The German pdf looks like it has some pertinent information, but I don't know how to do translation on a PDF.
If you use the link I provided with Google Chrome it will translate it for you.
It shows much of the same info.
jer 🙂
It shows much of the same info.
jer 🙂
Last edited:
Here is a translation of all of the words starting at the second page.
Sorry I didn't take the time to separate the breaks,
To change
Screw the feet of
Speaker and place it on the
Back.
Make sure that the
Connectors with damaged thereby
are.
Loosen with a 1/8 inch bit the
two screws on the underside of
Remove the cover lid. There
be the Velcro inside
dissolved. It may be that there is something
is difficult.
Be brave as you lift, you can
Velcro dots at the end again
Attach.
Turning now to the speaker
and note the color of the
Cable to the tweeter. Now loosen with a 1/8 inch bit the
Cable from the tweeter.
Now you can get back with a 1/8
Inch bit the four screws from the
Solve tweeter.
Make it safe then to a
Place and make sure that no
Magnetic objects in its
Come close. Now you solve with a 3mm
Vierkantbit first the lower and
upper cross strut. These are not
glued but screwed loosely.
After you solve all
Square screws from the side
Afford.
The side rails are
bonded. In order to bond to
solve using a
correspondingly large
Flat screwdriver and
drive him with cautious
Hammer blows between the
two bars. Make
the fact that they do not like the
Splitting wood.
Try on both sides
to release the bond. Now, carefully remove the
Sidebars with the film
stand out.
Do the same with the
another sidebar.
Now remove the old
Foil and scrape with a
Craft knife or
Ceranfeldschaber the rest
Silicon and the film remains from
Wood frame. With the scraper to remove
the old foam residue
which circumferentially on the
Wood frame are.
The upper portions of the frames
must be thoroughly cleaned
are.
Next, loosen the
Screw the
Crossover and remove
the remaining aluminum and
Strip of adhesive tape. Now relax the side
bolts mounted
until you effortlessly 5
mm wide spacer
between the frame and
Can use clamping bar.
Insert next to each
A clamping screw
Spacers.
Now glue all around the
supplied
Foam rubber strips into the
provided for wells
and press everything carefully
with the role of. Now select them center
the first and last
Magnetic stripe by means of a
Eddings on the wood frame.
This is important to the
Interconnects of the foil precisely
be able to position.
Often these markers
But already there.
Carefully insert the
Bass film into the frame and
align the foil on both
Marks at the top and bottom
from. Make sure the
while the film is not wrinkled
will. Now align the slides
along the rubber washers from
and taking care that
The film is about anywhere.
Now you can use the silicone
to adhere the films
muster. Be sure to
you take too much.
A 5 mm "sausage" sufficient
completely out.
Then place the foil on
the silicone and press the
Film carefully determined.
Please note that the
Film can not go.
Otherwise, the
Waves of change in the film. Next, place the
top bar on the film and
perform all clamping screws
the holes provided
a.
Then make
sufficient weight to the
Sidebar and leave the
Silicone cure. Alternative
You can also
Use clamps.
Make sure that the
Interconnects of the foil precisely
parallel to the magnets
and run at
Pressing the silicone, the
upper and lower mark
does not move. Now let the silicone
one day cure and
repeat the next
Day all the other
Side.
You now have the opportunity
possibly resulting wrinkles
by pulling on the
projecting film to
eliminate. You need the
Films not taut tension,
this then do the
Clamping screws.
Let these pages
one day cure. After both sides
can be cured
First, the upper part
the clamping side
Attach. Use
You also something
Silicone and screw it
then again with the
Square bolts.
Now look at the
opposite
The side holes for the
Fastening of the upper
Bar and beat with
Using the perforated iron
exactly at this point
a hole in the foil.
This is to prevent the
during the subsequent
Screw the
Screws a
Short circuit between the
Traces
cause. Then you can still
the two holes
the upper and lower
Bar and beat
also two holes
through the film. Is therefore
guarantees you the
Final tension the film
without which they can
tears.
Now use the
Double-sided tape
and fix the
Connection pads up and
the bottom of the
Timber carrier. Then
screw the
Side part with some
Back to the silicone
Film.
