Starting the research well ahead of time and right here obviously the best possible place to do so🙂
I have been reading a lot here but there is so many posts it is hard to dig through it all so I hope those with the great experience in these things can help me out.
I will not likely get to the speaker build until mid fall, depending on weather so no big rush.
These will obviously be very efficient and am sure the Baby Sophia 10w P/P amp will drive them well, it has been fully upgraded and a great amp but I want to explore a low power class Amp build for them as well. I have no specs on the current draw on the BS amp so will have to measure it once I have it setup when speakers are done.
We are in a 434sq ft RV, seating is about 8-9 ft from front of speakers, 8 ft ceilings, two apposing slides just past where the speakers will sit, going to need some treatments of course.
Requirements:
Size, as small as reasonable.
Mono or Stereo, likely try both
Power, not likely to need more than 5 to 10 watts, could be less but not a big factor.
Lowest energy use as reasonable, on the grid but plan to go off grid eventually if I live long enough.
SMD? That would be a bit tough with my about to turn 73 eyes but I have steady hands and patience so a good LED magnifier might be all I need.
Needs to be in a case, PS internal or external, likely external as need small case(s) size as reasonable.
Cost, a few hundred to $800 or more if needed? That is for two mono amps could go up to around $1500 if bought over a few months or I save my pennies up.
Sound quality, the very best I can do for the requirements above.
Thanks,
Rick
I have been reading a lot here but there is so many posts it is hard to dig through it all so I hope those with the great experience in these things can help me out.
I will not likely get to the speaker build until mid fall, depending on weather so no big rush.
These will obviously be very efficient and am sure the Baby Sophia 10w P/P amp will drive them well, it has been fully upgraded and a great amp but I want to explore a low power class Amp build for them as well. I have no specs on the current draw on the BS amp so will have to measure it once I have it setup when speakers are done.
We are in a 434sq ft RV, seating is about 8-9 ft from front of speakers, 8 ft ceilings, two apposing slides just past where the speakers will sit, going to need some treatments of course.
Requirements:
Size, as small as reasonable.
Mono or Stereo, likely try both
Power, not likely to need more than 5 to 10 watts, could be less but not a big factor.
Lowest energy use as reasonable, on the grid but plan to go off grid eventually if I live long enough.
SMD? That would be a bit tough with my about to turn 73 eyes but I have steady hands and patience so a good LED magnifier might be all I need.
Needs to be in a case, PS internal or external, likely external as need small case(s) size as reasonable.
Cost, a few hundred to $800 or more if needed? That is for two mono amps could go up to around $1500 if bought over a few months or I save my pennies up.
Sound quality, the very best I can do for the requirements above.
Thanks,
Rick
I have several Pass amps, they are all good. But you can't go wrong with the F4 with a YICDAF4 front end. That preamp really makes the F4 shine.
Baby Sophia 10w P/P amp
Called a SET (single-ended triode, but spec say PP. 10W Class A is doable either SET normPP, but likley optimistic.
https://sophiaelectric.com/pages/pages-amp-specification-babyamp
Looks like one of the many small EL84 amps out of China, hard to make them bad.
First amp to come tomind is the ACA mini.
dave
I have several Pass amps, they are all good
my expereience a well/
dave
Class A is probably off the table then if you want the most efficient, lowest energy usage.Lowest energy use as reasonable, on the grid but plan to go off grid eventually if I live long enough.
jeff
Thanks!
The SET on this particular amp does no stand for single ended, it means something like Sophia Electric. _______, it is indeed a Push Pull amp and drove my Edgarhorn Slimlines exceptionally well.
The Russian Military 6P1T tubes are quite good and last a very long time, I have a bunch of spares.
The NOS 5670 driver tubes are quite good and robust as well but there are others that are supposedly better, I will try a few if it will drive the speakers OK.
---------
I have been looking at the AMP Camp Amp, I like the size and there seems to be a number of upgrades for it that might be intesting to play around with and it is not to big, larger than I prefer but still not huge.
I will look at the F4, as long as not a big amp...., from what I can see so far it looks rather large.
Thanks again!
Rick
The SET on this particular amp does no stand for single ended, it means something like Sophia Electric. _______, it is indeed a Push Pull amp and drove my Edgarhorn Slimlines exceptionally well.
The Russian Military 6P1T tubes are quite good and last a very long time, I have a bunch of spares.
The NOS 5670 driver tubes are quite good and robust as well but there are others that are supposedly better, I will try a few if it will drive the speakers OK.
---------
I have been looking at the AMP Camp Amp, I like the size and there seems to be a number of upgrades for it that might be intesting to play around with and it is not to big, larger than I prefer but still not huge.
I will look at the F4, as long as not a big amp...., from what I can see so far it looks rather large.
Thanks again!
Rick
F2 comes to mind, if current source amps are appropriate
and they are in most cases, with FR drivers
and they are in most cases, with FR drivers
F2 comes to mind
I would love to build an F2, I have not seen PCB's for sale anywhere. Do you know where to purchase F2 PCB's?
