I am wondering these so-called audiophile fuse are snake oil stuff. No doubt what they talk about make sense since the power goes through such a tiny wire blah blah (like low awg vs high awg cables).
But I am wondering if the fuse can affect the sound, then why don't we use circuit breakers instead? The amount of contact for the power to flow is greater than any fuse. Wouldnt this overcome the problems of fuses?? Downside is that they are alot more expensive compared to stock fuse but still way cheaper than those "audiophile" ones.
https://www.mouser.sg/datasheet/2/645/D_1410-L1_ENG-1107764.pdf
https://www.mouser.sg/datasheet/2/358/typ_TS-709-1275960.pdf
But I am wondering if the fuse can affect the sound, then why don't we use circuit breakers instead? The amount of contact for the power to flow is greater than any fuse. Wouldnt this overcome the problems of fuses?? Downside is that they are alot more expensive compared to stock fuse but still way cheaper than those "audiophile" ones.
https://www.mouser.sg/datasheet/2/645/D_1410-L1_ENG-1107764.pdf
https://www.mouser.sg/datasheet/2/358/typ_TS-709-1275960.pdf
Fuse is very important. And don't forget Shakhti stones, which, when placed on top of player, amplifier, and speakers, make the sound more holistic and transparent.
If you assume that others see fuses as a problem, you may be surprised. Recognise that things like this are circuit dependent. Parasitic issues are in our control.
I personally don't think fuse is a problem (for power) although some claimed to be able to hear a difference (esp. after run-in). I have never tried any of those audiophile fuse because the price is ridiculous.
I've seen such devices specified with "carry" and "trip" currents. So what's the behavior for currents within the "carry" specification. Hopefully it's purely resistive and a pretty low value at that - something a smaller fraction of an Ohm.
You could always measure it, with a DC supply that has current limit or a variable voltage one and a resistor. Setup a convenient but large fraction of the "carry" current and measure the voltage drop across the fuse. The fuse will be like a resistor of that value.
At least until it blows - hopefully at the "trip" rating.
Perhaps, compared to the speaker cable resistance, it's trivial. Perhaps it's significant - I dont know. I've never taken a 12A fuse, put 10A through it and measured across it.
Unsure what could be more "audiophile" about a fuse; terminals made from the same material as the fusable element - no dissimilar metals welded? One that has measurably less resistance in the "carry" region than your layman's fuse? Gold flashed terminals?
You could always measure it, with a DC supply that has current limit or a variable voltage one and a resistor. Setup a convenient but large fraction of the "carry" current and measure the voltage drop across the fuse. The fuse will be like a resistor of that value.
At least until it blows - hopefully at the "trip" rating.
Perhaps, compared to the speaker cable resistance, it's trivial. Perhaps it's significant - I dont know. I've never taken a 12A fuse, put 10A through it and measured across it.
Unsure what could be more "audiophile" about a fuse; terminals made from the same material as the fusable element - no dissimilar metals welded? One that has measurably less resistance in the "carry" region than your layman's fuse? Gold flashed terminals?
Firstly fuse in the power supply or mains - not an issue as these don't affect the signal (until they pop!)
Fuse in line with speaker output - can cause measurable bass distortion at high power levels due to thermal modulation.
Those breakers have a large internal resistance (unsurprisingly, they have heaters!), of unknown linearity, unlikely to be better than a fuse.
A speaker protection circuit is the best solution I think as the inline resistance is only that of high current relay contacts, being small and metallic (therefore linear).
A lot of people on here think that relay contacts are a bad idea inline. You'll see a lot of SSR circuits discussed on here with a vocal group who consider them superior.
Why not creating this fuses also for the fuse box at home. If they cost 10 times the price of normal fuses, they MUST sound better. Perhaps my Hair dryer will sound more „transperent“ too.
But if you want to go audiophile, there is only one way. The best sounding fuse is no fuse 🙂 (just a joke, dont try this at your own home).
But if you want to go audiophile, there is only one way. The best sounding fuse is no fuse 🙂 (just a joke, dont try this at your own home).
IMHO, this is the only "audiophile" fuse I will buy. Saw pple selling on as "audio grade" fuse. At this price, I can still accept it.
0001.2712.22 Schurter | Mouser Singapore
These are definitely snake oil to me!!
