Behringer B2031P - Impressed but Disappointed

My questions are:

1. Is there anything I can do to the 2031 to make it punchier? For example, I have read that the vents on the 2031 are not there to improve the bass response. Therefore you can plug them with cotton, which actually improves them since it eliminates some diffraction effects.
In that case, I wondered if you could just seal the vents with duct tape, making it a sealed design, and then stuff the boxes with polyfil or something to improve the bass response? Does that make any sense?


Then again, maybe the two things are mutually exclusive: Maybe when you have perfect detail you lack punch, and when you have punch you sacrifice detail?

2. Does anyone know of an off-the-shelf or DIY design that I could get for the same money (about $200), that would have the detail of the 2031 but the punchiness of the OSMTM? I suspect not, or else the 2031 would not be getting amount of the attention it's been getting. I might be able to go $300 or so if I saved for a few months, but that's about all I can personally justify spending on speakers in my situation.

Any suggestions would be much appreciated.

These speaker are both punchy in the bass and detailed.
Krix experience sound - Home Entertainment - Product Detail - Neuphonix

You could probably do a diy design close to the money you want to spend
 
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I like Chris (WmAx)'s suggestions here:

Audioholics Home Theater Forums - View Single Post - Noobie Looking to Build First Audiophile Speaker System

I would guess that putting the damping material + concrete board on the outside of the speaker would be better if you wish to keep them ported. Perhaps if you're going to seal them and cross to a sub, then putting the extra damping + wall stiffening (to create the CLD sandwich) on the inside maybe fine.

If you paint the concrete panels with truckbed liner (I like the one by Rustoleum) I don't think it'd look bad at all.

You could attach it (besides just the contact adhesive) with black hex bolts on the corners (do NOT bolt anywhere but the corners edges, or you will defeat the CLD).

I also like the idea of replacing the ports with a passive radiator on each side of the speaker 😛

If it hasn't been done already, I should figure out what length of either 2" or 3" "Precision Port" is an appropriate replacement for the crappy front slot difracto-ports....

EDIT: Krix, those Neuphonix speakers do look like good clone candidates. There were some Peerless "buyout" woofers that look like the ones they use for $10 ea. a while back at P.E.
 
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This has been inactive for a while but I ran across it and wanted to add that I think what 'punch' in a speaker is a combination of high efficiency and tight impulse response. If you have a sloppy impulse response, the punch is reduced because it is diffused in time. Impulse means as much energy delivered in the shortest amount of time for a percussive drum, bass guitar pick, etc. the high efficiency just provides more energy for given amp power.

A sealed alignment, a Karlson, or Karlsonator, or sealed spiral TL all have great tight impulse response and good punch.
 
This has been inactive for a while but I ran across it and wanted to add that I think what 'punch' in a speaker is a combination of high efficiency and tight impulse response. If you have a sloppy impulse response, the punch is reduced because it is diffused in time. Impulse means as much energy delivered in the shortest amount of time for a percussive drum, bass guitar pick, etc. the high efficiency just provides more energy for given amp power.

A sealed alignment, a Karlson, or Karlsonator, or sealed spiral TL all have great tight impulse response and good punch.

This is mostly wrong.

BTW a Karlson is possibly the worst speaker ever made.
 
... But then I started noticing that, while they are nearly perfect (to my ears) with classical and jazz, they come across as flat with some rock-and-roll songs .....

recordings are very important tool for judging a speaker. It is not easy to find the more telling one ... but usually classical and jazz especially from some labels are very very good indeed and if they sound good this means that the speaker is also good.
Usually Patricia Barber albums are very well recorded. I use often Cafe Blue to check speakers ... 🙄
 
I actually find this to be a compliment.

For instance, thirteen years ago, I put Unity horns in my car. After listening for two days, my biggest takeaway was that a lot of my recordings sound like crap.

It was one of the things that led to threads like this : The Preference for Direct Radiators

In a nutshell, a Unity horn with controlled directivity does a good job of eliminating the early reflections that color the sound. It's effect is similar to treating a room, it gets the 'sound of the room' out of the equation.

But a lot of recordings are crappy. And due to that, the early reflections can add some ambience that they lack.

This was particularly noticeable on the Danley SH50s: some recordings had width and depth, while others were just straight-up mono.

And just to make things extra-fun, every generation seems to have a different set of terrible recording flaws. For instance, songs from the 80s and 90s tend to have a rolled off treble and are frequently mono, or close to it. A good example of this is The Smiths; they had great songs, but all of them sound like they were played over an AM radio and recorded in mono. In the 00s, music producers started to put out recordings with a wider bandwidth, which means more treble and bass than earlier generations. But at the same time, they began to compress the hell out of them. Not just digital compression, but analog compression to, aka "The Loudness Wars."