Forum member kinku had some for sale a few years ago now F2 and F2J - try him with a PM , he might have a couple left.
This was his thread:
This was his thread:
F2 / F2J Clone PCBs
Hi,
I have a pair of F2J pcb( separate left and right channels) and CRC power supply board for sale. Buyer has to pay for shipping and paypal fees.Please remember these boards are long 28cm.
These boards can handle boutique caps for output and inputs as there is provision for connecting capacitors with unusual dimensions( need to be outside the board). Standard caps on board are for polystyrene and poly-prop.
A mouser component list will be send with boards.
Both amp PCB have holes drilled for fitting 4U heatsink from DIYaudio store.
Power supply board has...
Hi,
I have a pair of F2J pcb( separate left and right channels) and CRC power supply board for sale. Buyer has to pay for shipping and paypal fees.Please remember these boards are long 28cm.
These boards can handle boutique caps for output and inputs as there is provision for connecting capacitors with unusual dimensions( need to be outside the board). Standard caps on board are for polystyrene and poly-prop.
A mouser component list will be send with boards.
Both amp PCB have holes drilled for fitting 4U heatsink from DIYaudio store.
Power supply board has...
I know class A is not efficient, neither is my tube amp, just want to try one and a low powered one would not be that bad.
I plan to do a really good class D to try out as well and then I can use it for just having music playing most of the time and then play with the class A and or tube when I want to sit and really listen, which I do not do that much of, I prefer to work on projects.
Looked into the F2, big amp, I hope to hear from Nelson and see if he recommends anything.
Mark Audio MA200, again will be in the Fugel-Horn Joan with much attention paid to getting the stuffing just right.
I plan to do a really good class D to try out as well and then I can use it for just having music playing most of the time and then play with the class A and or tube when I want to sit and really listen, which I do not do that much of, I prefer to work on projects.
Looked into the F2, big amp, I hope to hear from Nelson and see if he recommends anything.
Mark Audio MA200, again will be in the Fugel-Horn Joan with much attention paid to getting the stuffing just right.
RE | 6.8 Ohms |
---|---|
FS | 33.0003 Hx |
SD | 0.0206 m2 |
VAS | 65.1957 L |
CMS | 1.0990 mm/N |
MMD | 19.4093 g |
MMS | 21.1652 g |
BL | 8.5460 T/M |
QMS | 2.239 |
QES | 0.4086 |
QTS | 0.3455 |
RMS | 1.96 WM |
SPL | 90.26 dB |
POWER (NOMINAL) | 50 Watts |
X MAX | 9 mm (one way) |
COLOUR | Midnight Copper Thanks, Rick |
I am interested in GanFET as well but have not seen any DIY on them but then again, never really looked into it so will do it next🙂
Zenductor. Easy to build, will work with MA200. Not that inefficient, as it uses an inductor, thus you get away with a switchmode psu, or you could power it directly by batteries. 🙂
Zenductor II runs on an external brick PS, and seems to meet the wish list requirements. I've seen something about a kit in the works... (???). I suspect these won't be provided with a chassis, so you choose your own to meet your needs and demands. Not a problem for diy folks of course..
Zenductor looks good except it creates a lot of heat🙁 Though that is not a worry in the winter and in the summer I run a ducted Evap cooler which is very effective and draws just 1.5 amps of current compared to the AC units I removed that used 24 amps. It would be on the far end of the RV where the cooling is the least effective though, even my custom built SFF computer would cause it to heat up a bit more than I like as all right at my desk.
So, I need to find just the right amp project that works with FR, draws the least current for the amount of heat it produces and sounds the best possible.
I very much appreciate everyone's input, thanks!!!
Rick
So, I need to find just the right amp project that works with FR, draws the least current for the amount of heat it produces and sounds the best possible.
I very much appreciate everyone's input, thanks!!!
Rick
The inductive loading significantly increases the maximum output voltage and efficiency of the Zenductor circuit compared to using a constant current source or a complementary output transistor. 10W of Class A output power on "only" a 16 volt supply is quite impressive, actually. If this is "too much heat", then a nice Class D or Chip Amp should be in your future. Compact, cool running, highly efficient, low energy consumption, etc. are not Class A trademarks.
Maybe I misunderstood what I was reading, dead tired all day, worked very hard the last two days and worn out a bit. I saw it saying the heat sink got very hot but I guess that is relative to the power draw, output and size of the heatsink.
Thanks for bringing this up, I will look into it more🙂
Rick
Thanks for bringing this up, I will look into it more🙂
Rick
Looks like a great amp project🙂 Searched and did not find kits or just the circuit boards, are they available?
Rick
Rick
How about F5M or F5M redux ?
Simple design and available as kit, there is also detailed build guide 🙂
https://diyaudiostore.com/pages/project-f5m
https://reduxkits.com/products/f5m-redux
Simple design and available as kit, there is also detailed build guide 🙂
https://diyaudiostore.com/pages/project-f5m
https://reduxkits.com/products/f5m-redux
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