Hello Everyone,
I'm building my dad a nice powered subwoofer with the Dayton Audio SA240 240W Subwoofer Amplifier 300-804 and I am going to use Dayton Audio DCS385-4 15" Classic Subwoofer 4 Ohm 295-206 for the sub. I'm not sure what size and tuning to use for the enclosure so far I'm thinking 5-6 cuft at 32hz but bass box pro and winisd recommend like 12-15cuft which just seems incredibly big. What do you guys think would be good for this sub?
I'm building my dad a nice powered subwoofer with the Dayton Audio SA240 240W Subwoofer Amplifier 300-804 and I am going to use Dayton Audio DCS385-4 15" Classic Subwoofer 4 Ohm 295-206 for the sub. I'm not sure what size and tuning to use for the enclosure so far I'm thinking 5-6 cuft at 32hz but bass box pro and winisd recommend like 12-15cuft which just seems incredibly big. What do you guys think would be good for this sub?
What will the sub be used for, music, HT, breaking windows 🙂 ?
Btw the Dayton Audio RSS390HO-4 15" Reference HO Subwoofer 4 Ohm 295-469 is happy in a small (4ft^3) box tuned to 23Hz. What are the dimensions of the room this will go in?
oh yeah, the DCS385-4 15" really does want a large 7-12ft^3 box
edit: when designing with the dayton amps remember that they have a built in HP at 18Hz 2nd order. so include that in the EQ/Filter tab.
Btw the Dayton Audio RSS390HO-4 15" Reference HO Subwoofer 4 Ohm 295-469 is happy in a small (4ft^3) box tuned to 23Hz. What are the dimensions of the room this will go in?
oh yeah, the DCS385-4 15" really does want a large 7-12ft^3 box
edit: when designing with the dayton amps remember that they have a built in HP at 18Hz 2nd order. so include that in the EQ/Filter tab.
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The sub will mainly be used for music my dad listens to rock, jazz, jazz fusion guitar type stuff. The sub is going to be in the basement on his side which is about 12ft x 15ft x 8 ft high. He has a curtain that cuts the basement in half. So the DCS385-4 15" really does need a 7-12cuft box? Bass Box pro recommended 12cuft box tuned to around 18hz but that seems low also what do you think for tuning.
I tune in the teens (14-18Hz) to keep transient response and group delay low in the audible range.
edit: that driver in a sealed 7ft^3 box would work well for the music you describe.
edit: that driver in a sealed 7ft^3 box would work well for the music you describe.
You think so? Even with all the long low notes in jazz? I usually like to port tune my boxes. It does recommend a low tuning of 17-18hz you don't think that's low considering you can't hear below 20hz? Here is what I have so far Photo Album - Imgur I can always lower the tuning if you think it will sound better.
Right now he has a hafler preamp connected to an adcom gfa-545 II amp but really bad speakers so I wanted to get him a nice powered sub to get him started on a nice sound.
in the box design section use the BR with active HP EQ filter and change the Fx =18 and Qx =2. that will simulate the dayton amps HP filter.
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The tuning to 18 or lower will work just fine. Tuning any higher will make it a boom box ie you will have a huge peak just above tuning. see pics below.
If you really like the dcs385 put it in a big box tuned low and use ~100w, the 240 will work well.
If you really like the dcs385 put it in a big box tuned low and use ~100w, the 240 will work well.
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Nice ok I think 12 cuft tuned to 18hz then I ordered the sa-240 and the sub tonight so I will be working with 240 wrms the sub takes 300 wrms so I didn't want to go sealed because it would end up needing more power then ported. I think my dad will be very happy with the 12cuft at 18hz. I can't find "BR with active HP EQ filter and change the Fx =18 and Qx =2" anywhere will that effect the parameters of the box or is that just to make the graphs that you posted?
What do you think I should use for the port I have a 4" pvc pipe that I bought for my car subwoofer box now I could use 1x 4" x 5.5" for 18hz or I could do 2x 4" x 14" for 18hz.
in a 12ft box you will exceed Xmax with 100w. don't worry a 240w amp will work. in BBP under box design tab, select Type: Vented Box with active HP EQ filter, the active 12db/oct. high=pass filter box will appear.
edit: with 98w will hit 110db. that's loud.
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use two 4" ports with flares or three 4" X 23"L if you don't want to use flares. You need to keep the vent velocity below 12m/s for optimal sound.
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wow didn't think the sub xmax was high enough to need more than 2 are u sure? It's just one sub also the sub handles 300 watts I don't think 100 will put it past it. I was told it might need bracing being 12 cuft the dimensions I have atm are 36" x 28" x 24.5" do you think that will need bracing? I'd like to be able to give it all 240 watts so should i make a smaller box then?
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I just installed winisd 0.50 a7 like you have and when I input the parameters for my sub it says it fails consistency how did you get past that?
