Here is some good advise on bracing, the braces have to be stiff!
- Additional bracing added to a cabinet system will improve the dynamic performance to a greater of lesser extent, depending on the stiffness of those braces.
- Braces added to the system must be sufficiently stiff to develop inflection points at the braces that induce higher modal behavior to be fully effective.
- As more braces are added to a system, all of the braces need to be increased in stiffness to remain fully effective at controlling the resulting behavior.
- When braces are not stiff enough to induce modal behavior consistent with the brace geometry, the system will start to transition to lower modal behaviors, and ultimately will behave similarly to the fundamental mode of an unbraced system.
This is may take me slightly over budget, but does anyone see an issues with retrofitting my cabinets into Cornscala Type C?
Dims are very close. the CS may be 30L larger.
https://web.archive.org/web/20180126215409/https://critesspeakers.com/cornscala-style-c.html
Dims are very close. the CS may be 30L larger.
https://web.archive.org/web/20180126215409/https://critesspeakers.com/cornscala-style-c.html
I take that back...the Cornscala is going to be $1600
Maybe a useful reference as a hybrid DSP implementation – will research more.
Thought I was onto something here!
Maybe a useful reference as a hybrid DSP implementation – will research more.
Thought I was onto something here!
You can retro-fit any woofer you want, I mean, it's an enclosure.
About the B&C 12CLX64, I checked, and it's 20% more costly than here, and for 345$ +139 the crossover, you get a stamped chassis and it's only good >100Hz and<18kHz..
About the B&C 12CLX64, I checked, and it's 20% more costly than here, and for 345$ +139 the crossover, you get a stamped chassis and it's only good >100Hz and<18kHz..
By buying in 2022, 2023 and on sale, my 15" + 1.4" CD eminence 2 way with one janzen air coil and one audyn polypro cap is $442 parts. H14ea Horns included. Each, I bought 2. Wood, connector, fasteners, stand socket, tungsten pop limiter, extra.I take that back...the Cornscala is going to be $1600
Kappapro-15a 8 or 4 ohm at partsexpress today are $180. N314T-8 are $235.
Here is their recommended cabinet design: https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0270/8665/1462/files/Kappa_Pro_15A_cab.pdf
6.2 cu ft, f3 64 hz, fb 42 hz, limited 75 watts with this deep bass response.
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from post #1
6 cu ft = @ 170 litres
post #1 Sealed
"All 140 liters "
post#30
"there is gonna be a 2.6 liter chamber for wideband .707 Qtc
approx 140 /150 liter for 12" "
-Add braces, more internal panels, etc, to get to ? liters.
===================
for Inspiration-
https://www.thehereticspeaker.com/new-page-2
https://www.thehereticspeaker.com/new-page-2-3-1-2
Heretic AD612
with a Altec 612 / Heretic 612 style grille
6 cu ft = @ 170 litres
12" Woofer and 2.5" Wideband Cabinet Conception / Crossover
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/...wideband-cabinet-conception-crossover.398348/post #1 Sealed
"All 140 liters "
post#30
"there is gonna be a 2.6 liter chamber for wideband .707 Qtc
approx 140 /150 liter for 12" "
-Add braces, more internal panels, etc, to get to ? liters.
===================
for Inspiration-
https://www.thehereticspeaker.com/new-page-2
https://www.thehereticspeaker.com/new-page-2-3-1-2
Heretic AD612

with a Altec 612 / Heretic 612 style grille
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OK, my next question: active DSP vs. passive XO.
There are obviously many threads about this – that's what makes this difficult to decide.
Sharing some of my current thinking here as a sanity check:
My hunch is that active DSP will be "fun" – I'll learn something and get to immediately see and hear the results. The cost of the Mini DSP 2x4 HD (+mic) is unfortunate, but I'm patient and can look for a deal. I think if I go DSP then I would want to stick with that platform because the user experience and support community seems to be the best for a newbie like me.
If I understand correctly, this route will also make it easier to error correct around my current strategy of finding a proven econowave-ish system and retrofitting it for my enclosure. That process would involve learning how to measure with a mic, understand the readings, and learn how to make those adjustments in the mini dsp software.
My main reservations with this platform are that it folks seem unhappy with the A>D conversion. As is often the case on this forum, it's hard to understand what's garbage to one person and nirvana to someone else.
@planet10 @grindstone thanks for your generous guidance so far!
There are obviously many threads about this – that's what makes this difficult to decide.
