Hello to everybody,
I would like to build up really good and simple amplifier. I guess that original Toshiba 2SC5200 and 2SA1943 are good (even I have more sympathy to Sanken).
Is here something that should be improved? I am quite obsessive about THD and S/N ratio..
Thank you for help.
Oh and if you will find some scheme for Sanken 2SA1492 + 2SC3856 or 2SA1695 + 2SC4468 I will be very happy, because they are used in my favourite YAMAHA amplifiers!
Thanks!
Milan
I would like to build up really good and simple amplifier. I guess that original Toshiba 2SC5200 and 2SA1943 are good (even I have more sympathy to Sanken).
Is here something that should be improved? I am quite obsessive about THD and S/N ratio..
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Thank you for help.
Oh and if you will find some scheme for Sanken 2SA1492 + 2SC3856 or 2SA1695 + 2SC4468 I will be very happy, because they are used in my favourite YAMAHA amplifiers!
Thanks!
Milan
Hello to everybody,
I would like to build up really good and simple amplifier. I guess that original Toshiba 2SC5200 and 2SA1943 are good (even I have more sympathy to Sanken).
Is here something that should be improved? I am quite obsessive about THD and S/N ratio..
An externally hosted image should be here but it was not working when we last tested it.
Thank you for help.
Oh and if you will find some scheme for Sanken 2SA1492 + 2SC3856 or 2SA1695 + 2SC4468 I will be very happy, because they are used in my favourite YAMAHA amplifiers!
Thanks!
Milan
Do you have the schematic to post? What is the output of this amplifier?
I'm not going to be a jerk and call it trash. I will however suggest that you look for something better to build. What your interested in is NOT a 300 watt amplifier and I would suggest something with a better design and certainly a more robust output and driver stage. To be honest I have seen better designs in commercial amplifiers than the one your interested in.
Is this the amplifier ?
This makes smoke only, not sound...
Sajti
I'm not going to be a jerk and call it trash. I will however suggest that you look for something better to build. What your interested in is NOT a 300 watt amplifier and I would suggest something with a better design and certainly a more robust output and driver stage. To be honest I have seen better designs in commercial amplifiers than the one your interested in.
Hello Burnedfingers, yes, I thought his answer was ‘simple’. Sorry I was not more detailed: I’ve found the scheme here Mini Strong Power Amplifier – 100W RMS | Te1
I’ve found lots of schemes, sadly, I cannot decide which one is simple and really good. What I know it should has output 70-120W max.
This makes smoke only, not sound...
Sajti
Obviously you are wrong... Mini Strong Power Amplifier – 100W RMS | Te1
I'm not comfortable with a single pair of the TO-3 plastic case outputs. Several pairs of the outputs would be much better. To be honest there are better amplifiers out there to build that will sound and perform much better. Two pairs of the outputs would probably be safe for a 4 ohm load.
Seriously I would look for something better.
Seriously I would look for something better.
Is this the amplifier ?
if in the shown circuit
J3 = plus
J4 = minus
which seems obvious
then Q1, Q2, Q3, Q4 will not work
???
I would say:
Q4 has to be PNP
Q1,2,3 there must be swapped C-E
Last edited:
Obviously you are wrong... Mini Strong Power Amplifier – 100W RMS | Te1
The schematic attached is terrible. The input stages are complete nightmare. The BC556 will smoke if they will be connected as there mentioned. The current regulator based on BC546, should be pnp as well, as it connected to the positve rail. The 20kohm resistor on the collectok of the ccs will saturate it (ccs try to generate 6mA, which means 120V drop on the 2kohm resistor)
What is the function of Q3?? It's acting like 6-7V zener depending by the breakdown voltage of the B-E diode of the BC546.
There will be large offset on the output as the totally different bias resistors on the input stage.
Anothe issue is the large crossover distortion on the output stage, because of the 0 bias...
Sajti
if in the shown circuit
J3 = plus
J4 = minus
which seems obvious
then Q4, Q3 will not work
???
And the LTP will go smoke for sure...
Sajti
Cerafully checking the pcb, I found, that it will work.
The LTP is OK on the pcb, even wrong in the schematic.
The ccs (Q4) will not work, but there will be current to the LTP across D2-D1-R4-(BE diode of Q4)-R3, it will be around 2mA. So simply R3 would enough to the positive rail.
Q3 is OK on the pcb, even wrong in the schematic. Anyway it will be close to the limit, so I would use stronger.
The output offset will be high, and the crossover distortion will be terrible.
Sajti
The LTP is OK on the pcb, even wrong in the schematic.
The ccs (Q4) will not work, but there will be current to the LTP across D2-D1-R4-(BE diode of Q4)-R3, it will be around 2mA. So simply R3 would enough to the positive rail.
Q3 is OK on the pcb, even wrong in the schematic. Anyway it will be close to the limit, so I would use stronger.
The output offset will be high, and the crossover distortion will be terrible.
Sajti
Here is something from Apex for you to try which has been build and it does work.
100W Ultimate Fidelity Amplifier
100W Ultimate Fidelity Amplifier
the design you are building is class B with high gain ( 33 db ) so the sub 1 watt performance may be poor.
VZaudio and honey badger and Apex amps are much better
VZaudio and honey badger and Apex amps are much better
Not a 300W amplifier. More like 100W into 4 ohms with a single pair of transistors, expect them to go *poof* if you actually do that.
Hi MilanAudio,
Just look at VHex+ Classic down the link in my signature.
It's not like I want to sell something - the boards are inexpensive - but you will have an excellent amplifier, easy to build (full building guide is provided, plus we support the build via email), inexpensive output devices - satisfaction guaranteed 🙂
Just make sure to arrange an appropriate PSU and speakers protection - you will have a great amplifier for a home audio system.
100W output with a single output pair is possible if those outputs are MT-200 ones, like 2SC2922/A1216 from Sanken, but even in that case, they are rather stressed at full swing.
Why looking at some badly engineered designs with lots of promise on the internet, if there is a number of proven designs right here on the forum? 🙄
Cheers,
Valery
Just look at VHex+ Classic down the link in my signature.
It's not like I want to sell something - the boards are inexpensive - but you will have an excellent amplifier, easy to build (full building guide is provided, plus we support the build via email), inexpensive output devices - satisfaction guaranteed 🙂
Just make sure to arrange an appropriate PSU and speakers protection - you will have a great amplifier for a home audio system.
100W output with a single output pair is possible if those outputs are MT-200 ones, like 2SC2922/A1216 from Sanken, but even in that case, they are rather stressed at full swing.
Why looking at some badly engineered designs with lots of promise on the internet, if there is a number of proven designs right here on the forum? 🙄
Cheers,
Valery
Thanks to everybody 🙂 I will check links. I have to do more reading. I hope soon I will build up my dream - great dynamic amplifier! And I hope I won't build up 10 different amplifiers and never will be satisfied.
@cjkpkg very interesting
@vzaichenko I ordered 2 PCBs, I will give a try 🙂 Anyway, I like the quote by Albert Einstein
@cjkpkg very interesting
@vzaichenko I ordered 2 PCBs, I will give a try 🙂 Anyway, I like the quote by Albert Einstein
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