I'm looking for a small size amp that can replace the factory one behind a panel. Something no more than 8" long I suspect.
New or classic what would the recommendations be? I know that Alpine has the PDX but I don't know any reviews that raved about its SQ.
New or classic what would the recommendations be? I know that Alpine has the PDX but I don't know any reviews that raved about its SQ.
The big question is what kind of factory system will it have to interface with?
What are your plans for it?
Do you need 4 channels?
Being out of the business for many years, I prefer the classic amps I am familiar with. They tend to be fantastic values, too.
Tim
What are your plans for it?
Do you need 4 channels?
Being out of the business for many years, I prefer the classic amps I am familiar with. They tend to be fantastic values, too.
Tim
Doh. Sorry for the sketchy info.
It would be a three way system. pair 6.5 and 1" in the front. Pair of 6x9s in the rear.
It would be a three way system. pair 6.5 and 1" in the front. Pair of 6x9s in the rear.
That small....will an old soundstream fit? Most are 2ch though. I like the old alpines, good sound and not a crazy price most of the time. How much wattage (RMS) do you need? There are a pile of good old amps to be had, just need external crossover. PPI is another.
A 4-channel amp would be best then I could bridge for the rears. I have a Soundstream MC-245 in my other car and I was never in love with it. I just went through it and upgraded some parts and it still doesn't amaze me.
Something that will give excellent SQ is what I'm after. I don't need the thumping. Just good clear clean tight reproduction.
Something that will give excellent SQ is what I'm after. I don't need the thumping. Just good clear clean tight reproduction.
Buy a ppi pro mos 12 or pro mos 25 and run all speakers on it with some good external crossovers.
(MC-245) Really? I always wanted one. Was told back then guys from Nakamichi built those. My 3518 alpine is the cleanest amp I have ever run IMO, but only 2x30w and it runs hot so I use a fan. Likely rated at 12v though. I have a kicker right now (yeah cheap) and sure can't get it to sound even close to the alpine, going to take it out. Sub channel is ok on it, but highs not so good IMO. I've also heard of people running two 2ch, one on each side for front/rear. A 4x50rms alpine might work, I've tried to buy an older one but they go too high for me. Its the 3547, 355X, or something in there.
Bridge the rear? Are they 6x9 subs? People seem to pay a lot for the older alpine 5ch, like the mrv-f357 if you have room. Never used one, but most you can bridge it to a 3ch like my kicker. Also have an old 4x25 I have not used yet. I think the 35XX alpines are rated at 12v. Maybe I don't know, most people have limited interest in the alpines. I like them because when they distort, they lose it in a big way then you know its clean or turn it down. Have a little 2x75 PPI and was never that impressed with it, it was ok. But the other day I tore into it for a short and found mosfets loose....so it may have had issues. I was running a 12 with it bridged, just abusing it now and then can't believe it didn't grenade.
Bridge the rear? Are they 6x9 subs? People seem to pay a lot for the older alpine 5ch, like the mrv-f357 if you have room. Never used one, but most you can bridge it to a 3ch like my kicker. Also have an old 4x25 I have not used yet. I think the 35XX alpines are rated at 12v. Maybe I don't know, most people have limited interest in the alpines. I like them because when they distort, they lose it in a big way then you know its clean or turn it down. Have a little 2x75 PPI and was never that impressed with it, it was ok. But the other day I tore into it for a short and found mosfets loose....so it may have had issues. I was running a 12 with it bridged, just abusing it now and then can't believe it didn't grenade.
I STILL haven't remembered the brand I was referring someone to in another thread here. They make super thin amps, about an inch tall and not wide or deep. And still bridgeable with crossovers. Anyone else know which brand I'm talking about? They are a metallic bronzish color with a little chrome badge in the middle on top. Some weird off brand that really impressed me the couple of times we've installed them... Going to go look again...
I think I've seen those thin amps on the web about a year ago. I can't remember the name either even after some fruitless googling. Weren't they pretty expensive?
Anyway, if you heard them and they had great SQ I'd love to track them down again.
Anyway, if you heard them and they had great SQ I'd love to track them down again.
All of these suggestions are "classic amps" that I've had a lot of experience with and would put in my own car. And I'm picky. All but the Autotek should be available at a steal.
ADS PQ8. Small, flat, very nice sounding amp. 25W x 4, but not bridgeable. 35W x 4 at 2 ohms. Most likely to fit your physical size requirements, and little to complain about beyond the akward gain adjustments. PQ10 would be even better at 40x4 and bridgeable, but maybe too big.
If I didn't already have a dozen more amps than I need, I'd buy this one:
PQ10 auction
Autotek 7288BTS... Wow, I'm not sure the # is right, but its 22W x4, made in the 90's. Made by Zed. Potent, bridgeable, and very clean. Also hard to find these days. I wish I had a dozen of them.
The little Alpine 3517, 3522's are pretty small and sound very nice. Only two channels at 2x25W or so, but run at 2 ohms all day long. Can usually be had for a song. Their 4 channel amps of that era are great, but too large for you. If you're willing to relocate the amp, a 3527s would be a perfect choice.
Do be careful that whatever you choose will be compatible with your head unit!
Tim
Wow. Thanks for all the tips! I have to get something between the factory head unit and amp but I tracked down a inexpensive solution: Here
This is going into a 2007 Mini Cooper. You can see the factory amp in this photo. I don't have that amp because I ordered the base system knowing I would upgrade it. diagram of amp location
You can see the upgraded amp looks a little tall but squat. I don't have dimensions unfortunately.
