Hi
Now i am on a project building a portable mini full range speaker based on TangBand W3-593 driver. Now i currently house it in a 2.5 L ported box tuned about 110Hz using a 2inch diameter port. I am going to include a mono class D TPA3116D2 amplifier and also along with bluetooth module to make it a handy unit
The TangBand felt a little natural and balanced sound which felt it was lacking on the Low Bass end .... it still produces fair amount of bass but not something up to my expectation. I retuned it lower to around 90hz by adding another 90 degree elbow to increase the port length and the difference was not much ...
Any other Alternative drivers which suites for this application? thanks ... those i found locally were just below par than the TangBand which end up sounding worse than the TangBand ... i am looking for something which can deliver more agressive bass at the lower end and drum bass ... treble if lacking i can just simply add a tweeter and perhaps relocate the port to the rear
Now i am on a project building a portable mini full range speaker based on TangBand W3-593 driver. Now i currently house it in a 2.5 L ported box tuned about 110Hz using a 2inch diameter port. I am going to include a mono class D TPA3116D2 amplifier and also along with bluetooth module to make it a handy unit
The TangBand felt a little natural and balanced sound which felt it was lacking on the Low Bass end .... it still produces fair amount of bass but not something up to my expectation. I retuned it lower to around 90hz by adding another 90 degree elbow to increase the port length and the difference was not much ...
Any other Alternative drivers which suites for this application? thanks ... those i found locally were just below par than the TangBand which end up sounding worse than the TangBand ... i am looking for something which can deliver more agressive bass at the lower end and drum bass ... treble if lacking i can just simply add a tweeter and perhaps relocate the port to the rear
Attachments
A 2" port is probably over-sized for a 3" driver - you certainly won't run into air flow issues.
In general, though, a 3" driver is never going to give you amazing amounts of bass. I'd suggest adding a subwoofer. What are you comparing to?
Chris
In general, though, a 3" driver is never going to give you amazing amounts of bass. I'd suggest adding a subwoofer. What are you comparing to?
Chris
For this project i plan to use a single unit only since my goal for this project is compact, powerful and extending low ... i am building this project for my elder brother in mind it was planned to be placed in the kitchen and sometimes easy to carry to the living room ... and i dont get the meaning of "what are you comparing to?" 😵🤣 meanwhile i placed an order of this ... it a drop in replacement unit claimed that it was from harman kardon unit at good price ... i am waiting for some good news
Attachments
As noted, you're never going to get a huge amount of LF from a 3in wideband so you may be expecting too much. And given the application, you should be able to reduce the duct CSA, which will in turn allow a more convenient duct length for a given tuning. Depending on budget, you might want to look at a unit with a slightly rising LF response like the CHN50, Alpair 5.3 or TC9; at a slight stretch in size & price, an Alpair 6M may do. Before that though, assuming that amplifier has the power available, try paralleling a 2.7ohm resistor with a 0.68mH inductor (make sure the inductor is low DCR), and insert in series with the driver. That should give you a nominal 3dB of EQ above ~650Hz, although you may need a Zobel as well for it to behave consistently. TB's data sheets aren't the most helpful so unless you can measure inductance &c., you'll probably need to play about with this. Fortunately, it's not the most expensive thing to do, empirically. 😉
Amplifier is not an issue here since i bought the TPA3116D2 bridged module claimed can produce up 100W ... i also ordered the laptop adapter as the power supply which just arrived today (95W should be not a problem) equalization i ordered too a tone controlled unit (controls bass, mid and treble)
Every small fullrange has significantly rising distortion below 150Hz. You can't ignore physics.
No amount of tuning, eq, or any other modification can improve that. High distortion below 150Hz brings lots of upper harmonics, which will muddy the sound and completely ruin it.
Better is to search for small subwoofer, even compromised, to cover the range of 40 to 150 Hz, and have little fullrange working from 150 Hz up.
There are 4-5" dedicated woofers for the task.
Good source of measured data was Timothy Feleppas pages. But it seems to be down.
No amount of tuning, eq, or any other modification can improve that. High distortion below 150Hz brings lots of upper harmonics, which will muddy the sound and completely ruin it.