Sharing some of my current thinking here as a sanity check:
My hunch is that active DSP will be "fun" – I'll learn something and get to immediately see and hear the results. The cost of the Mini DSP 2x4 HD (+mic) is unfortunate, but I'm patient and can look for a deal. I think if I go DSP then I would want to stick with that platform because the user experience and support community seems to be the best for a newbie like me.
If I understand correctly, this route will also make it easier to error correct around my current strategy of finding a proven econowave-ish system and retrofitting it for my enclosure. That process would involve learning how to measure with a mic, understand the readings, and learn how to make those adjustments in the mini dsp software.
My main reservations with this platform are that it folks seem unhappy with the A>D conversion. As is often the case on this forum, it's hard to understand what's garbage to one person and nirvana to someone else.
@planet10 @grindstone thanks for your generous guidance so far!
As stated previously, there is a 3rd option for prototype testing. An amp channel for each driver, and a graphic equalizer for each driver. Set the sliders on the equalizer to get a flat response, or a desired response, or a good sounding response. Then later buy passive components to equal the curve.OK, my next question: active DSP vs. passive XO.
The used markets are crawling with obsolete graphic equalizers, since road bands do not want to carry an extra appliance and most have a lap top computer as center of their control system.
My objections to DSP 1. requires a smart phone or laptop 2. software that fits smart phones gets updated yearly or more often. The DSP you buy may be unsupported in 3 years time. The smart phone or laptop op system will surely be. 3. bi amping or triamping leads to four to six appliances operating as many hours as you play the speakers. In winter I often listen to music 14 hours a day. That is a lot of watts heating up a room plus 4 to 6 appliances to keep operational through the years and the associated (more frequent) lightning storms. Passive crossover leaves one 2 channel amp required to run the speakers. I have had 2 amps and 2 TV's hit by lighting in my 50 years of hifi hobby.
Thanks for all the pointers everyone.
Here's what I'm thinking – I'm curious if you think I'm steering the ship in the right direction!
Specs
Cabinet: relatively unchanged. ~6 cu. ft. Add some bracing, cut a new baffle, etc.
Woofer: Faital Pro 15PR400 – seems widely loved and appears to do well in my form factor
Compression driver & horn*: Faital HF146R + Faital LTH142
Crossover: MiniDSP
Cost
This plan hinges on the assumption that I can (eventually) track down these parts for these prices.
This speaker, the "La Modesta", although a bit larger, seems to be close to what I'm thinking:
Are there obvious cost savings I'm not seeing? My guess is a decent xo would cost me about the same as the MiniDSP. Good CD's all seem to be expensive.
Here's what I'm thinking – I'm curious if you think I'm steering the ship in the right direction!
Specs
Cabinet: relatively unchanged. ~6 cu. ft. Add some bracing, cut a new baffle, etc.
Woofer: Faital Pro 15PR400 – seems widely loved and appears to do well in my form factor
Compression driver & horn*: Faital HF146R + Faital LTH142
Crossover: MiniDSP
Cost
(2x) Faital Pro 15PR400, used -------------- $400
(2x) Faital HF146R 1.4" CD, used ----------- $400
(2x) Faital Faital LTH142 horn used -------- $100
Mini DSP + mic ----------------------------- $350
__________________________________________________
total: $1250
This plan hinges on the assumption that I can (eventually) track down these parts for these prices.
This speaker, the "La Modesta", although a bit larger, seems to be close to what I'm thinking:
Are there obvious cost savings I'm not seeing? My guess is a decent xo would cost me about the same as the MiniDSP. Good CD's all seem to be expensive.
here's a smaller driver:
Faital Pro 12HX230
https://faitalpro.com/en/products/Coaxial_Loudspeakers/product_details/index.php?id=351050010
----
Heretic Loudspeaker A612 Clone
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/heretic-loudspeaker-a612-clone.399873/page-6
(crossover -post's #27, 63, 66, 71, 88, 89)
post's #101 &102
modeled-different coils 1.5 mH & .5 mh (vs 1.62 & .62)
====
Looks like the same crossover & drivers.
Heretic AD614 (smaller Box- smaller Price)
spec 1.7 kHZ crossover
Components
https://www.mcleans.info/products/heretic-ad612?_pos=1&_sid=ce787f6c3&_ss=r
Heretic AD612 (larger Box- larger Price)
spec 1.7 kHZ crossover
Components
"External dims are 36x24x15 Gross internal volume 6.21 ft³ / net (without driver displacement) ~6 ft³"
====
https://www.tonepublications.com/distilled/the-heretic-ad612-speakers/
"The only major difference between the 614s (which actually use the same 12″ coaxial driver) and the AD612s you see here, is cabinet volume.