This is going into a 2007 Mini Cooper. You can see the factory amp in this photo. I don't have that amp because I ordered the base system knowing I would upgrade it. diagram of amp location
You can see the upgraded amp looks a little tall but squat. I don't have dimensions unfortunately.
Don't spend your money yet, some amps ( like the Alpine 3527s) will accept speaker-level inputs without any hassle.
Neat diagram, IIRC Mini uses Harman Kardon amps and speakers. I've noticed them on ebay, maybe a search would reveal useful dimensions.
Do you feel strongly about using the factory amp location or would under the seat be an option?
Tim
The perfect space is under the passenger seat IF there aren't electronics in there which ours has (DSC) Not much room under the drivers. Hiding it where the factory one is would be perfect. I keep searching but I can't find dimensions. I did find this but can't make out the part number. hk amp
Just found the dimensions of the factory H/K amp:
"Just measured, 7.5" long, 4.5" high, 2.5"deep, mounted on frame. No more depth available, but plenty of room on the other dimensions."
I would imagine he means that the height is what he calls "deep"
Also found this regarding the head unit (which can't be changed because its part of the computer)
A few days ago, I decided to try to figure out what the specs are for the standard stock radio. I was able to come up with these figures:
Each individual speaker has a nominal impedance of 4-Ohms(stated on the back of each speaker).
The front speaker pairs(mids and woofers) are wired in parallel so the stereo sees each set as a 2-Ohm set.
The power output was measured to be: 15.2W @ 4-Ohms front ch, 26.6W @ 2-Ohms front ch, 17.2W @ 4-Ohm rear ch, ??W @ 2-Ohm rear ch.
Just found the dimensions of the factory H/K amp:
"Just measured, 7.5" long, 4.5" high, 2.5"deep, mounted on frame. No more depth available, but plenty of room on the other dimensions."
I would imagine he means that the height is what he calls "deep"
Also found this regarding the head unit (which can't be changed because its part of the computer)
A few days ago, I decided to try to figure out what the specs are for the standard stock radio. I was able to come up with these figures:
Each individual speaker has a nominal impedance of 4-Ohms(stated on the back of each speaker).
The front speaker pairs(mids and woofers) are wired in parallel so the stereo sees each set as a 2-Ohm set.
The power output was measured to be: 15.2W @ 4-Ohms front ch, 26.6W @ 2-Ohms front ch, 17.2W @ 4-Ohm rear ch, ??W @ 2-Ohm rear ch.
I think these are the tiny amps I was talking about, but on the page they don't look so small. Their other amps have too much blingy crap and I didn't even check the rest of the site.
http://www.audiofonics.com/ASP/Default.asp?idCategory=89
http://www.audiofonics.com/ASP/Default.asp?idCategory=89
I have a 3522 I scored for $13 shipped this spring, it was dirty and from a junkyard. I cleaned it good and it works like a charm except for one switch on the crossover that crackles when you mess with it, have to spray it. It looks quite nice, got lucky. I meant to compare it with the larger but same wattage 2x30 3518 and have not been able to. Sounded nice testing it. You might be able to run two of them and would have more mounting options for a weird shaped place. They are pretty thin, I could measure it for you. They are bridgable (@4ohm) and have a built in 80Hz LP/HP switch as I recall. Must be around 80x1 bridged. They are always on ebay but lack the high level harness usually, don't know what they cost.
ppia600: I don't think those are the amps you're thinking of. I too remember some very thin copper colored one IRC they were thin and long.
phrarod:
Which brings up another question –since outboard amps are a factory option, is there a preamp output on the head unit?
phrarod:
Yeah, kinda chunky, but not unusual for a stock amp. It *does* look like the same space is available (at least without the trim panel) on the passenger side if you wanted to go with two 2-ch’s.
jol50:
3522’s are about 8” x 5.5”, probably right under 2” thick. The “s” model uses screw terminals for power and speaker connections. And yep, rated at 80W mono into 4 ohms. I can post a spec sheet for most of these early 90's Alpine products for anyone interested.
The 3518 is more potent, more conservatively rated, but a little more noisy and more irritating to work with the connectors. Don’t get me wrong, the 3522 will drive a pair of 10’s with no sweat. Both are good amps and hard to beat for the prices you can get ‘em for nowdays. $13, shipped? That’s nice.
Tim
Which brings up another question –since outboard amps are a factory option, is there a preamp output on the head unit?
phrarod:
Yeah, kinda chunky, but not unusual for a stock amp. It *does* look like the same space is available (at least without the trim panel) on the passenger side if you wanted to go with two 2-ch’s.
jol50:
3522’s are about 8” x 5.5”, probably right under 2” thick. The “s” model uses screw terminals for power and speaker connections. And yep, rated at 80W mono into 4 ohms. I can post a spec sheet for most of these early 90's Alpine products for anyone interested.
The 3518 is more potent, more conservatively rated, but a little more noisy and more irritating to work with the connectors. Don’t get me wrong, the 3522 will drive a pair of 10’s with no sweat. Both are good amps and hard to beat for the prices you can get ‘em for nowdays. $13, shipped? That’s nice.
Tim
Interesting on the pre-amp out question. I'll have to do more research. The only Alpine amps I heard weren't very involving. Pretty cold and sterile although my listening has been limited and I can't recall which amps there were.
I checked on eBay and they seem to go for ~$25-40 plus shipping.
I checked on eBay and they seem to go for ~$25-40 plus shipping.
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