transistor ever for audio band).
Last but not least, I was hard against any kind of OPA in the sound path 2 decades ago... and changed my mind given the latest improvements. I was then for 2 decades a hater of most TI OPAs and never wanted to use on of these despite having dozens of these lying around. I changed with OPA1656. And some find me quite conservative, so that must say something
Give it a try regardless the price and if not happy (???) someone will likely be delighted to buy them off you again... worst case.
Claude
I don't know where the idea arose that I evaluated OPA1656 only on Klipsch RP-8000F (that one being BTW very different from former LS they built and quite acceptable in the mid HIFI 2000$ range, whereas I am not a fan of many mainstream Klipsches).
A bit of history...I tried OPA1656s IN THE AIYIMA because it was on SEVERAL occasions BEFORE the OPA that won for me. The very basic "low gain preamp and balancing schematic" they are used for in the Aiyima happens to be very similar to other configurations I had them tested in, hence me recommanding testing them for this amp well before this thread even started (in the other main thread in the Class D section). I took this Aiyima tweaking as a low cost puzzle / game and despite having posted a long time ago before this thread what I would have done to this unit (should I have a closer look at this amp), to help hinting others/owners, , not many people reacted positively (not even bothering trying, arguing it would be inaudible or worst, who was I after all in the Class D world...).
That's the reason Rob started a new thread (this one) and with his authorization I bolted on... and thanks to a playfull friend called Gilles I decided to test myself what I had advised to try. And we went on, to see how it would fare. That's how it all started on our side.
Now, back to OPA1656. I tested them of course in my system, with my loudspeakers, also on other LS (small 2 ways), and in very different impedance and gain configurations in my own RIAA preamp, as output stage in a DAC and finaly also as main OPAs in my HP amp that I use for monitoring (it is OK because I have 700R load, won't be OK for most HP though, beware!)... and also in a rig that is mainly built to try OPAs for common audio application (read ours here... or the ones mentioned, not for DC servo or digital PS etc.).
In fact, I reported on all these in previous threads, long before that one started to my sole amusement (again, I don't even own such an amp), and I moved on to other bits meanwhile, BTW also with OPA1656. It replaced meanwhile with success many other OPAs including some old high quality 5532s - no contest to my ears. The first time I came across someone with mitigated comments was here and recently, but then I will wait for final listening tests with genuine parts.
For all other comments on this meanwhile more and more popular OPA, please use the search functions... lots of infos and users here, regardless the system. It is difficult to define neutrality as most OPAs are supposed to be very "staight". They aren't. On top of speed, energy across all registers, consitency, tonal balance, which are must and the starting point for me, the remaining OPAs are evaluated around soundstage, airiness, musicality and detailling. It is not easy to find an OPA that marries musciality (fun factor, sounding authentic, reproducing several registers with the same perfection) and transparency / ultimate detailling. It is a trade off usualy. Here we get both together at high level IMHO, an OPA that has enough details and neutrality while defo not sounding sterile / cold... but just engaging real.
That doesn't mean it is the OPA FOR YOU, nor that it won't get beaten one day... but we are getting very close - AGAIN IMHO- to something perfect at least to my ears. Say a notch above what I used since 2 decades around AD825 and 2SK170 transistors (possibly the best low level transistor ever for audio band).
Last but not least, I was hard against any kind of OPA in the sound path 2 decades ago... and changed my mind given the latest improvements. I was then for 2 decades a hater of most TI OPAs and never wanted to use on of these despite having dozens of these lying around. I changed with OPA1656. And some find me quite conservative, so that must say something
Give it a try regardless the price and if not happy (???) someone will likely be delighted to buy them off you again... worst case.
Claude
I don't know the Brown Dog... but out of curiousity, what do you mean by 'the pins are too small for this socket'?
Pins are usualy pins, they are usualy std size both in diameter and pitch between pins. Sometimes you believe they are in, but you need to push a little bit more to make sure they are completely locked. So they are rather tight... most unexperienced people even struggle to get them out without braking anything or need special pliers to do so.
Now, should your "pins" be loose, then that would probably mean that your socket is too large. In which case the socket is the problem. Very unlikely, very std again... That is unless someone has forced something inside them, such as square section pins instead of the round ones. One would feel something is very wrong when trying that though, nearly forming the socket.