===
example - different box sizes bass reflex Vifa M25W0-49-08, page 2
http://www.sea.vg/vifa/M25WO-49-08.pdf
Faital Pro 12HX230
https://faitalpro.com/en/products/Coaxial_Loudspeakers/product_details/index.php?id=351050010
----
Heretic Loudspeaker A612 Clone
https://www.diyaudio.com/community/threads/heretic-loudspeaker-a612-clone.399873/page-6
(crossover -post's #27, 63, 66, 71, 88, 89)
post's #101 &102
modeled-different coils 1.5 mH & .5 mh (vs 1.62 & .62)
====

Looks like the same crossover & drivers.
Heretic AD614 (smaller Box- smaller Price)
spec 1.7 kHZ crossover
Components
- 303 Heretic coaxial transducer
- Low frequencies : 12 in. high power, low frequency transducer
- High frequencies : 1 in. coaxial compression driver
- Horn profile : Short exponential.
- Frequency response : 45 Hz to 22 000 Hz
- typical room response 35 Hz to 20 000 Hz
- Dimensions : 25,5 in. high, 18,75 in. wide, 14.5 in. depth ; 65 cm high, 48 cm wide, 37 cm deep
- Weight : 43 lbs / 20 kg
- Volume : 3 cubic feet, 85 litres
https://www.mcleans.info/products/heretic-ad612?_pos=1&_sid=ce787f6c3&_ss=r
Heretic AD612 (larger Box- larger Price)
spec 1.7 kHZ crossover
Components
- 303 Heretic coaxial transducer
- Low frequencies : 12 in. high power, low frequency transducer
- High frequencies : 1 in. coaxial compression driver
- Horn profile : Short exponential.
- Frequency response : 40 Hz to 22 000 Hz
- typical room response : 32 Hz to 20 000 Hz
- Weight : 68 lbs / 40 kg
- Volume : 7 cubic feet, 198 litres
"External dims are 36x24x15 Gross internal volume 6.21 ft³ / net (without driver displacement) ~6 ft³"
====
https://www.tonepublications.com/distilled/the-heretic-ad612-speakers/
"The only major difference between the 614s (which actually use the same 12″ coaxial driver) and the AD612s you see here, is cabinet volume.
===
example - different box sizes bass reflex Vifa M25W0-49-08, page 2
http://www.sea.vg/vifa/M25WO-49-08.pdf
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@ChrisABC thanks for the thoughtful intel.
The 12HX230 (in the US, at least) will put me at my full budget before considering an xo components – passive or otherwise.
If I went coax, I would chose the Lii Audio C1202.
For $425 shipped, it's the value buster option out of everything considered so far.
Lii Audio says there's a very simple internal xo on the driver – and provided a simple drawing. I would need to reduce internal volume slightly. Annoyingly, their T/S params use some non-standard units that leave some ambiguity.
Worst case, I could always tackle issue with DSP.
I think the question I have for you is – other than cost savings – what is to be gained by putting a 12" in a 150–170L enclosure vs. a 15" in the same box?
Do the wider "shoulders" on the baffle give a bass boost?
The 12HX230 (in the US, at least) will put me at my full budget before considering an xo components – passive or otherwise.
If I went coax, I would chose the Lii Audio C1202.
For $425 shipped, it's the value buster option out of everything considered so far.
Lii Audio says there's a very simple internal xo on the driver – and provided a simple drawing. I would need to reduce internal volume slightly. Annoyingly, their T/S params use some non-standard units that leave some ambiguity.
Worst case, I could always tackle issue with DSP.
I think the question I have for you is – other than cost savings – what is to be gained by putting a 12" in a 150–170L enclosure vs. a 15" in the same box?
Do the wider "shoulders" on the baffle give a bass boost?
