Hi folks!
I am resuming electronics as a hobby, after + 20 years without practicing. I have some vintage equipment that has been idle for a long time. Taking advantage of a little more free time due to the pandemic, I will restore 2 amplifiers, 1 pre amp, 1 receiver, and I want to use good components (I know they will never become hi-ends, but I want to do the best upgrade possible, using common sense and appropriate cost-benefit components). Well, my question is, what better internal signal cable can I use? That is immune to noise, that carries the most complete signal possible from end to end? What have you been using for that?
In Brazil it seems that we don't have many options, for example, this seems to be the best available:
Cabo Automacao KMP AF AWG 2x18 - D&D Componentes Eletronicos
am I on the right track as to the type of line cable? what do friends recommend?
Sorry for my humble English, thanks for the comments.
I am resuming electronics as a hobby, after + 20 years without practicing. I have some vintage equipment that has been idle for a long time. Taking advantage of a little more free time due to the pandemic, I will restore 2 amplifiers, 1 pre amp, 1 receiver, and I want to use good components (I know they will never become hi-ends, but I want to do the best upgrade possible, using common sense and appropriate cost-benefit components). Well, my question is, what better internal signal cable can I use? That is immune to noise, that carries the most complete signal possible from end to end? What have you been using for that?
In Brazil it seems that we don't have many options, for example, this seems to be the best available:
Cabo Automacao KMP AF AWG 2x18 - D&D Componentes Eletronicos
am I on the right track as to the type of line cable? what do friends recommend?
Sorry for my humble English, thanks for the comments.
I have used balanced mic & shielded RCA cable on my 40 year old Pioneer gear.
I believe the best improvements would be:
Clean all the boards, pots & switches.
Inspect broken / cracked solder pads
Clean & paint rusted chassis & covers.
Change all those dried elkos.
Don't mess with ceramic caps in tuner sections or You will have a hard time aligning it.
I believe the best improvements would be:
Clean all the boards, pots & switches.
Inspect broken / cracked solder pads
Clean & paint rusted chassis & covers.
Change all those dried elkos.
Don't mess with ceramic caps in tuner sections or You will have a hard time aligning it.
I find in amps mixers & preamps, located inside a steel box with proper RF filters at inputs and outputs, that the best cable for internal wiring is the wire. I like PTFE or TFE insulation because I tend to burn insulation as I wave the soldering iron around, but if you are dead accurate with your iron PVC will work.
RF filters like 33 pf disk caps need to soldered to the input jack, less the wire become a little transmitting antenna on the way from jack over to the circuit board. 5 to 10 turn coils series the output need to be close to output terminal, for the same reason.
RF filters like 33 pf disk caps need to soldered to the input jack, less the wire become a little transmitting antenna on the way from jack over to the circuit board. 5 to 10 turn coils series the output need to be close to output terminal, for the same reason.
2x 18 AWG shielded cable will be basically as thick as mains lead and hard to work with. I'd prefer the thinner stuff, like 2x26AWG or 2x24AWG. That said, this still isn't quite the ideal cable for unbalanced audio leads, which would be thin coax. Not exactly easy to get ahold of though. You can try looking for specific audio cable.
That said, if the device was competently built to begin with, internal audio cabling should be the least of your worries. Dealing with bad contact, corrosion and bad electrolytics is likely to make up the bulk of work required.
That said, if the device was competently built to begin with, internal audio cabling should be the least of your worries. Dealing with bad contact, corrosion and bad electrolytics is likely to make up the bulk of work required.
Mogami W2944 works well inside amps for a shielded option. CAT5 works well if no shielding is required and runs are short.
Hi,
thank you all for your answers. All are helping a lot to make the choice. Really, there is a better thing to do in the equipment besides cables. Paint the chassis, resolve bad contact, and change the electrolytics. I need even better the precision for welding. About TFE cables it is practically impossible to find in Brazil. I managed with the tip of Rabbitz to find Mogami W2944 in BR, oddly enough, but at U $ 2.99 / per meter (1 meter = 3.28ft). I found it expensive but I must try it to see the results. Thanks again for the help!
thank you all for your answers. All are helping a lot to make the choice. Really, there is a better thing to do in the equipment besides cables. Paint the chassis, resolve bad contact, and change the electrolytics. I need even better the precision for welding. About TFE cables it is practically impossible to find in Brazil. I managed with the tip of Rabbitz to find Mogami W2944 in BR, oddly enough, but at U $ 2.99 / per meter (1 meter = 3.28ft). I found it expensive but I must try it to see the results. Thanks again for the help!