Better is to search for small subwoofer, even compromised, to cover the range of 40 to 150 Hz, and have little fullrange working from 150 Hz up.
There are 4-5" dedicated woofers for the task.
Good source of measured data was Timothy Feleppas pages. But it seems to be down.
the tang band unit was chosen due to it was the spare unit i had around ( A pair of them actually !!! another one is still kept and not being used ) ... and i build the enclosure from scrap 6' PVC pipes that was leftover from previous home renovation materials and the port also were the remaining used from various previous speaker projects ... i've thought of adding another subwoofer but the idea here i need to seal the TangBand chamber and add a tweeter at the old port hole ... then the remaining rear chamber i just employ a simple small 4th order Bandpass in isobaric form using 2 units of 4inch woofer ... that should do the trick?
I think you might need to be a bit more precise about what exactly you're doing. Is this one box? Two boxes? How many are you able to use? Budget? Size? Crossover if applicable?
my project is basically just a cylinder shaped one unit portable speaker ... Now i am waiting for an alternative 3 inch driver to arrive (ordered) ... if i drop in replaced it, and it still didnt solve the problem of having acceptable bass i guess i will need to seal off the chamber that contains the tangband driver (3inches) the PVC pipe is 9 inches long which left me around 6 inches to house another woofer unit configured to 4th order bandpass ... in my next comment i will draw a diagram off how it going to looks like
As a general principle, it seems sound. In practice, it will depend on whether you can find something that, even in a 4th order BP alignment, needs such a small volume.
Alternates, CHN-50, Alpair 5.2/3, and FF85wk are amoungst my preferred 3” and they fit nicely in a 2.5 litre miniOnken
dave
dave
i just tested everything today ... it seems i swapped with various different 3inch full ranges when it turned up loud it would cause lots of intermodulation distortion ... i think i might have to ditch this design and follow your advice implement a system with a subwoofer to relief the bass from the full ranges
The method to implement decent-sounding bass in a small driver is to cut the driver off so as to not exceed X-max, and then add harmonics of frequencies that you cut off to create apparent bass. This is how all the recent manufacturers are getting very unusual amounts of bass out of a small system. It's all harmonics, 0% natural. Obviously this requires DSP and a custom filter. You want to stay within driver limits to reduce distortion - I know JBL reduces the bass as the volume increases on some of their portables.
Look at the Peerless SLS 3.5" driver, 4.5mm Xmax, ~70Hz Fs and should work great in a 0.5L enclosure. Though it does need a tweeter as it's basically a woofer, and it needs a a proper filter because of the resonance peak. Remove the port, and add two 1000uF capacitors back-to-back to flatten the impedance peak and get a couple dB more out of the low end (the capacitor trick, there's a thread around here somewhere). Another trick is to slope the treble down a bit - if you aim for flat response with a small driver, you're in for trouble. You've to work with what you got.
I see a mono speaker. When you sum the bass from two channels you might have a situation where the bass actually reduces, depending on how you're summing it. Modern music is designed to be heard in stereo and may contain out-of-phase bass information so you'll get cancellation between channels. Just something to keep in mind.
Look at the Peerless SLS 3.5" driver, 4.5mm Xmax, ~70Hz Fs and should work great in a 0.5L enclosure. Though it does need a tweeter as it's basically a woofer, and it needs a a proper filter because of the resonance peak. Remove the port, and add two 1000uF capacitors back-to-back to flatten the impedance peak and get a couple dB more out of the low end (the capacitor trick, there's a thread around here somewhere). Another trick is to slope the treble down a bit - if you aim for flat response with a small driver, you're in for trouble. You've to work with what you got.
I see a mono speaker. When you sum the bass from two channels you might have a situation where the bass actually reduces, depending on how you're summing it. Modern music is designed to be heard in stereo and may contain out-of-phase bass information so you'll get cancellation between channels. Just something to keep in mind.
Frugel-Horn Lite pretty much does what Sangram described, but will unload below tuning frequency.
Has gotten many to come back for more not believing they ar ehearing a 3"
dave
Has gotten many to come back for more not believing they ar ehearing a 3"
dave