What gives the best bass available is providing a properly vented reflex box the same size as Vas of the driver. Faital 15pr400 has vas 8.79 cuft, Fs 35 hz, Qt 0.32 . Eminence kappapro-15LF has Vas 7.0 Fs 35 hz Qt .30 . You have a 6 cu ft enclosure. Faital bass factor is .68, 6/8.8. Per chart 5-8 of David Weems designing building testing your own speaker system, F3 factor is 1.3 * Fs 35 gives F3 of 45 hz (that is 3 db down point of bass). Kappapro-15LF bass factor is .86 F3 factor is 1.1 * Fs 35 hz gives F3 of 39 hz. If you used Kappapro-15a Vas 5.9 Fs 47 hz Qt .38 then bass factor is .99, F3 factor is 1.0 * Fs 47 F3= 47 hz. The faital is 99 db 1w1m sensitive, the Kappapro-15LF is 98 db, the Kappapro-15A is 101 db. So you get lower bass with the Kappapro-LF, you get louder bass to 47 with the Kappapro-15A . I own speakers with F3 of 54 hz and I find them totally adequate without a subwoofer (Peavey SP2(2004)).I think the question I have for you is – other than cost savings – what is to be gained by putting a 12" in a 150–170L enclosure vs. a 15" in the same box?
Do the wider "shoulders" on the baffle give a bass boost?
The disadvantage of a 12" driver in a 15" hole is that you have to scrap the front panel of your cabinets and cut a new one. Cutting a round hole is bad enough, but 90% of builders on here recess the driver flush, which takes a router and a circular jig. That process is what has kept me from building a cabinet for my uglysons. (Deltapro-15A+CD N314T-8 CD on 90 deg horn). I am happy with my SP2(2004)as shipped, and my neighbors would be happy to haul them off to the pawn shop again as one did in 2020. Uglyson built of raw MDF will be too ugly to sell, the perp would have to remove the woofer and sell it naked to get any money.
The coax 12" suggestions have their own disadvantages. Coax projects the highs through a small hole in the woofer. Dispersion is less than a CD driving a 90 degree horn. Fine for a monitor speaker sitting behind the engineer's console aimed right at the engineer's head. Recording engineers sit still at the console while working, and use monitor speakrs. I do not sit still, if I did I could use headphones and save $600. My SP2(2004) speakers with 6 db dispersion of 90 degrees produce about the same sound anywhere in my 14' w 11' tall 33' long room. I can walk around and the sound does not change. BTW my SP2 are on poles with the tweeters 8' in the air aimed down at my head. A design feature I suggest to anybody that walks around his room while listening to music. My room is full of organs, pianos, record and book shelves, upholstered couches carpet and acoustic ceiling, which dampens any standing waves.
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What gives the best bass available is providing a properly vented reflex box the same size as Vas of the driver.
From what I can tell (take it with a grain of salt) it seems more common to see 15" drivers in 120–200L enclosures. Much less common with 12". Let's assume a hypothetical 12" that has good bass performance at the box volume I'm working at. Why choose the 12" over the 15"? Is there something desirable about a 12" properly mated to the a big box vs. a 15" to a (relatively) similar box? Aesthetics, I would guess. Component and shipping costs, too. But is there something inherent about that driver's form factor that is desirable? If there is, I would guess that it would be more of a factor of that driver's unique character than a rule-of-thumb about what a 12" brings to the table in this scenario.
All said, I do think there's something to be said about 6cu. ft. (net) awkwardly straddling the line here, making driver selection important. The Calpamos and several other notable 15PR400 builds do sit at 7 cu ft. Searching the community here, on AK, and on the Klipsch board, it seems like it's well liked in 6–7 cu. ft. BR boxes.
I'm just learning how to use WinISD (just got it working with Wine on my Mac) – looks like I need to start digging into that!
I'm happy to be convinced otherwise about driver selection (especially if it's cheaper!).
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12" beam less at 2000 hz than a 15". Wider dispersion. With CD's available that easily go down to 1000 hz, no reason to cross a 15" above 1000.
Advantage of the 15", less cone movement. Cones don't hit the ends of the coils or stretch the suspension. My SP2 with 15" have 5 w harmonic distortion 25 db down from response. See the chart on the datasheet. SP2(2004) will perform to 500 w AES, but 50 watts puts me in earplugs and would drive me out of the room. Low distortion is why I bought them. I have a Steinway piano in the room, the SP2 can sound very like it. No speaker I've heard before can get close. The Meiersounds at Brown Theater don't sound that good. Reason I test with piano, I know exactly what a Steinway sounds like, I own one for calibration. Electronic instruments, gutars, only the recording engineer knows what sound went on the track.
