i've had a 500 watt system in my car for a few years now, and the dimming lights are starting to become a problem. so i've decided to break down and buy a capacitor. but i am a little confused about the whole charging method of one.
i understand that the capacitor must be charged before connecting it to anything. and you can use a resistor or a lightbulb to do that. but does the capacitor discharge whenever the car is off? or does the capacitor remain charged, as long as there isn't a drain (headlights left of, etc.)
please let me know
Thanks,
Joe
i understand that the capacitor must be charged before connecting it to anything. and you can use a resistor or a lightbulb to do that. but does the capacitor discharge whenever the car is off? or does the capacitor remain charged, as long as there isn't a drain (headlights left of, etc.)
please let me know
Thanks,
Joe
The capacitor is directly connected to the battery. The capacitor's voltage is essentially exactly the same as the battery voltage. It will not discharge unless the battery is drained or it's disconnected from the battery.
A capacitor doesn't have to be charged prior to connecting it to the power/ground but it reduces the arcing which can damage the terminals when initial contact is made.
I'd suggest that you save your money and buy whatever alternator you need to properly power your system. Even with a good quality alternator, you may never completely eliminate the dimming. In many instances, the only solution is to have one alternator for the vehicle's electronics and another one (isolated from the first) to power your amplifiers.
Since you only have 500 watts (which most alternators should be able to handle), you may have a defective alternator or possibly a defective battery. You can have both checked at AutoZone or a similar automotive parts retailer.
A capacitor doesn't have to be charged prior to connecting it to the power/ground but it reduces the arcing which can damage the terminals when initial contact is made.
I'd suggest that you save your money and buy whatever alternator you need to properly power your system. Even with a good quality alternator, you may never completely eliminate the dimming. In many instances, the only solution is to have one alternator for the vehicle's electronics and another one (isolated from the first) to power your amplifiers.
Since you only have 500 watts (which most alternators should be able to handle), you may have a defective alternator or possibly a defective battery. You can have both checked at AutoZone or a similar automotive parts retailer.
Hi there
Sorry for butting in, Perry, I find sometimes its good just undo earths and clean them. Use a fine gritt and polish the terminals smooth and shiny. I've seen wire brushes and coarse paper used. Think about it, imagine blowing what you see up with a microscope?😀 Coarse paper and the like will create a jagged face say to a brass eye and bulk head, polish it and the entire surfaces will mate together provide better conection. A jagged conection will arc at the spikey peeks as current flows through.
My theory anyway.
What do you think?🙂
Mikee55
Sorry for butting in, Perry, I find sometimes its good just undo earths and clean them. Use a fine gritt and polish the terminals smooth and shiny. I've seen wire brushes and coarse paper used. Think about it, imagine blowing what you see up with a microscope?😀 Coarse paper and the like will create a jagged face say to a brass eye and bulk head, polish it and the entire surfaces will mate together provide better conection. A jagged conection will arc at the spikey peeks as current flows through.
My theory anyway.
What do you think?🙂
Mikee55
PS
Money wasted on a cap can always be better spent, I bet you can fix the problem and spend the money on your missus, or buy some music.🙂
Money wasted on a cap can always be better spent, I bet you can fix the problem and spend the money on your missus, or buy some music.🙂
I was always under the impression that any restrictive connection to equipment would limit the power it consumed, and therefor lessen the car's voltage loss (as well as limit the amp's abilities). I suppose you get some loss in heat.
A new battery would be cheapest, common if the battery is smaller or 5yr old or more. Beyond that you just don't have the power, but near any car alternator should run a 500w amp without issue unless you have some other big draw in the car. If you have bad dimming a cap is not going to fix it.
A new battery would be cheapest, common if the battery is smaller or 5yr old or more. Beyond that you just don't have the power, but near any car alternator should run a 500w amp without issue unless you have some other big draw in the car. If you have bad dimming a cap is not going to fix it.
Perry:
You *could* disconnected the battery before installing the cap. Arcing would then happen upon connecting the battery cable.
You *could* disconnected the battery before installing the cap. Arcing would then happen upon connecting the battery cable.
Just disconnect the battery's ground terminal and connect the capacitor completely. Once you are finished with the cap, put a single element turn signal bulb between the battery ground terminal and the battery, to charge the cap. After the bulb goes out it will be charged and no more arcing. This is of course if you decide to use a cap.
forget the capacitor and overhaul your vehicle's electric circuits.
You are going down the dark road on dipped headlights.
Turn on 5 pairs of spotlights (10 * 55W ~=550W).
That will be the same load as your amp is trying to draw as it nears peak output and taking account of the losses in both the amplifier and in the PSU supplying that amplifier when it is trying to deliver 300 to 400W to your speakers.
You are going down the dark road on dipped headlights.
