This drawing does not apply.
It shows a DC power supply, (it is labelled +and -), and the device is NOT a transformer because it is also labelled + and -
To boot, diode is connected wrong: + terminal goes to - supply and viceversa.
Another error: it can only work with a 12V supply since 12V diode is connected straight in parallel with supply wires.
Why would they fail?Interesting, but even assuming that it will work (just as I hope for the OP) I sincerely wonder what happens if the diode 1N4007 (or even the resistor) under 240VAC fails.
Back to OP problem:
1) "In principle" NO and NC switches can switch mains voltages as needed because they are 250VAC rated.
Pins 1-2 and 3-4 , pitch whatever pair suits your needs.
2) I want to believe this switch is "latching" , so push ON - push OFF which is the most common and useful application.
Does it click when pushed?
The word "monostable" is improperly used and confusing.
Probably google translated from Chinese or something.
3) the LED is fed DC 12V, typically derived from the device power supply.
Our friend Pimpom suggested one way to feed it current (instead of 12V) derived from mains.
It will probably work, but provide weak illumination, half wave average current through a 150k resistor amounts to meager 0.7 milliamperes or so.
I would think that that Led was designed to get 10-20 mA from a 12V source for a very visible red ring around button BUT datasheet says nothing about it.
Oh well.
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You're welcome. Just remember that success depends on the accuracy of the information you and the seller's site provided.
Very likely. As I said before, I assumed that it meant a momentary contact type. Don't know if this is what the OP wanted.
Correct. I based the value on a safe level for a common 1/4W resistor.
You should have said, "This drawing does not apply to the OP's switch."
And we already knew this, since it applies to the switch I recommended in my link.
As matter of fact the OP himself, he asked me if I had a schematic for a 6 pins (as his switch) since the one I provided him has 5 pins instead.
That is a drawing from the seller's site and generally the drawings that Chinese sellers make are accurate, maybe they are redundant with + and - because customers sometimes drown in a glass of water, but generally they work instead.
Again, the LED on that switch is rated 220V since they are 2 different switches: the OP's one and that I suggested in my link.
Who knows?
If I can decide from my point of view, I would never use it with 220VAC in that scheme containing a 12V rated LED.
It's not a bare LED that is rated for 12V. There are no 12V LEDs. It must have an internal series resistor that will set a certain current for the LED when connected to 12V. Likewise, my circuit uses a resistor to set the current when operated from a much higher voltage while the diode blocks the reverse voltage. You can run an LED from 10,000V if you use the correct resistor value.
What's not wholly satisfactory about my circuit is that the current level is quite low and the LED will be rather dim. This is because a higher current will require a lower resistor value, but that will need a resistor of higher wattage. I was trying to make it as easy as possible for the OP who apparently has a limited background in theory.
The circuit could just as easily use a 68k 1/2W resistor, a 47k 1W resistor or a 22k 2W resistor to get a brighter light. And there are still more somewhat more complex options.
I did not say this.
However, thank you for your explanation which may be useful to many readers.
I really appreciated your effort.
Also I think that there is a way and may be there is another one, generally speaking if/when an alternative exists I choose the simplest path, and the safest one.
If I understand correctly, Chymist has already connected the LED to mains voltage and it remains on all the time.
If he wants the LED follow the switch status, just connect the LED + directly to pin 3.
@ulogon : chrisng was talking about direct connection of the LED pins to the mains. JMFahey pointed out that that's a bad idea. My circuit does not connect the LED pins directly to the mains. The 1N4007 diode converts it to DC and the resistor then drops the voltage to whatever the LED needs while also setting the current.
Please read up about LEDs and how they are connected.
Please read up about LEDs and how they are connected.
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Please try to realize what is said in the context in which it is said, okay?
However, rest assured that I already know enough about LED to post here.
In my opinion, I think we still don't know enough about that ####### switch, in the sense of if it is all really how it seems.
Also because I tried to look for a similar one some time ago and discovered that they are all similar, but different.
Just as an example, this is the scheme posted by OP related to his switch (6 pins, LED ones included).
But will it really be this?
Also because I tried to look for a similar one some time ago and discovered that they are all similar, but different.
Just as an example, this is the scheme posted by OP related to his switch (6 pins, LED ones included).
But will it really be this?
Both these connections apply to DC supplies, here we are talking Mains/AC so simply not related to OP's problem.
As of:
Just as an example, this is the scheme posted by OP related to his switch (6 pins, LED ones included).
We can only analyze what was posted here.
That datasheet drawing shows 4 250VAC rated pins plus 2 polarized 12V Led pins, they also warn that both sets are NOT electrically interconnected, also that Led feed normally comes from "somewhere else".
Clear enough for me.
Only data missing is where is OP feeding his Led from, since it is illuminated.
To boot, permanently illuminated so IT IS fed from "somewhere else"
Clearly not from.Mains.
This thread is wandering because of poor or at least poorly written data:
- Datasheet sounds poorly translated.
- OP has not yet disclosed how he feeds his Led.
On the contrary, datasheet drawing is clear enough.
Hint: it's factory drawn and is NOT translated 😊
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I have used these as mains switches, but only for very low power loads (= transformers under 30-50VA) and always with the LED power separately from the secondary of the transfomer. Also, the pin spacing of the switch pins is very close and you need insulation (heat shrink or tape) on each pin to make it safe.