I will try Elna Silmic II in my personal TPA3255 amp
Actually best input cap is no cap. Same as the opamp haha
LM3886 is a good amp but with one chip the power is too "thin" for me...
See the neurochrome modulus 286 measurements on ASR:
Review and Measurements of Neurochrome Modulus-286 Amp | Audio Science Review (ASR) Forum
Hi all.
I have ordered version A, and will try to tune it a little bit.
For opamps I'm considering Burson V6 Supreme Sound Opamp V6 – Burson Audio
In the past 10 years I tested NE5534, LT1364, OPA627, OPA2134, LM49710, AD825, AD843 and some more opamps, and with this new amp I want to try something different.
LT1364 is interesting, nice punchy bass and very good transients. I use them in modded studio sound card together with Black Gates in PS, so with Elna Silmic II (RFS) should sound similar and nice.
LM49720 has overall nice and clean details but somehow the sound is too much sterile, which, together with laid-back soundstage sounds little bit boring.
My personal favorite is AD843 biased into class A. They have more grainy highs than 49720, but I love their musicality and 3D space together with Nichicon Muse KZ.
Yes, another option is to completely omit opamps and input caps and use Lundahl input transformers instead. Guys in thread about TPA3116 tried LL1540 with good results. I dont know, Bursons or Lundahls? Or both? Christmas is coming...
Now, I'm not sure about 4x big electrolytic PS capacitors, as there is no 63V type from great sounding types like ELNA SILMIC II (RFS) or Nichicon Muse (KZ). I love both of them, but they end at 1000uF 50V. TPA class-D amps also sound really good with Panasonic SEPF line, but again, their line ends up at 35V ... And other interesting capacitors e.g. Mundorf MLytic have too large footprint to be used in this PCB (25-35mm diameter). So what good capacitors do you recommend?
Another option is to lower PS voltage to say 36V, with corresponding modifications in PFFB components. That way I could use 50V capacitors from ELNA SILMIC II (RFS) or Nichicon Muse (KZ). I dont need more power than 2x 50W (+ some headroom) so I'm really considering this modification.
Lester, from your experience with TPA3255, is it best to use 48V for optimal sound quality and musicality? Can you recommend or suggest what values of PFFB parts will suit 36V power supply on your PCB?
Thanks to all for your comments.
Rastislav
I have ordered version A, and will try to tune it a little bit.
For opamps I'm considering Burson V6 Supreme Sound Opamp V6 – Burson Audio
In the past 10 years I tested NE5534, LT1364, OPA627, OPA2134, LM49710, AD825, AD843 and some more opamps, and with this new amp I want to try something different.
LT1364 is interesting, nice punchy bass and very good transients. I use them in modded studio sound card together with Black Gates in PS, so with Elna Silmic II (RFS) should sound similar and nice.
LM49720 has overall nice and clean details but somehow the sound is too much sterile, which, together with laid-back soundstage sounds little bit boring.
My personal favorite is AD843 biased into class A. They have more grainy highs than 49720, but I love their musicality and 3D space together with Nichicon Muse KZ.
Yes, another option is to completely omit opamps and input caps and use Lundahl input transformers instead. Guys in thread about TPA3116 tried LL1540 with good results. I dont know, Bursons or Lundahls? Or both? Christmas is coming...
Now, I'm not sure about 4x big electrolytic PS capacitors, as there is no 63V type from great sounding types like ELNA SILMIC II (RFS) or Nichicon Muse (KZ). I love both of them, but they end at 1000uF 50V. TPA class-D amps also sound really good with Panasonic SEPF line, but again, their line ends up at 35V ... And other interesting capacitors e.g. Mundorf MLytic have too large footprint to be used in this PCB (25-35mm diameter). So what good capacitors do you recommend?
Another option is to lower PS voltage to say 36V, with corresponding modifications in PFFB components. That way I could use 50V capacitors from ELNA SILMIC II (RFS) or Nichicon Muse (KZ). I dont need more power than 2x 50W (+ some headroom) so I'm really considering this modification.
Lester, from your experience with TPA3255, is it best to use 48V for optimal sound quality and musicality? Can you recommend or suggest what values of PFFB parts will suit 36V power supply on your PCB?
Thanks to all for your comments.
Rastislav
D
Deleted member 148505
Hi Rastislav,
Thanks for the order, yes I agree that LME49720 has a laidback soundstage, it's good if you are very close to the speakers while listening, like computer audio setup or small bedroom. LM4562 though they say that it has the same internals, is actually quite different, it has more details, slight metallic tinge, and more airy.
Capacitors with low impedance at high frequencies I think will be good for TPA3255 like Nichicon UHW1J222MHD. Panasonic FC is also always mentioned here in DIYAudio, part no is EEU-FC1J182.
48V is the recommended voltage just because it is common and there are lots of available power supplies in the market. But you can use it up to 53V (greater than 53 and the TVS protection diode in my module will start to slightly conduct)
I will measure the 1kHz THD performance at 36 to 40V for TPA3255 and TPA3250 PFFB parts. TPA3250 PFFB part has lower gain so I expect it to have lower noise floor.
Thanks for the order, yes I agree that LME49720 has a laidback soundstage, it's good if you are very close to the speakers while listening, like computer audio setup or small bedroom. LM4562 though they say that it has the same internals, is actually quite different, it has more details, slight metallic tinge, and more airy.
