Bang for the 20 buck? Peerless SDS-160F25P01-08 (PE 264-1146). Can be used sealed or bass reflex (altho a bit larger than normal) or TL. I use them sealed and MLTL. With the latter, usable low end can extend into the upper 20's with 1 cubic foot volume. Crossover ~2.2k. Easy to work with passively.
Very interesting thread really. TBH I haven't had much luck with 6.5" paper bass, which always sounds a bit bright to me.
But 6.5" polycone bass has an illustrious history. Perhaps sufficient mechanical damping to make filtering easy.
The Peerless 830874 looks good:
Peerless 830874 HDS 164 PPB MidWoofer Speaker
As does the dustcap-free SEAS U18RNX-P:
H1571-08 U18RNX/P
They both seem to cry out for that 5kHz (4.7uF/ 0.2mH/1.5R) shunt notch after the bafflestep coil so familiar to speaker builders. Of course, it might be 4.5kHz. Some fiddling required.
But 6.5" polycone bass has an illustrious history. Perhaps sufficient mechanical damping to make filtering easy.
The Peerless 830874 looks good:
Peerless 830874 HDS 164 PPB MidWoofer Speaker
As does the dustcap-free SEAS U18RNX-P:
H1571-08 U18RNX/P
They both seem to cry out for that 5kHz (4.7uF/ 0.2mH/1.5R) shunt notch after the bafflestep coil so familiar to speaker builders. Of course, it might be 4.5kHz. Some fiddling required.
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I do like a cheap poly cone for a 3-way speaker. OMG!!! The bass!!! When crossed lower like that, the things can get hyper! Sometimes, pretty bass can be loud. Its kind of surprising. So, although that part may be plastic and the crossover cost a lot more than the woofer, I'm pretty sure you won't get bored. Also, no headache with clean bass, so the crossover costs of a 3-way (featuring a biggie size midrange) just might be worth it, even if the woofer is 6.5"
now the Satori's are alot cheaper, in the uk at least.. theres a real case for spending the extra, if say its £40 more etc.
Had great success with the 6.5" Sf 8ohm version in MTM's.
They take a really long time to break in though, but worth waiting for.
They take a really long time to break in though, but worth waiting for.
As does the dustcap-free SEAS U18RNX-P:
H1571-08 U18RNX/P
They both seem to cry out for that 5kHz (4.7uF/ 0.2mH/1.5R) shunt notch after the bafflestep coil so familiar to speaker builders. Of course, it might be 4.5kHz. Some fiddling required.
There is no reason to notch the U18. The response once the BSC is applied is VERY smooth and has no blemishes to worry about. It's a fantastic driver!
I'm also going to suggest the F6 to add to the list here. For the price, you can't find a better 6.5" blended-cone woofer that can play to 3.5k if required.
Later,
Wolf
I've been pretty thrilled with the performance of Peerless drivers, they are just great value. I've posted a couple builds in the forums:
Another Peerless 830883 execution
Another peerless 830875 execution
Cheers
Andrew
Another Peerless 830883 execution
Another peerless 830875 execution
Cheers
Andrew
FWIW I bought a pair of the 6" Wavecors mentioned above, excellent sound, but I believe they have been discontinued though still available for $50 in Aus, which makes them the best value 6" woofer here...
Mission CP168, paper cone. Ugly frame but....
Very budget cheap (€20)
THD looks OK from measurements someone here linked some time ago. As long as you cross it low
https://www.hifi-selbstbau.de/index...ssion-cp168m3&catid=14:tief-mittelt&Itemid=58
Very budget cheap (€20)
THD looks OK from measurements someone here linked some time ago. As long as you cross it low
https://www.hifi-selbstbau.de/index...ssion-cp168m3&catid=14:tief-mittelt&Itemid=58
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The Dayton Audio DA175-8 gets far less love than it should. Non-linear distortion is excellent below 1.5KHz and the cone breakup is fairly mild for a metal cone. Costs peanuts ($28US), looks respectable. A great choice for a 3 way or low crossed (1.5khz LR4) 2-way.
The only cons are that efficiency is low and the RS180-8 looks and performs slightly better, often going on sale around $40 which makes it a slightly better deal imho.
