Box design for Dayton Audio DCS385-4 15" Classic Sub

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Hey guys I wanted to ask you what would happen if I used a really small box (small for this sub) like 3cuft? My brother has a 15" box from a car install and I was just wondering how bad it would sound in something that small?

I agree with revboden If you want to take care when designing subs and to avoid a crappy sounding sub, you have to factor in that:'One note bass', 'Boom Box', 'fart box' could be the outcome from wishful thinkings,that is, by picking a too small volume for a driver whose T/S says the opposite.

Hints and another suggestion preserving SQ here:

b🙂
 

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Sorta, I heard that phrase from my neighbors kid when I helped him build a proper box for his car. He described the high Q ported box the car audio shop sold him as a fart box because "any bass note that it produced sounded like a variation of the same note... kinda like a fart". It made me laugh. 😛
lol that's funny. Yea so far it's either going to be 7 cuft since I think it will fit on one sheet of birch. I would go 12cuft but wood is so expensive now.
 
The higher tuning will give you more power handling and higher max SPL through the useful listening range. The lower tuning will produce a flatter output and smoother bottom end roll-off. It's just trade-offs.

Any tuning from ~16-26hz can work fine here. Heck... you may even want to leave the option open to adjust the tuning frequency in the box design so you can see what works better with the room.

One way you can do this, is to build the port a bit oversized to begin with, so that you can then change the ratio of the port size by inserting shims until you like the result...

For example: A 3"x16" port opening, 26" long, will give you about a 24hz tuning frequency.. You could then make 3"x26" size cutouts of MDF and slide them into the port to make adjustments to the tuning. Adding enough pieces until the port is 3"x8" opening (still 26" long) will bring the tuning down to ~17.5hz.
 
The higher tuning will give you more power handling and higher max SPL through the useful listening range. The lower tuning will produce a flatter output and smoother bottom end roll-off. It's just trade-offs.

Any tuning from ~16-26hz can work fine here. Heck... you may even want to leave the option open to adjust the tuning frequency in the box design so you can see what works better with the room.

One way you can do this, is to build the port a bit oversized to begin with, so that you can then change the ratio of the port size by inserting shims until you like the result...

For example: A 3"x16" port opening, 26" long, will give you about a 24hz tuning frequency.. You could then make 3"x26" size cutouts of MDF and slide them into the port to make adjustments to the tuning. Adding enough pieces until the port is 3"x8" opening (still 26" long) will bring the tuning down to ~17.5hz.
I was planning on using round 4" ports since I have some PVC pipe left in the garage. I do like slot ports better but only with 45 degree angles and I don't have a table saw so I can't do that unfortunately.
 
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