Basic help needed to open a case

Thanks for your thoughts.

It seems like the manufacturer has cunningly designed the case to be tamper proof by those who shouldn't be poking around inside. Brilliant.

Maybe try using the vacum lifters on the rear corners of the lid and lift up as if rotating around the front edge. if that doesn't work back out the top rear panel screws and try again.

You really need to be posting some HD photos to stop wasting time.
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: 1 users
It seems like the manufacturer has cunningly designed the case to be tamper proof by those who shouldn't be poking around inside. Brilliant.
+1000
Shenzhen Audio page is reasonably written ... for a Chinese page that is :rolleyes: :oops:

That said, google translated Engrish still raises its ugly head.
Add to that typical Chinese marketing/praising where we don´t see much relation to product being promoted, such as:
  • " the left and right channels are divided into regions, and the left and right separation is good"
  • complete four-way architecture
  • Gustard P26 real shot: Rigorous design, reasonable layout, nice workmanship and solid materials
  • Machine soft control and volume control
That said, I can not take this as a real encouragement, but simply about "what else can we write to fill the Ad better"? :
"Two in-line LM49860 dual op amps can be replaced to increase playability"
Define "playability" :rolleyes:

Specially because now:
"Because the DIP8 had been discontinued, the new batch LME49860 was changed to SO-8 version without op-amp socket."

Looks like that specific feature was not SO important after all, I wouldn´t lose sleep over it ... since manufacturers/designers don´t either.
 
It seems like the manufacturer has cunningly designed the case to be tamper proof by those who shouldn't be poking around inside.
I think it is for a purely aesthetic question only (a great deal IMO): as a matter of fact it is so beautiful, completely smooth and without any visible screw IMO2.
Magnetic?
Looking around I absolutely convinced myself that the type of fixing is magnetic.

I bet that if the OP simply tries to insert a plastic blade (an old credit card thinned?) and to make levers then the top cover rises without damaging itself at all.
 
Observing these 2 pics, the 3 side holes are clearly visible (it is not P26, but the brand is): the lateral-front side has an oval hole (where probably it hooks a small vertical scrolling hook) and then there are 2 circular hole I guess with magnetic nail (or even unlikely pressure buttons).

So it should start to leverage from the lateral-anterior side upwards because in all probability the horizontal scrolling of the top towards the rear side is blocked by the hook in the oval hole.


sshot1.png
sshot2.png
 
Last edited:
It seems like the manufacturer has cunningly designed the case to be tamper proof by those who shouldn't be poking around inside. Brilliant.

Maybe try using the vacum lifters on the rear corners of the lid and lift up as if rotating around the front edge. if that doesn't work back out the top rear panel screws and try again.

You really need to be posting some HD photos to stop wasting time.
You missed my earlier posts on the photos and that I said I gave up. I appreciate the advice. I don't want to risk breaking something or scratching it. It is a new unit. Many of you are discouraging this experiment.
 
  • Like
Reactions: 1 user
You have a much better chance of causing damage if you replace SMD chips again and again, compared to those on a socket.

Good you gave up.

I think it may be a snap fit assembly, you can check for the presence of screws, or lack of them with a magnetic screw driver or similar object.
 
Well this is progress. You can take a photo after all and actual have the preamp. Next take photos of all the panels so we can see the screws.

By the way you are new here. Not being able to take a lid off is unusual to be polite. Asking for help while ignoring advice doesn't make you look genuine. Then insulting the generosity of members trying to help you for free doesn't do yourself any favours.
 
Last edited:
  • Like
Reactions: 1 user
You missed my earlier posts on the photos and that I said I gave up. I appreciate the advice. I don't want to risk breaking something or scratching it. It is a new unit. Many of you are discouraging this experiment.
Good.
Specially because in any case the "experiment" won´t lead to any improvement anyway.

All ruler flat vanishing distortion fast devices sound the same, by definition.
Much to the chagrin of Marketers, who claim "buy MY ruler flat, which is flatter than your ruler flat" ;)

For those who may wish to "roll" SOIC-packaged opamps, into gear equipped with DIP-8 sockets:

Sadly it looks like it´s the other way round:

"Because the DIP8 had been discontinued, the new batch LME49860 was changed to SO-8 version without op-amp socket."
 
Well this is progress. You can take a photo after all and actual have the preamp. Next take photos of all the panels so we can see the screws.

By the way you are new here. Not being able to take a lid off is unusual to be polite. Asking for help while ignoring advice doesn't make you look genuine. Then insulting the generosity of members trying to help you for free doesn't do yourself any favours.
Oh, cut the c r a p
Now you are becoming pushy and insulting.
 
Nice net drag there. A picture is worth a thousand words. That looks like the begining to an answer. Were there any photos of the underneath side?
Figuring out what is implied is obviously not your strong suit.
Well thank goodness you are so good at implying meaning. I'm not as smart as you sorry and I'm not even psychic. Some data will help me to help you if you still want to roll opamps. Your pre might have the sockets and it might even sound better with the Sparkos.

When you post photos of all your panels I think the answer will reveal itself. Did you get the hint about flipping your lid? Or are you still all topsy turvy? Check it out. :)