The upper and untern
Be cappings
not glued but only
screwed. Please
they screw this
first only "hard hand"
to. After completion of the
Resonance frequency adjustment screw
the screws firmly. Cut to now
the cutter a
Hole in the foil where
the Einschlagmutter
and is wear a
small amount of the
supplied Speziallots
out on the tube.
Then they can
the solder having a
Soldering iron and melt
thus represent a safe
Connection.
Screw resist now
the cables of the
Crossover fixed.
Make sure the
not the film
tear. Now fix using
of a cable tacker
with sufficient
The cross-section
Terminal pad and
solder it analogous to
previous.
Connect the
black earth cable
from the connection box
an appropriate cable
sufficient
Cross-section and perform
both cables to the top
Terminal pad. To
fix use
Superglue or
another
Mounting option
Their choice.
Connect both
Cable with the upper
Connection box as in the picture
to see. Pay attention to the correct
Wiring of the conductors.
Measure the connecting
Ohmic resistance of the
Conductors. Between the mass
Connection panel and the
Screw on
Sheet input should ever
the model from about 3.8 ohms
measure.
Now you can turn
of the spacer
remove. Here you can see how
the film spans. Now you can
Resonant frequencies of the film
Set. You will need
an amplifier,
Measurement microphone and a
suitable audio measurement software
e.g. as ARTA, True RTA or
DSSF3
To adjust the
Resonant frequencies
position the
As the first speaker
He freely swing back
or may provide him with assistance
a second person upright.
After you start the
upper portion of the
Speaker and tighten the
Film with the aid of the lateral
Clamping screws so that is
a resonance frequency around 47
Hz is established.
In the middle part of the
Speaker repeat
all there and make a
Resonance frequency of 44 Hz
a.
In the lower range is set
about 38 Hz or less
a.
You like it the eighth
Films not to taut
tension. It is possible that at
to stretch the film taut
tears.
Once you have all three areas
Check you have set
again with
greater distance from the microphone to
Frequency range of 25 to 150
Hz
You should like three or more
less pronounced
See peaks.
Maybe there are still some
Subsequent adjustments to the individual
Necessary frequencies. Now you can use the tweeter
reattach it. Make
attention to the correct polarity
the connection cable
Thus, the main work is done. Now you still check the overall function of
Speaker, the screws make sure all returned to your desk all
Wires are tight and nothing rattles. All protruding pieces of film cut with
a sharp craft knife carefully.
Then you can use the speakers with either the old grille cloth or with
a beautiful, new refer.
In the cover of the speaker, there are four or six Velcro pads. This Velcro pads
hold the cover to the speaker. Fix using the tacker the opposite
the Velcro pads at the same point on the speaker. Thus, at the end of the cover
not expire.
The placement of the cover in the reverse order as the decrease.
We hope you will change the
Films much success!
Cheers !!
jer 🙂
Sorry I didn't take the time to separate the breaks,
To change
Screw the feet of
Speaker and place it on the
Back.
Make sure that the
Connectors with damaged thereby
are.
Loosen with a 1/8 inch bit the
two screws on the underside of
Remove the cover lid. There
be the Velcro inside
dissolved. It may be that there is something
is difficult.
Be brave as you lift, you can
Velcro dots at the end again
Attach.
Turning now to the speaker
and note the color of the
Cable to the tweeter. Now loosen with a 1/8 inch bit the
Cable from the tweeter.
Now you can get back with a 1/8
Inch bit the four screws from the
Solve tweeter.
Make it safe then to a
Place and make sure that no
Magnetic objects in its
Come close. Now you solve with a 3mm
Vierkantbit first the lower and
upper cross strut. These are not
glued but screwed loosely.
After you solve all
Square screws from the side
Afford.
The side rails are
bonded. In order to bond to
solve using a
correspondingly large
Flat screwdriver and
drive him with cautious
Hammer blows between the
two bars. Make
the fact that they do not like the
Splitting wood.
Try on both sides
to release the bond. Now, carefully remove the
Sidebars with the film
stand out.
Do the same with the
another sidebar.
Now remove the old
Foil and scrape with a
Craft knife or
Ceranfeldschaber the rest
Silicon and the film remains from
Wood frame. With the scraper to remove
the old foam residue
which circumferentially on the
Wood frame are.
