How do you calculate the volume of a speaker box?
I see all sorts of online calculators but ask for all sorts of technical info that i cant find in the datasheet.
I believe that i should use a sealed enclosure with full range.
Here is the datasheet.
Audio Telex ATC5010-1
I see all sorts of online calculators but ask for all sorts of technical info that i cant find in the datasheet.
I believe that i should use a sealed enclosure with full range.
Here is the datasheet.
Audio Telex ATC5010-1
To calculate an enclosure volume - at the very least, you need:
Fs (90 Hz)
Qts (unknown but probably around 1.0-1.5 for that type of driver)
Vas (unknown, but probably small - ~30Liters +/- 20liters)
Not really suited for anything other than sealed or variovent, unless you can measure T/S parameters (it isn't hard to do) and prove the above guesses wrong.
Without measurements, put it in a 5-10L test box and see how you like it. If it booms too much, increase the box size and/or drill some small holes in it - maybe 10-20x 3mm holes
Fs (90 Hz)
Qts (unknown but probably around 1.0-1.5 for that type of driver)
Vas (unknown, but probably small - ~30Liters +/- 20liters)
Not really suited for anything other than sealed or variovent, unless you can measure T/S parameters (it isn't hard to do) and prove the above guesses wrong.
Without measurements, put it in a 5-10L test box and see how you like it. If it booms too much, increase the box size and/or drill some small holes in it - maybe 10-20x 3mm holes
Not all that strange. It's ancient! Hard to say for sure but the data sheet graphic design looks pretty 1970's. It's probably rated to RMS though and could take 20w without issue.
Whatever the case, to the OP I think you're wasting your time with this driver! Unless it's purely for fun or a novelty/vintage project (radio refurbishment or something), you could pick up something for about $15 that'll give you a lot more headroom to play with and probably better sound quality.
Whatever the case, to the OP I think you're wasting your time with this driver! Unless it's purely for fun or a novelty/vintage project (radio refurbishment or something), you could pick up something for about $15 that'll give you a lot more headroom to play with and probably better sound quality.
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Thanks guys, these speakers dont look that old to me (unless you call 20 years ancient) but i dont expect them being much older than that. The seller bought them for a project he never ended up completing.
They also were sold with an optional tube output transformer on the back of them, which mine dont have.
I wanted a full range speaker for my ECL82 amplifier i built and these appear to be designed for tube amps, and have high sensitivity so thought they would be worth a shot at only $20
If they are not up to expectation, i was thinking i could simply swap them out for a better driver in the future.
They also were sold with an optional tube output transformer on the back of them, which mine dont have.
I wanted a full range speaker for my ECL82 amplifier i built and these appear to be designed for tube amps, and have high sensitivity so thought they would be worth a shot at only $20
If they are not up to expectation, i was thinking i could simply swap them out for a better driver in the future.
Oh, OK, i never realised they used such transformers on PA systems.
Either way, ive been told that PA speakers should be good for my amp.
They allow a PZ amp to drive a whack of speakers without worrying about impedance — at least not like we do, when say wiring up an array. They can be used as OPTs, Bottlehead use/used them in their parafeed SE amp kits — parafeed means they don’t have to handle any AC.
These are meant to be mounted in ceilings with no enclosures except the empty space above a tiled ceiling, so typically are highish Q, highish Fs. That suggests the largest box you can live with and then if that is not large enuff drill holes in the back with damping covering over the holes (ie making a ceiled box “aperiodic”.
dave
These are meant to be mounted in ceilings with no enclosures except the empty space above a tiled ceiling, so typically are highish Q, highish Fs. That suggests the largest box you can live with and then if that is not large enuff drill holes in the back with damping covering over the holes (ie making a ceiled box “aperiodic”.
dave
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