My SP2(2004) crossover at 2000, but Peavey built a pinched back cabinet with special folded elastomer inside to make the dispersion 6 db down 90 degrees all frequencies. You & I cannot do that. Reason they crossed at 2000, woofer takes more of the load and they can rate the cabinet 500 W AES. The rectangular cabinet SP2(1995) with same drivers crossed over at 1200 hz and had 350 w AES limit. Peavey RX22 CD is limited 70 w. Eminence N314T-8 is rated 100w. I have no intention of running my uglysons that loud. When I do play out, my audiences are 7-15 people. The cabinet will not be rugged for road use, I want to able to put uglyson on poles without hiring a moving man. **** perp stole my US made electronic keyboard anyway, I won't be playing out at venues without a wood piano.
Faital has 8' vas, kappapro-15a has 6.0. You have 6 cu ft boxes. Reason analysis above. Only advantage I see 15PR400 is 5.5 mm Xlim instead of 3 but at 50 w my Peavey 1508-KADT woofers don't more 1 mm. No movement less distortion, IMHO. Any 12" would have to move more to achieve same volume. I heard the 12" woofer SP5 peavey at the store and the bass was ho-hum on beethoven Appassionata.
This is a European forum, 90% of posters live in Europe. Faital is cheaper than Eminence there. In US, Eminence is cheaper.
Advantage of the 15", less cone movement. Cones don't hit the ends of the coils or stretch the suspension. My SP2 with 15" have 5 w harmonic distortion 25 db down from response. See the chart on the datasheet. SP2(2004) will perform to 500 w AES, but 50 watts puts me in earplugs and would drive me out of the room. Low distortion is why I bought them. I have a Steinway piano in the room, the SP2 can sound very like it. No speaker I've heard before can get close. The Meiersounds at Brown Theater don't sound that good. Reason I test with piano, I know exactly what a Steinway sounds like, I own one for calibration. Electronic instruments, gutars, only the recording engineer knows what sound went on the track.
My SP2(2004) crossover at 2000, but Peavey built a pinched back cabinet with special folded elastomer inside to make the dispersion 6 db down 90 degrees all frequencies. You & I cannot do that. Reason they crossed at 2000, woofer takes more of the load and they can rate the cabinet 500 W AES. The rectangular cabinet SP2(1995) with same drivers crossed over at 1200 hz and had 350 w AES limit. Peavey RX22 CD is limited 70 w. Eminence N314T-8 is rated 100w. I have no intention of running my uglysons that loud. When I do play out, my audiences are 7-15 people. The cabinet will not be rugged for road use, I want to able to put uglyson on poles without hiring a moving man. **** perp stole my US made electronic keyboard anyway, I won't be playing out at venues without a wood piano.
Faital has 8' vas, kappapro-15a has 6.0. You have 6 cu ft boxes. Reason analysis above. Only advantage I see 15PR400 is 5.5 mm Xlim instead of 3 but at 50 w my Peavey 1508-KADT woofers don't more 1 mm. No movement less distortion, IMHO. Any 12" would have to move more to achieve same volume. I heard the 12" woofer SP5 peavey at the store and the bass was ho-hum on beethoven Appassionata.
This is a European forum, 90% of posters live in Europe. Faital is cheaper than Eminence there. In US, Eminence is cheaper.
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Something I forgot to mention about Econowaves back on AK is about the evolution. Zilch did an
upgrade to the Altec Model 19 crossover that he calls the Z19. Thread here about it:
https://www.audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/z19-crossover.328530/
I believe that he liked the simplicity of that crossover and how it nicely shaped the response of CD
waveguides finding that it could be adapted to the JBL 6X12 PT waveguide and the Selenium 220Ti
driver. Note that it is not my favorite driver for that waveguide. Jackgiff following along found that
the JBL LE14A woofer (14") (and newer versions) could be mated to that combo with excellent results.
They reasoned that people could keep the 220Ti and WG the same and shape different woofer
crossovers to match that combo and this was the basis of the Econowave concept. Also note that
the LE14A has some peaking in the top end, and the 220Ti + JBL 6X12 peaks at the bottom end so
Jackgiff had to space the crossover points apart to compensate.
Here's a link to back in 2008 when Jackgiff starts his experimenting with that combo:
https://www.audiokarma.org/forums/i...-econowave-speaker.150939/page-2#post-1695360
See post #33 and the follow ups.
At some point they talk about the Eighteen Sound XT1086 that they seem to like. MTG tests a clone here:
Note that the clone is probably cheap.
https://www.mtg-designs.com/tips-tr...ut/1in-bolt-horns/eighteen-sound-xt1086-clone
Mike at Ampslab tests it here and likes it very much, seems to be an excellent modern design:
Claims to do 800 Hz, seems too small as I see it but hopefully 1-2KHz crossover should be good.
https://ampslab-spk.com/2023/04/09/xt1086-dfm2535/
It would be interesting to see what designs are out there with it.