And a note about the cheaper (e.g. SLS series) Tymphany/Peerless/Vifa woofers - almost all of them have simple motor designs. Combine that with a breakup node in the 2-6KHz region and you get bad trending 3rd and 5th order harmonic distortion through the upper midrange. They are best used as the woofer in a 3-way crossed low (<800Hz). For a 2-way you need to look toward the HDS series if you want low distortion up to a higher crossover point (2KHz~). When deciding between drivers of the same series, try to pick the one which has a smooth roll off starting at a low frequency. Be weary of drivers which seem to be almost completely flat out to a certain point and then fall off a cliff - the reason for the extended response is that the response is being assisted by a cone breakup node which will cause higher non-linear distortion lower down in the frequency range. In the case of the HDS series almost all of them have breakup nodes, the PPB is probably the most benign so i'd choose that for a 2-way assuming that the motors are all identical. The aluminium cone will be the best if you cross below 1.4KHz (breakup node is 7KHz / 5th order HD = 1.4KHz) because the dip in the response between 1.5KHz to 7KHz will make the harmonic distortion go way down in the upper midrange.
The only cons are that efficiency is low and the RS180-8 looks and performs slightly better, often going on sale around $40 which makes it a slightly better deal imho.
And a note about the cheaper (e.g. SLS series) Tymphany/Peerless/Vifa woofers - almost all of them have simple motor designs. Combine that with a breakup node in the 2-6KHz region and you get bad trending 3rd and 5th order harmonic distortion through the upper midrange. They are best used as the woofer in a 3-way crossed low (<800Hz). For a 2-way you need to look toward the HDS series if you want low distortion up to a higher crossover point (2KHz~). When deciding between drivers of the same series, try to pick the one which has a smooth roll off starting at a low frequency. Be weary of drivers which seem to be almost completely flat out to a certain point and then fall off a cliff - the reason for the extended response is that the response is being assisted by a cone breakup node which will cause higher non-linear distortion lower down in the frequency range. In the case of the HDS series almost all of them have breakup nodes, the PPB is probably the most benign so i'd choose that for a 2-way assuming that the motors are all identical. The aluminium cone will be the best if you cross below 1.4KHz (breakup node is 7KHz / 5th order HD = 1.4KHz) because the dip in the response between 1.5KHz to 7KHz will make the harmonic distortion go way down in the upper midrange.
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Hi,
10" bass unit with 6.5" as a mid ? Don't go MTM its a waste.
Bass issues go out the window in the above. The best VFM
6.5" for the above won't be the best VFM 6.5" for a 6.5"/1".
e.g. the Tarkus : https://sites.google.com/site/undefinition/tarkus
uses this : Peerless 830657 6-1/2" Paper Cone SDS Woofer
To very good effect.
The Tarkus is a fine example of how to use very cost efficient drivers.
rgds, sreten.
10" bass unit with 6.5" as a mid ? Don't go MTM its a waste.
Bass issues go out the window in the above. The best VFM
6.5" for the above won't be the best VFM 6.5" for a 6.5"/1".
e.g. the Tarkus : https://sites.google.com/site/undefinition/tarkus
uses this : Peerless 830657 6-1/2" Paper Cone SDS Woofer
To very good effect.
The Tarkus is a fine example of how to use very cost efficient drivers.
rgds, sreten.
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It appears while paper is a nice material, without reinforcement you will need more of it in a speaker to get the performance of a synthetic speaker, i.e. multiple drive units. I think the motor designs and materials in readily available drivers, as requested in the original post, make a 7" woofer a great choice for a high performance speaker.
I reiterate the Peerless HDS series will fit the bill nicely, as suggested by TMM. You get advanced cone materials and cast aluminium frames as opposed to flex thin wall steel frames for a great price. I just looked at the Essential Audio website here in Australia who sold these drivers, alas they've closed down. Off topic, I wonder where we're at with diy speakers generally these days? Curious to know about this sites' annual member sign up stats for example...
I reiterate the Peerless HDS series will fit the bill nicely, as suggested by TMM. You get advanced cone materials and cast aluminium frames as opposed to flex thin wall steel frames for a great price. I just looked at the Essential Audio website here in Australia who sold these drivers, alas they've closed down. Off topic, I wonder where we're at with diy speakers generally these days? Curious to know about this sites' annual member sign up stats for example...
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I've been pretty thrilled with the performance of Peerless drivers, they are just great value
+1 with swin1, Peerless 830875 are a great value, I love my Nomex164 for three years now :
Construction d'enceintes "Nomex 164" - Le blog de pguerin
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