But should that be the case, than there is hope! Replacing the socket is the best option, being very careful not to ruin the tracks when desoldering. Replacement sockets can be found very easily and cheap. If really the socket has been enlarged, only std OPAs will fit and perform OKish, that is hoping for the best re contact...
Before throwing the brown dog away, what about trying it on a std socket (not the ones inside your amp)? And if still wrong, then complain to teh company who sold them!
Just my 2 p's
Claude
Pins are usualy pins, they are usualy std size both in diameter and pitch between pins. Sometimes you believe they are in, but you need to push a little bit more to make sure they are completely locked. So they are rather tight... most unexperienced people even struggle to get them out without braking anything or need special pliers to do so.
Now, should your "pins" be loose, then that would probably mean that your socket is too large. In which case the socket is the problem. Very unlikely, very std again... That is unless someone has forced something inside them, such as square section pins instead of the round ones. One would feel something is very wrong when trying that though, nearly forming the socket.
But should that be the case, than there is hope! Replacing the socket is the best option, being very careful not to ruin the tracks when desoldering. Replacement sockets can be found very easily and cheap. If really the socket has been enlarged, only std OPAs will fit and perform OKish, that is hoping for the best re contact...
Before throwing the brown dog away, what about trying it on a std socket (not the ones inside your amp)? And if still wrong, then complain to teh company who sold them!
Just my 2 p's
Claude
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Diameter on them is tiny....theyre just loose in the socket. Ive never seen pins this small in diameter before.
Any idea how these sockets are mounted on the board? I dont feel like opening it up again right now. I assume through hole? Im trying to figure out what sockets I need to buy. Fortunately I still have a pending order I havent placed yet.
Any idea how these sockets are mounted on the board? I dont feel like opening it up again right now. I assume through hole? Im trying to figure out what sockets I need to buy. Fortunately I still have a pending order I havent placed yet.
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Hi amigos,
Just to share :
TPA3255 - all about DIY, Discussion, Design etc.
Just finished my new updated Shui Yuan TPA3255 Amplifier VS my updated Aiyima A04
Videos :
VID_20210204_203452
VID_20210204_205113
Pictures :
deposer photo sur internet
deposer photo sur internet
Just to share :
TPA3255 - all about DIY, Discussion, Design etc.
Just finished my new updated Shui Yuan TPA3255 Amplifier VS my updated Aiyima A04
Videos :
VID_20210204_203452
VID_20210204_205113
Pictures :
deposer photo sur internet
deposer photo sur internet
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Hi,
It depends where you buy (for genuine caps and OP amps = Mouser / Audiophonics / Farnell) ...
For less than $150 and a little elbow grease and some soldering skills, this little amp is a bomb! And I know what I'm talking about ... I own the Jlester, DrMordor and a few dozen others) and also own the Purifi and NC500 dual Mono amps.
he does not blush when listening VS my NC500 for example)
It depends where you buy (for genuine caps and OP amps = Mouser / Audiophonics / Farnell) ...
For less than $150 and a little elbow grease and some soldering skills, this little amp is a bomb! And I know what I'm talking about ... I own the Jlester, DrMordor and a few dozen others) and also own the Purifi and NC500 dual Mono amps.
he does not blush when listening VS my NC500 for example)
They fit fine in new dip8 sockets. Once you’ve used a larger pin size it stretches the socket’s holders. In older sockets that have had a lot of rolling activity I’ve had to use new dip8 sockets as intermediate mounting sockets in between the browndog adapters and the existing (soldered in) dip8 socket and full contact is made.
Pete
Attachments
Quote Diameter on them is tiny....theyre just loose in the socket. Ive never seen pins this small in diameter before.
I feel sorry for you... well, try a socket you have handyjust to make sure and if still VERY lose, in a way you believe contact is not good, ask the seller about this! Perhaps he has an explanation... perhaps he got it wrong on yours and them it is up to him to sort it
Try to post a pix so we can see how it looks like...
Just my 2'ps
Claude
I feel sorry for you... well, try a socket you have handyjust to make sure and if still VERY lose, in a way you believe contact is not good, ask the seller about this! Perhaps he has an explanation... perhaps he got it wrong on yours and them it is up to him to sort it
Try to post a pix so we can see how it looks like...
Just my 2'ps
Claude