The newer JBL versions of the LE14A are worth looking into since we have the Jackgiff design and
anything else that Zilch did with them. I'd try to get a new woofer in order to avoid woofers that
are beat. We're looking for a smooth midrange and decent bass in 6 cuft. You can always do something
like a B6 alignment with the MiniDSP providing the bass boost EQ.
I'm not up on JBL woofers but it seems that the 2226H is the new version but is over $500 each, not
paying that kind of money for them.
upgrade to the Altec Model 19 crossover that he calls the Z19. Thread here about it:
https://www.audiokarma.org/forums/index.php?threads/z19-crossover.328530/
I believe that he liked the simplicity of that crossover and how it nicely shaped the response of CD
waveguides finding that it could be adapted to the JBL 6X12 PT waveguide and the Selenium 220Ti
driver. Note that it is not my favorite driver for that waveguide. Jackgiff following along found that
the JBL LE14A woofer (14") (and newer versions) could be mated to that combo with excellent results.
They reasoned that people could keep the 220Ti and WG the same and shape different woofer
crossovers to match that combo and this was the basis of the Econowave concept. Also note that
the LE14A has some peaking in the top end, and the 220Ti + JBL 6X12 peaks at the bottom end so
Jackgiff had to space the crossover points apart to compensate.
Here's a link to back in 2008 when Jackgiff starts his experimenting with that combo:
https://www.audiokarma.org/forums/i...-econowave-speaker.150939/page-2#post-1695360
See post #33 and the follow ups.
At some point they talk about the Eighteen Sound XT1086 that they seem to like. MTG tests a clone here:
Note that the clone is probably cheap.
https://www.mtg-designs.com/tips-tr...ut/1in-bolt-horns/eighteen-sound-xt1086-clone
Mike at Ampslab tests it here and likes it very much, seems to be an excellent modern design:
Claims to do 800 Hz, seems too small as I see it but hopefully 1-2KHz crossover should be good.
https://ampslab-spk.com/2023/04/09/xt1086-dfm2535/
It would be interesting to see what designs are out there with it.
The newer JBL versions of the LE14A are worth looking into since we have the Jackgiff design and
anything else that Zilch did with them. I'd try to get a new woofer in order to avoid woofers that
are beat. We're looking for a smooth midrange and decent bass in 6 cuft. You can always do something
like a B6 alignment with the MiniDSP providing the bass boost EQ.
I'm not up on JBL woofers but it seems that the 2226H is the new version but is over $500 each, not
paying that kind of money for them.
Cheap clone XT1086, never heard it or the original:
https://www.aliexpress.com/i/2251832660829932.html?gatewayAdapt=4itemAdapt
https://www.aliexpress.com/i/2251832660829932.html?gatewayAdapt=4itemAdapt
Zilch design, I'd use a 15" woofer in your big box, but this shows that the XT1086 works well with the B&C DE250:
https://techtalk.parts-express.com/.../34467-flex-your-pcd-mettle/page15#post483152
Question is if the XT1086 is better than the JBL 6x12" WG.
https://techtalk.parts-express.com/.../34467-flex-your-pcd-mettle/page15#post483152
Question is if the XT1086 is better than the JBL 6x12" WG.
My thread: "Why Waveguide Speakers": https://audiokarma.org/forums/index...fest-4-1-2023-why-waveguide-speakers.1026720/
@PB2 thanks for your guidance. I think we're heading somewhere!
I'm continuing to read up on things, but pulled the trigger on a few things to get the ball rolling:
B&C DE250-8ohm polymer version
XT1086 clone from aliexpress
Umik-1 microphone
Currently looking for a decent pair of LE14A's – I'd prefer to find one with new surrounds vs. the brake fluid mod.
These look promising, but for $200 a pop, am I better off with something contemporary around the same price point?
I'm continuing to read up on things, but pulled the trigger on a few things to get the ball rolling:
B&C DE250-8ohm polymer version
XT1086 clone from aliexpress
Umik-1 microphone
Currently looking for a decent pair of LE14A's – I'd prefer to find one with new surrounds vs. the brake fluid mod.
These look promising, but for $200 a pop, am I better off with something contemporary around the same price point?
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