The upper portions of the frames
must be thoroughly cleaned
are.
Next, loosen the
Screw the
Crossover and remove
the remaining aluminum and
Strip of adhesive tape. Now relax the side
bolts mounted
until you effortlessly 5
mm wide spacer
between the frame and
Can use clamping bar.
Insert next to each
A clamping screw
Spacers.
Now glue all around the
supplied
Foam rubber strips into the
provided for wells
and press everything carefully
with the role of. Now select them center
the first and last
Magnetic stripe by means of a
Eddings on the wood frame.
This is important to the
Interconnects of the foil precisely
be able to position.
Often these markers
But already there.
Carefully insert the
Bass film into the frame and
align the foil on both
Marks at the top and bottom
from. Make sure the
while the film is not wrinkled
will. Now align the slides
along the rubber washers from
and taking care that
The film is about anywhere.
Now you can use the silicone
to adhere the films
muster. Be sure to
you take too much.
A 5 mm "sausage" sufficient
completely out.
Then place the foil on
the silicone and press the
Film carefully determined.
Please note that the
Film can not go.
Otherwise, the
Waves of change in the film. Next, place the
top bar on the film and
perform all clamping screws
the holes provided
a.
Then make
sufficient weight to the
Sidebar and leave the
Silicone cure. Alternative
You can also
Use clamps.
Make sure that the
Interconnects of the foil precisely
parallel to the magnets
and run at
Pressing the silicone, the
upper and lower mark
does not move. Now let the silicone
one day cure and
repeat the next
Day all the other
Side.
You now have the opportunity
possibly resulting wrinkles
by pulling on the
projecting film to
eliminate. You need the
Films not taut tension,
this then do the
Clamping screws.
Let these pages
one day cure. After both sides
can be cured
First, the upper part
the clamping side
Attach. Use
You also something
Silicone and screw it
then again with the
Square bolts.
Now look at the
opposite
The side holes for the
Fastening of the upper
Bar and beat with
Using the perforated iron
exactly at this point
a hole in the foil.
This is to prevent the
during the subsequent
Screw the
Screws a
Short circuit between the
Traces
cause. Then you can still
the two holes
the upper and lower
Bar and beat
also two holes
through the film. Is therefore
guarantees you the
Final tension the film
without which they can
tears.
Now use the
Double-sided tape
and fix the
Connection pads up and
the bottom of the
Timber carrier. Then
screw the
Side part with some
Back to the silicone
Film.
The upper and untern
Be cappings
not glued but only
screwed. Please
they screw this
first only "hard hand"
to. After completion of the
Resonance frequency adjustment screw
the screws firmly. Cut to now
the cutter a
Hole in the foil where
the Einschlagmutter
and is wear a
small amount of the
supplied Speziallots
out on the tube.
Then they can
the solder having a
Soldering iron and melt
thus represent a safe
Connection.
Screw resist now
the cables of the
Crossover fixed.
Make sure the
not the film
tear. Now fix using
of a cable tacker
with sufficient
The cross-section
Terminal pad and
solder it analogous to
previous.
Connect the
black earth cable
from the connection box
an appropriate cable
sufficient
Cross-section and perform
both cables to the top
Terminal pad. To
fix use
Superglue or
another
Mounting option
Their choice.
Connect both
Cable with the upper
Connection box as in the picture
to see. Pay attention to the correct
Wiring of the conductors.
Measure the connecting
Ohmic resistance of the
Conductors. Between the mass
Connection panel and the
Screw on
Sheet input should ever
the model from about 3.8 ohms
measure.
Now you can turn
of the spacer
remove. Here you can see how
the film spans. Now you can
Resonant frequencies of the film
Set. You will need
an amplifier,
Measurement microphone and a
suitable audio measurement software
e.g. as ARTA, True RTA or
DSSF3
To adjust the
Resonant frequencies
position the
As the first speaker
He freely swing back
or may provide him with assistance
a second person upright.
After you start the
upper portion of the
Speaker and tighten the
Film with the aid of the lateral
Clamping screws so that is
a resonance frequency around 47
Hz is established.