Capacitors with low impedance at high frequencies I think will be good for TPA3255 like Nichicon UHW1J222MHD. Panasonic FC is also always mentioned here in DIYAudio, part no is EEU-FC1J182.
48V is the recommended voltage just because it is common and there are lots of available power supplies in the market. But you can use it up to 53V (greater than 53 and the TVS protection diode in my module will start to slightly conduct)
I will measure the 1kHz THD performance at 36 to 40V for TPA3255 and TPA3250 PFFB parts. TPA3250 PFFB part has lower gain so I expect it to have lower noise floor.
R_fb and R_fb_gnd
Hello JLesterP
You implemented
R_fb 33k and
R_fb_gnd 10k?
Regards
Roger
Hello JLesterP
You implemented
R_fb 33k and
R_fb_gnd 10k?
Regards
Roger
D
Deleted member 148505
Yes correct, we can change it to R_fb =18K, R_fb_gnd = 2K if you want to use it to 36V
Lester, can you please do that on my board? That will be perfect, thank you (If I understood correctly that you offer to swap them before shipping the board.)
Anyway, thanks for great tips.
---
I leave here my short list of big caps that I have found so far, which will fit the board and should sound ok. Maybe someone will find it useful.
Panasonic FC 1800uF/63V (EEU-FC1J182)
Nichicon UHW 2200uF/63V (UHW1J222MHD)
Nichicon UKW 2200uF/63V (UKW1J222MHD)
For lower voltages also:
Panasonic FM 1000uF/50V (EEU-FM1H102)
Elna Silmic II 1000uF/50V (RFS-50V102MK9)
Nichicon Muse UKZ 1000uF/50V (UKZ1H102MHM)
Nichicon UKA 2200uF/50V (UKA1H222MHD)
R.
(If I understood correctly that you offer to swap them before shipping the board.)Anyway, thanks for great tips.
---
I leave here my short list of big caps that I have found so far, which will fit the board and should sound ok. Maybe someone will find it useful.
Panasonic FC 1800uF/63V (EEU-FC1J182)
Nichicon UHW 2200uF/63V (UHW1J222MHD)
Nichicon UKW 2200uF/63V (UKW1J222MHD)
For lower voltages also:
Panasonic FM 1000uF/50V (EEU-FM1H102)
Elna Silmic II 1000uF/50V (RFS-50V102MK9)
Nichicon Muse UKZ 1000uF/50V (UKZ1H102MHM)
Nichicon UKA 2200uF/50V (UKA1H222MHD)
R.
D
Deleted member 148505
Is this better sounding than input transformers? looks more expensive than the LL1540.
Sure will replace it with these values R_fb =18K, R_fb_gnd = 2K.
Thanks for the compatible capacitors!
Sure will replace it with these values R_fb =18K, R_fb_gnd = 2K.
Thanks for the compatible capacitors!
Lester, can you please do that on my board? That will be perfect, thank you
Anyway, thanks for great tips.
---
I leave here my short list of big caps that I have found so far, which will fit the board and should sound ok. Maybe someone will find it useful.
Panasonic FC 1800uF/63V (EEU-FC1J182)
Nichicon UHW 2200uF/63V (UHW1J222MHD)
Nichicon UKW 2200uF/63V (UKW1J222MHD)
For lower voltages also:
Panasonic FM 1000uF/50V (EEU-FM1H102)
Elna Silmic II 1000uF/50V (RFS-50V102MK9)
Nichicon Muse UKZ 1000uF/50V (UKZ1H102MHM)
Nichicon UKA 2200uF/50V (UKA1H222MHD)
R.
Rastislav, you could always try the newly favored darling of the op-amp rolling world, OPA1656.
Cheers, Pete
D
Deleted member 148505
D
Deleted member 148505
Lester, why the need for the bypass cap (possible oscillations? Just noise?). Which op-amp pins?
Regards, Pete
D
Deleted member 148505
In my experience when a DIP-8 socket becomes loose after you do opamp rolling, sensitive opamps tend to oscillate (I experienced it with Myref-rev C LM3886 boards) I prefer the opamp to be directly soldered on the PCB.
There's plenty of real estate under the PCB so might as well add a bypass cap and a LED light. Pins 4 and 8. They are not soldered by the factory so you can opt to get the adapter with only OPA1656 installed.
The adapter PCB, the pins, and the DIP-8 socket are all gold plated types to avoid corrosion. Can't settle for less.
Attachments
Last edited by a moderator:
D
Deleted member 148505
I'm comparing the sound of PFFB and non-PFFB modules.
PFFB with LM4562 is a bit laidback sounding, also has great bass control, I can also hear more voice's echo and noticed some voice separation, I can now identify the timbre of 2 singers blending. I will test it with OPA1656 later.
PFFB with LM4562 is a bit laidback sounding, also has great bass control, I can also hear more voice's echo and noticed some voice separation, I can now identify the timbre of 2 singers blending. I will test it with OPA1656 later.
Attachments
D
Deleted member 148505
D
Deleted member 148505
No it doesn't have a jumper pin for selection, option for SE/BAL inputs is being set by solder jumper under the PCB. (putting a solder blob)
Attachments
Last edited by a moderator:
- Status
- Not open for further replies.