Hello Ninesvnsicks,
When entering driver parameters there are certain approaches that work well and others that do not. WinISD wants all of the perimeters to agree with the Thiele/Small "rules" if that makes any sense.
The trick is to enter some information and allow WinISD to calculate the remainder. Don't go manually "fixing" a value that it calculates. If it's off slightly from published specs it really doesn't matter.
Which values you choose to enter and which you allow it to calculate is important.
Start with these (in any order seems to work in my experience) Qms, Mms, Sd, Cms, BL, Re. The rest should auto calculate, then enter Pe and Xmax and you should be ready to save the driver.
Using WinISD: A Step by step tutorial
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I would suggest this woofer instead: Dayton Audio DCS450-4 18" Classic Subwoofer 4 Ohm 295-475
For only $17 more I think it's a no brainer, and you're already planning a box size that is more than large enough for an 18" anyways.
I like 10ft^3 tuned to 28hz. I don't see a need for the ability to play flat to 20hz with the program material listed. This woofer in this box can play the 30-100hz range a full ~7-8db louder than the 15" in the 12ft^3@19hz can.
If you are set on the 15" driver, I would drop the box size down to ~7-8ft^3 and tune it in the 21-24hz range. This will increase the maximum listening level by ~2db in the 30-100hz range while taking up less space.
Eric
When entering driver parameters there are certain approaches that work well and others that do not. WinISD wants all of the perimeters to agree with the Thiele/Small "rules" if that makes any sense.
The trick is to enter some information and allow WinISD to calculate the remainder. Don't go manually "fixing" a value that it calculates. If it's off slightly from published specs it really doesn't matter.
Which values you choose to enter and which you allow it to calculate is important.
Start with these (in any order seems to work in my experience) Qms, Mms, Sd, Cms, BL, Re. The rest should auto calculate, then enter Pe and Xmax and you should be ready to save the driver.
Using WinISD: A Step by step tutorial
---------------------------------------------------------
I would suggest this woofer instead: Dayton Audio DCS450-4 18" Classic Subwoofer 4 Ohm 295-475
For only $17 more I think it's a no brainer, and you're already planning a box size that is more than large enough for an 18" anyways.
I like 10ft^3 tuned to 28hz. I don't see a need for the ability to play flat to 20hz with the program material listed. This woofer in this box can play the 30-100hz range a full ~7-8db louder than the 15" in the 12ft^3@19hz can.
If you are set on the 15" driver, I would drop the box size down to ~7-8ft^3 and tune it in the 21-24hz range. This will increase the maximum listening level by ~2db in the 30-100hz range while taking up less space.
Eric
ah ok I got winisd finally last night lol. I already ordered the amp and 15" sub I didn't see the 18 but that might be over kill for him. I was trying to keep it around or under $100. I will probably go down to 7-8 and tune to what you said around 23hz ive never tuned below 32hz although I've always had car boxes and not home.
As for the port box and port designs...
I would go with a box shape of roughly 19.5" x 25.5" x" 34" or something similar. Front baffle "inside" dimension is then 18"x24" assuming 3/4" wall thickness (less a few inches top or bottom for port slot). I suggest doubling the front baffle thickness to 1.5" (glue-n-screw 2 sheets together). Bolt the woofer down really good.
I would build the port into the front of the box as a "slot" style port. on the bottom. 18" x 2.25" opening, 24.5" length. That should give about a 23hz tuning and the final box should wind around ~7ft^3. With 160W signal level (highest the unit should be played at to prevent distortion/over excursion) the air velocity in port will peak ~35ft/s just below 20hz. The port should be nice and silent through the useful listening range.
I'd use a round-over tool on the router (just a smallish round-over, like 3/8") and run it around the vent opening, also, i would apply a round over to the back of the baffle that makes up the top of the vent slot.
I'd certainly suggest rabbit jointing in a few braces and lining the inside of the box and braces with a thin layer of fiberlgass or polyfill.
I would go with a box shape of roughly 19.5" x 25.5" x" 34" or something similar. Front baffle "inside" dimension is then 18"x24" assuming 3/4" wall thickness (less a few inches top or bottom for port slot). I suggest doubling the front baffle thickness to 1.5" (glue-n-screw 2 sheets together). Bolt the woofer down really good.
I would build the port into the front of the box as a "slot" style port. on the bottom. 18" x 2.25" opening, 24.5" length. That should give about a 23hz tuning and the final box should wind around ~7ft^3. With 160W signal level (highest the unit should be played at to prevent distortion/over excursion) the air velocity in port will peak ~35ft/s just below 20hz. The port should be nice and silent through the useful listening range.
I'd use a round-over tool on the router (just a smallish round-over, like 3/8") and run it around the vent opening, also, i would apply a round over to the back of the baffle that makes up the top of the vent slot.
I'd certainly suggest rabbit jointing in a few braces and lining the inside of the box and braces with a thin layer of fiberlgass or polyfill.
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