In the middle part of the
Speaker repeat
all there and make a
Resonance frequency of 44 Hz
a.
In the lower range is set
about 38 Hz or less
a.
You like it the eighth
Films not to taut
tension. It is possible that at
to stretch the film taut
tears.
Once you have all three areas
Check you have set
again with
greater distance from the microphone to
Frequency range of 25 to 150
Hz
You should like three or more
less pronounced
See peaks.
Maybe there are still some
Subsequent adjustments to the individual
Necessary frequencies. Now you can use the tweeter
reattach it. Make
attention to the correct polarity
the connection cable
Thus, the main work is done. Now you still check the overall function of
Speaker, the screws make sure all returned to your desk all
Wires are tight and nothing rattles. All protruding pieces of film cut with
a sharp craft knife carefully.
Then you can use the speakers with either the old grille cloth or with
a beautiful, new refer.
In the cover of the speaker, there are four or six Velcro pads. This Velcro pads
hold the cover to the speaker. Fix using the tacker the opposite
the Velcro pads at the same point on the speaker. Thus, at the end of the cover
not expire.
The placement of the cover in the reverse order as the decrease.
We hope you will change the
Films much success!
Cheers !!
jer 🙂
Is there a link to a video mentioned in this thread for repairing these speakers? Is there a service manual somewhere?
Hello to all, i'm new in forum. I wanto to share a new video that explain how to change the bass pannel. i hope this can help everyone want to do it.
Apogee bass 5 - YouTube
Vittorio
Apogee bass 5 - YouTube
Vittorio
What a palava talk about complicated, blimey! never seen anything like it before, you need a perfect memory to follow that lot, no wonder they cost a fortune. My diaphragms would cost about a fiver and only take a half hour to replace at the most you wouldn't need any tools apart from a screwdriver, and a pair of scissors.I'm very glad my diaphragms are simple to make and fix. Doing all that would give me a stroke, and the accidents that could happen probably would, and would cost me an arm and a leg. Whereas my diaphragm would only cost a small hair in comparison. Lucky me.
All true But the sound, I have had a lot of Speakers an still do, ESL an Maggys but the Apogee are One of a kind Sound,....
Not saying others ribbon,....yours..... are not great i see your work an look great ....an have sead so,
THanks for all your work....
But look at how small these speakers are... an there good down 35hz an sweet as honey on the mid-hi end..........
Sound better than my Duettas Sg...with a 60watt tube amp anyway.
Just put some all wood stands togather...The Stock MDF stands Suck the life out of the Stages......But Do these Stages sound Better on the floor??.....funny that sound more like the Duettas on the stands!
Time well tell.........Long Live Apogees
Not saying others ribbon,....yours..... are not great i see your work an look great ....an have sead so,
THanks for all your work....
But look at how small these speakers are... an there good down 35hz an sweet as honey on the mid-hi end..........
Sound better than my Duettas Sg...with a 60watt tube amp anyway.
Just put some all wood stands togather...The Stock MDF stands Suck the life out of the Stages......But Do these Stages sound Better on the floor??.....funny that sound more like the Duettas on the stands!
Time well tell.........Long Live Apogees
Attachments
Well, this has been a very needed thread. I purchased a pair of Cal Sigs a few years back, joined the original Apogee Forum to get lots of info and made a big stink by challenging various positions adopted by that community, including Graz's business model, the censoring of the forum's discussions, the universal and, in my opinion, blind support and praise by the Apogee elite crowd towards Graz and the disgust shown by this elite crowd towards any DIY discussion. Of course, there were a few who were brave enough to go against the grain - Davey and Al of this forum, for example.
Yet with all of that rubbish I still use my Aps and admire their design and accomplishment. I was upset that they "developed" buzz soon after I bought them. Although I had read up on the issue, I was mislead by a much more knowledgeable Apogee seller. Yes, you can have buzz and not notice it in the majority of the music you play. In my case I simply changed the foam on the top and bottom braces and all is mostly well. I will try the silicone oil solution when the buzz becomes a "real" issue.