Turn on 5 pairs of spotlights (10 * 55W ~=550W).
That will be the same load as your amp is trying to draw as it nears peak output and taking account of the losses in both the amplifier and in the PSU supplying that amplifier when it is trying to deliver 300 to 400W to your speakers.
tsmith1315 said:
whoa whoa whoa.
so you are saying i could just disconnect the battery, then put the capacitor all hooked up, then reconnect the battery with no problems? i understand that it would still arch, but would it explode or anything?
joeyd71:
The only way that there would be a chance of an explosion is if you have a fuel leak. Batteries can produce hydrogen gas when overcharged but it only accumulates in very confined spaces.
As ppia600 stated, you can charge with a signal lamp (sylvania 1156 or equal). This can be done by connecting the lamp across the fuse holder before placing the fuse in the holder.
tsmith1315:
If it doesn't cause other problems, that would be a good solution.
ppia600:
I've heard stories about the newer vehicles where some would not start after the battery was disconnected. They had to be towed to the dealer to have the computers reset (or whatever they do). Have you had this happen on any vehicles? Or is this a non-existent problem?
The only way that there would be a chance of an explosion is if you have a fuel leak. Batteries can produce hydrogen gas when overcharged but it only accumulates in very confined spaces.
As ppia600 stated, you can charge with a signal lamp (sylvania 1156 or equal). This can be done by connecting the lamp across the fuse holder before placing the fuse in the holder.
tsmith1315:
If it doesn't cause other problems, that would be a good solution.
ppia600:
I've heard stories about the newer vehicles where some would not start after the battery was disconnected. They had to be towed to the dealer to have the computers reset (or whatever they do). Have you had this happen on any vehicles? Or is this a non-existent problem?
I just hook up one side (+ or -) then put a plain old bulb/screwdriver size test light between the other connectors to charge it. Once the light goes out I hook up that side. A 1f cap only takes a few seconds. You can use a resistor too Perry likely knows the large enough size, but my test light is handy so I use that. When you take it out, just test light between the posts to kill it.
Sometimes I wonder how much dimming is caused by lack of ground at the headlights rather than positive supply issues. Most cars ground to the body near the headlights, and your amps are grounded to the body as well. If that were the case a body ground to battery would help...or it might not be the case because that factory wire is so short it has a lot of capacity.
Sometimes I wonder how much dimming is caused by lack of ground at the headlights rather than positive supply issues. Most cars ground to the body near the headlights, and your amps are grounded to the body as well. If that were the case a body ground to battery would help...or it might not be the case because that factory wire is so short it has a lot of capacity.
My inlaw checks a battery by putting a wrench between the posts to see if it sparks.
Nothing like using a meter or something.
Disclaimer: no, it is not a good idea to short any battery.🙄
Nothing like using a meter or something.Disclaimer: no, it is not a good idea to short any battery.🙄
Of the countless vehicles I've worked on, there's never been one that wouldn't run after disconnecting the battery. There has to be provision to allow the customer to change the battery when needed. The ecus all keep the stock maps even after disconnecting the battery, doesn't matter how long its disconnected.
There are a few mitsubishi/chryslers made in the late 90's/early 2000's that do need to re-learn a few things if you disconnect the battery, but after a few cranks they will run fine. Mainly the galant/sebrings. Those weren't great cars, very bad electrical connector and poorly manufactured sensor issues.
There are a few mitsubishi/chryslers made in the late 90's/early 2000's that do need to re-learn a few things if you disconnect the battery, but after a few cranks they will run fine. Mainly the galant/sebrings. Those weren't great cars, very bad electrical connector and poorly manufactured sensor issues.
I've always found that I need to reconnect the battery to get the vehicle to start and run thereafter.ppia600 said:
Get this
I've read, apparently, this geezer lives in a cold climate. The cold flattens his battery at night. The next day, he gets his jump leads out, connects one end to the battery, the other he quickly shorts. That burst of short, heats the battery or somthing, and hes able to start his engine.
NOT ADVISABLE
Ditch the cap. I agree with Andrew T😉
Mikee55
I've read, apparently, this geezer lives in a cold climate. The cold flattens his battery at night. The next day, he gets his jump leads out, connects one end to the battery, the other he quickly shorts. That burst of short, heats the battery or somthing, and hes able to start his engine.
NOT ADVISABLE Ditch the cap. I agree with Andrew T😉
Mikee55
Re: Get this
What he would do is if a car didn't start or he wanted to put a bare battery in a boat or something...he would say does this have any power in it, and tap a wrench on the posts. I mean wrenches have rounded ends and he only touched it and it would fall off or he pulled it away, so it didn't do much. He used to run a garage a long time ago. Still seems odd, but I bet they did not have any meters back then.mikee55 said:
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