B1 Buffer in the UK
Hi,
well I have ordered my boards with the matched JFETS from Nelson and I am installing an IR Remote Controlled Pot (Alps Blue Velvet), using the boards from Elliott in Oz..
Now, the only thing I need before turning on the soldering iron is a good supplier for the remaining bits and pieces here in the UK... in particular for the transistors which need some further matching.
Can anyone recommend a UK-based supplier ?
Thanks for the help
Hi,
well I have ordered my boards with the matched JFETS from Nelson and I am installing an IR Remote Controlled Pot (Alps Blue Velvet), using the boards from Elliott in Oz..
Now, the only thing I need before turning on the soldering iron is a good supplier for the remaining bits and pieces here in the UK... in particular for the transistors which need some further matching.
Can anyone recommend a UK-based supplier ?
Thanks for the help
Completed the B1 last night. Hooked it up and enjoyed the music. My VA super pass is on the market as well as a few other diy pre's. Paired up with a chipamp clone from BB. Of course jamming at 11:30pm did not make my wife very happy. Pictures to follow later today.
It looks great. I am guessing something like a Hammond enclosure with some black BBQ paint.
Hey TeaBag I will try out that last board you have if no one else is up to it.
Uriah
Hey TeaBag I will try out that last board you have if no one else is up to it.
Uriah
To me it looked like a fiber optic termination / patch panel box used in telco.
But I may be wrong.
Motorized Pots
Hi,
I am trying to use an Alps motorised pot.
The only values that I can get in Linear taper are 10K or 100K.
Can anyone advise on the best choice here, assuming that I stay motorised of course?
There does not seem to be much problem getting log taper values... but linear seems to be what's wanted!
What would be the result if I used Log and has anyone tried this?
Thanks once again for the help
Hi,
I am trying to use an Alps motorised pot.
The only values that I can get in Linear taper are 10K or 100K.
Can anyone advise on the best choice here, assuming that I stay motorised of course?
There does not seem to be much problem getting log taper values... but linear seems to be what's wanted!
What would be the result if I used Log and has anyone tried this?
Thanks once again for the help
Hey Budwiser, nice work!
I hope mine comes out as nicely.
I have all the parts gathered save for the enclosure which I think is going to be a Par Metal, and I still need some standoffs.
I should be able to devote some time to building it once I make sure This old house doesn't fall down during the winter, which means all time gets sucked into the black hole for now.
Glad to hear you liked the way it sounds. Maybe it is the way it doesn't sound? If you get my drift.
Keith
"It was St. Alfonzos pancake breakfast, where I stole the margarine."
FZ
I hope mine comes out as nicely.
I have all the parts gathered save for the enclosure which I think is going to be a Par Metal, and I still need some standoffs.
I should be able to devote some time to building it once I make sure This old house doesn't fall down during the winter, which means all time gets sucked into the black hole for now.
Glad to hear you liked the way it sounds. Maybe it is the way it doesn't sound? If you get my drift.
Keith
"It was St. Alfonzos pancake breakfast, where I stole the margarine."
FZ
If anyone is interested here are a few of my parts choices. I decided to run with a stereo attenuator so I got a quality 25K unit from Goldpoint. I am running a higher voltage 30volt wall wart I already had lying around from an obsolete Lowrance GPS unit, so I went with the 50 volt 6800uF Panasonic electrolytic main caps. I chose DynamiCaps for the film caps because they are overall my bang for the buck favorite. I went with PRP non magnetic resistors as they have sounded great in other applications and Vampire gold over OFC copper inputs and output RCA's. There are a few other details.
Any comments?
Keith
Any comments?
Keith
Keith,
With that 30V it would be interesting to use a LM317 and a variable resistor so you can tweak voltage to your preference, assuming that there is any difference in sound on a transparent buffer 🙂
Uriah
With that 30V it would be interesting to use a LM317 and a variable resistor so you can tweak voltage to your preference, assuming that there is any difference in sound on a transparent buffer 🙂
Uriah
If you know your target output voltage and the load value,
you can tweak the supply for minimum distortion with any
given JFET. I have a short article coming up next month,
called "The Sweet Spot"
😎
you can tweak the supply for minimum distortion with any
given JFET. I have a short article coming up next month,
called "The Sweet Spot"
😎
That would make a really nice front end for a L-C-R PLLXO, a la Marchand.
Is there perhaps any changes in ETA?
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My set up is standard B1 (from pass) using 10uF film caps on the output (as per spec) and I'm using a lightspeed attenuator. This is feeding from a variety of sources and goes into an F5 and from there to sachiko horns.
I've been comparing back and forth with my previous preamp (aikido 24V) which also has a lightpseed, although it the earlier version with a fixed shunt resistor to ground. I seem to have a fairly significant bass cut with the B1. Its not completely gone, but just it sounds a little more lean than the valve pre in the lower end. Amazing clarity and soundstage etc..... but just its a little lean. I've also tried it into some 2A3 monoblocks and get the same result.
So I'm wondering if theres anything I should go back over on my build? I made it pretty much as per standard. Should I try alternate output caps do you think?
Fran
I've been comparing back and forth with my previous preamp (aikido 24V) which also has a lightpseed, although it the earlier version with a fixed shunt resistor to ground. I seem to have a fairly significant bass cut with the B1. Its not completely gone, but just it sounds a little more lean than the valve pre in the lower end. Amazing clarity and soundstage etc..... but just its a little lean. I've also tried it into some 2A3 monoblocks and get the same result.
So I'm wondering if theres anything I should go back over on my build? I made it pretty much as per standard. Should I try alternate output caps do you think?
Fran