Again, this thread is greatly appreciated. Perhaps one of these days someone here will develop bass panels at a more affordable price for the DIY community. I looked into making my own panels but lost interest due to time constraints.I doubt that will happen though as a commercial product. Graz has put a lot of effort in research and development of his products and I assume they are of top quality - even though they're not all to OEM specifications. That's good for many users, not good for others.
But all that effort and research was not Graz's alone, as he got a lot of help from many people. I would love to replace my ribbons but not at Graz prices. As someone already posted in this thread, Apogees are now expensive speakers. Of course, they were expensive to purchase when they were first produced. Replacement parts are so expensive because that is the only way Graz can sustain his business model for such a niche product - by keeping its perceived value high and selling to those who can afford the cost of ownership.I had hoped that he would offer the Apogee community more of a cost-effective future than what he has but that would cheapen the product!
At any rate, enough ranting. I had that German PDF file translated into English years ago. You may download it here:
http://www.px625.com/temp/Apogee/German-Apogee-rebuild-English.pdf
-Art
Boston, MA
Yet with all of that rubbish I still use my Aps and admire their design and accomplishment. I was upset that they "developed" buzz soon after I bought them. Although I had read up on the issue, I was mislead by a much more knowledgeable Apogee seller. Yes, you can have buzz and not notice it in the majority of the music you play. In my case I simply changed the foam on the top and bottom braces and all is mostly well. I will try the silicone oil solution when the buzz becomes a "real" issue.
Again, this thread is greatly appreciated. Perhaps one of these days someone here will develop bass panels at a more affordable price for the DIY community. I looked into making my own panels but lost interest due to time constraints.I doubt that will happen though as a commercial product. Graz has put a lot of effort in research and development of his products and I assume they are of top quality - even though they're not all to OEM specifications. That's good for many users, not good for others.
But all that effort and research was not Graz's alone, as he got a lot of help from many people. I would love to replace my ribbons but not at Graz prices. As someone already posted in this thread, Apogees are now expensive speakers. Of course, they were expensive to purchase when they were first produced. Replacement parts are so expensive because that is the only way Graz can sustain his business model for such a niche product - by keeping its perceived value high and selling to those who can afford the cost of ownership.I had hoped that he would offer the Apogee community more of a cost-effective future than what he has but that would cheapen the product!
At any rate, enough ranting. I had that German PDF file translated into English years ago. You may download it here:
http://www.px625.com/temp/Apogee/German-Apogee-rebuild-English.pdf
-Art
Boston, MA
The Youtube videos are excellent. In one of them, the guy says that they provide the membrane and even some tools. Did I understand correctly? Who are they? Thanks for the clarification, It would be interesting to know who provides this service.
Well, which video says that?
I know of only one guy, "Patrick" in Germany, who used to make MRTW's and I think even bass panels. But the apparent quality was not good. That was quite a while ago when it was discussed in the old Apogee forum.
I also know of another current guy or two who have made their own panels but I'll let them come forward on their own.
I know of only one guy, "Patrick" in Germany, who used to make MRTW's and I think even bass panels. But the apparent quality was not good. That was quite a while ago when it was discussed in the old Apogee forum.
I also know of another current guy or two who have made their own panels but I'll let them come forward on their own.
Hello artm, the following video implies they offer service right at the beginning:
APOGEE BASS 1 - YouTube
Hope this helps; I could not make up a way of contacting these people. Regards.
APOGEE BASS 1 - YouTube
Hope this helps; I could not make up a way of contacting these people. Regards.
I'm pretty sure that is one of the original Apogee videos made for their dealers.
Which makes it pretty old but still relevant.
Which makes it pretty old but still relevant.
I was talking about the various videos about the Apogee planars on U tube showing you how to strip and replace diaphragms! Very complicated and involved, you would need a good memory to follow.
I have built over 60 easy diaphragms which are a doddle in comparison to the apogees. Mine do not require complicated crossovers etc. I have even built 2 full range planar headphones. Which sound wonderful.
Thanks for that effort! I have a pair of Scintillas (and other speakers) and they really do sound very, very good albeit a real B*\CH to drive properly. I was going to replace the ribbons, and built a roller. Using good foil, easy to roll new ones. The bass panels were to be my next step but after curing the rattle from deteriorating foam, I'll leave them as is for now at least.