Looks like it's about $50 a sheet ouch heh.
Yes but if it has a ding it's 1/2 price. (they don't publicize this but if you find a sheet with strap marks and ask the wood guys they will sell it at cost.)
Geez that thing looks super tall.for bracing you can look at http://www.diyaudio.com/forums/subwoofers/197238-my-little-build.html the pics tell the tale. It's pretty simple.
it's 36" "tall"
edit: that's actually the width, it sits on it's side below my HT screen with the driver side-firing and the port front-firing.
edit: that's actually the width, it sits on it's side below my HT screen with the driver side-firing and the port front-firing.
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oh the pic makes it looks a lot bigger heh.it's 36" "tall"
edit: that's actually the width, it sits on it's side below my HT screen with the driver side-firing and the port front-firing.
Hey guys I wanted to ask you what would happen if I used a really small box (small for this sub) like 3cuft? My brother has a 15" box from a car install and I was just wondering how bad it would sound in something that small?
Have you heard any of these phrases, 'One note bass', 'Boom Box', 'fart box'.
How bad... try it. Then put the driver in the proper box and you'll understand the above.
How bad... try it. Then put the driver in the proper box and you'll understand the above.
lol ok just checking. Fart box meaning distortion?Have you heard any of these phrases, 'One note bass', 'Boom Box', 'fart box'.
How bad... try it. Then put the driver in the proper box and you'll understand the above.
Hey guys I wanted to ask you what would happen if I used a really small box (small for this sub) like 3cuft? My brother has a 15" box from a car install and I was just wondering how bad it would sound in something that small?
I agree with revboden If you want to take care when designing subs and to avoid a crappy sounding sub, you have to factor in that:'One note bass', 'Boom Box', 'fart box' could be the outcome from wishful thinkings,that is, by picking a too small volume for a driver whose T/S says the opposite.
Hints and another suggestion preserving SQ here:
b🙂
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lol ok just checking. Fart box meaning distortion?
Sorta, I heard that phrase from my neighbors kid when I helped him build a proper box for his car. He described the high Q ported box the car audio shop sold him as a fart box because "any bass note that it produced sounded like a variation of the same note... kinda like a fart". It made me laugh. 😛
lol that's funny. Yea so far it's either going to be 7 cuft since I think it will fit on one sheet of birch. I would go 12cuft but wood is so expensive now.Sorta, I heard that phrase from my neighbors kid when I helped him build a proper box for his car. He described the high Q ported box the car audio shop sold him as a fart box because "any bass note that it produced sounded like a variation of the same note... kinda like a fart". It made me laugh. 😛
The more I play with that driver for music only the more I like the 7ft^3 box tuned to 18Hz. It'll be nice and punchy with clarity, and thats a good combination.
I was leaning more toward the 7cuft but tuned to around 23hz since that is closer to musical range do you think the 18hz would be better even if it's for music and not movies?The more I play with that driver for music only the more I like the 7ft^3 box tuned to 18Hz. It'll be nice and punchy with clarity, and thats a good combination.
The higher tuning will give you more power handling and higher max SPL through the useful listening range. The lower tuning will produce a flatter output and smoother bottom end roll-off. It's just trade-offs.
Any tuning from ~16-26hz can work fine here. Heck... you may even want to leave the option open to adjust the tuning frequency in the box design so you can see what works better with the room.
One way you can do this, is to build the port a bit oversized to begin with, so that you can then change the ratio of the port size by inserting shims until you like the result...
For example: A 3"x16" port opening, 26" long, will give you about a 24hz tuning frequency.. You could then make 3"x26" size cutouts of MDF and slide them into the port to make adjustments to the tuning. Adding enough pieces until the port is 3"x8" opening (still 26" long) will bring the tuning down to ~17.5hz.
Any tuning from ~16-26hz can work fine here. Heck... you may even want to leave the option open to adjust the tuning frequency in the box design so you can see what works better with the room.
One way you can do this, is to build the port a bit oversized to begin with, so that you can then change the ratio of the port size by inserting shims until you like the result...
For example: A 3"x16" port opening, 26" long, will give you about a 24hz tuning frequency.. You could then make 3"x26" size cutouts of MDF and slide them into the port to make adjustments to the tuning. Adding enough pieces until the port is 3"x8" opening (still 26" long) will bring the tuning down to ~17.5hz.
I was planning on using round 4" ports since I have some PVC pipe left in the garage. I do like slot ports better but only with 45 degree angles and I don't have a table saw so I can't do that unfortunately.The higher tuning will give you more power handling and higher max SPL through the useful listening range. The lower tuning will produce a flatter output and smoother bottom end roll-off. It's just trade-offs.
Any tuning from ~16-26hz can work fine here. Heck... you may even want to leave the option open to adjust the tuning frequency in the box design so you can see what works better with the room.
One way you can do this, is to build the port a bit oversized to begin with, so that you can then change the ratio of the port size by inserting shims until you like the result...
For example: A 3"x16" port opening, 26" long, will give you about a 24hz tuning frequency.. You could then make 3"x26" size cutouts of MDF and slide them into the port to make adjustments to the tuning. Adding enough pieces until the port is 3"x8" opening (still 26" long) will bring the tuning down to ~17.5hz.
You can do the same in room tuning with PVC just start with the low tuning, if that dosen't work out you can always slide them out cut them shorter to tune higher. Then once you find the tuning you like secure them in place.
Ok just got back from lowes got a new jig saw, couple tubes of liquid nails and all the MDF is cut just gotta put it together I'll posts pics when it's done. I went with 7cuft tuned to 23hz and a 1" slot port.
Well it's 7cuft tuned to 23hz so 1" high x 23.5" wide x 16" long. The box itself is 28" high x 25" wide x 22" deep.1"??
1" x what x what?
Here is an image before we put the back on.

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Ok well it sounds pretty good although atm my dad doesn't have an rca splitter so he is using the high inputs which distort pretty badly after the gain is past half.
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