Audiophile Fuses - VH Audio
Three things to consider when buying "audiophile" fuses:
1] is the fuse 'UL' or other safety agency listed?
2] will the product manufacturer honor the warranty, with such a fuse?
3] will the fuse manufacture replace the product, if the product is damaged?
1] is the fuse 'UL' or other safety agency listed?
2] will the product manufacturer honor the warranty, with such a fuse?
3] will the fuse manufacture replace the product, if the product is damaged?
Speedskater, all 3 of your questions are not feasable, sorry.
1 Advertising as UL Approved can be faked.
2 Manufacturer warranty can be voided if internal fuses are replaced by non techs.
3 Fuse manufacturers cannot be held liable for equipment that was serviced "at your own risk".
1 Advertising as UL Approved can be faked.
2 Manufacturer warranty can be voided if internal fuses are replaced by non techs.
3 Fuse manufacturers cannot be held liable for equipment that was serviced "at your own risk".
And something in between??
https://www.mouser.sg/Littelfuse/Ci...-Fuses/285-Series/_/N-ba8h0?P=1z0zlhtZ1yzv7eu
😉
1) Regular Fuses are made out of very thin wire, so thin that it is *designed* to melt under quite low current, much lower than what wires connected to it can easily carry.
While Audiophile Fuses are made out of .......
Aw, forget it 🙄
2) Fuses (Standard or Audiophile) are made out of thin wire, weighing milligrams, so it can be heated with minimal energy, minimal voltage drop, and inherently quite fast.
So much so, that if needed you must add some thermal mass to slow them down.
Circuit breakers instead must first heat up some kind of heater element, which must NOT blow, so by definition it must have relatively higher thermal mass.
It might heat itself (thin bimetallic strip) OR heat a separate one, all of this is slow or slower and needs much higher power than a fuse to work.
And if you need fast acting, you must add a coil/solenoid so it acts magnetically, a specialized form of a relay, so now you are adding an *inductor* in series with current.
Clearly it will have way more influence on sound (if placed at a sensible point that is, not much if on mains) than a humble low resistance microscopic inductance short piece of wire.
3) I checked the wonder fuse site.
You can´t make that stuff out 🙄
Didn´t read long enough to reach the "needs 180 hour burn-in for best results" line but no doubt it´s there somewhere.
Why?
What can be done?
It would behoove this thread to develop a point or it may find itself in the Lounge, or closed.
The point is, a fuse is a fuse and in power supplies expensive ones will make no audible difference. Its snake oil. I wouldnt be surprised if the audiophool one are regular fuses with there own shrink wrap.
Regarding this, the datasheet says medical. So i believe these are high quality fuse, but its not going to make a difference in terms of sound quality.
I believe the difference is more of medical equipment. Eg, able to sustain vibrations, thermal shock, magnetic inferference (eg. MRI scanners), gold and rohdium plating protect against corrosion etc... considering how critical medical instruments are we dont want the fuse to fail prematurely.
So we are paying for the construction and testing of the fuse to conform to certain standards.
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Ya know, well before the internet came along, fuses were not something even discussed.
You chose the right amperage/type for the circuit, and moved on, and life was nice.
No one babbled on about "boutique" stuff, there wasn't any.
No one said a thing about "sound quality" of fuses - that was dreamed up recently by people preying on fools who were uninformed about what fuses actually do.
Today, fuses have "color coding", made of materials that some people can't pronounce, and a plethora of other wild "benefits".
This also goes for the common rectifier, be it tube or silicon.
Wildness of marketing, discussion threads across loads of websites.
Even arguments.
Step back, look at the whole scene...... someone made nutbags out of masses of people.
You chose the right amperage/type for the circuit, and moved on, and life was nice.
No one babbled on about "boutique" stuff, there wasn't any.
No one said a thing about "sound quality" of fuses - that was dreamed up recently by people preying on fools who were uninformed about what fuses actually do.
Today, fuses have "color coding", made of materials that some people can't pronounce, and a plethora of other wild "benefits".
This also goes for the common rectifier, be it tube or silicon.
Wildness of marketing, discussion threads across loads of websites.
Even arguments.
Step back, look at the whole scene...... someone made nutbags out of masses of people.