I just about to order a cheap crossover frequency filter. It’s for a project at home and I don’t want anything fancy and this one will suffice as long as it filters for a 3 way. I found this one on Amazon, seems to get good reviews. It doesn't explain the switch properly though. These things are often Chinese and instructions often get lost in translation.
Anyone have any ideas what exactly is the midrange adjust switch for ? It says 0hz 300hz, but that doesn’t make sense, you don’t run a midrange at 0 hz. Anyone know what it actually does?
Thanks for any responses.
https://www.amazon.com/DriSentri-Sp...0CHVTBTSD/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8
It filters in or out below 300HZ.
For mid range only use.
Someone's having a laugh here; "Electrodeless" capacitor 🤣
They mean Non Polarized, if it had no electrodes, it wouldn't work.
Checkout that fake midrange protector fuse, I wouldn't trust that!
For mid range only use.
Someone's having a laugh here; "Electrodeless" capacitor 🤣
They mean Non Polarized, if it had no electrodes, it wouldn't work.
Checkout that fake midrange protector fuse, I wouldn't trust that!
for the midrange. So I'm guessing it'll have a cut-off still within the mid-range band, but this is just another frequency shelf, is it?
As you say, it's labelling is complete nonsense, it's Chinese obviously and totally lost in translation. You say that's a 'fake' protector as well. Why even bother installing it, if its fake?
As you say, it's labelling is complete nonsense, it's Chinese obviously and totally lost in translation. You say that's a 'fake' protector as well. Why even bother installing it, if its fake?
If you know for certain these exact parts values are the ones you actually need or you think this
is a good deal from the inductor cost point of view, go ahead. Otherwise, I advise to reconsider
and evaluate this 3 way speaker in a simulator.
is a good deal from the inductor cost point of view, go ahead. Otherwise, I advise to reconsider
and evaluate this 3 way speaker in a simulator.
I believe that shown below is the circuit diagram and that the switch permits you to have just one of the 4.7 uF NP electrolytics in series with L2 or a parallel combination of the two in series with L2. This would appear to be intended to alter the midrange driver's frequency range coverage.
I suggest you consider these from ebay instead (where you will find multiple sellers): https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/40560201...f4a40b&gclid=fd478e9d555d1eaa7dcde94250f4a40b
I suggest you consider these from ebay instead (where you will find multiple sellers): https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/40560201...f4a40b&gclid=fd478e9d555d1eaa7dcde94250f4a40b
The midrange and treble protectors look like polyswitch/Positec driver protection devices.
A polyswitch goes high resistance on overload then returns to its normal low resistance of a fraction of an ohm after the overload condition has been removed.
A polyswitch goes high resistance on overload then returns to its normal low resistance of a fraction of an ohm after the overload condition has been removed.
It could be used as a two way second order, impedance aside...and FR dips.....
It could be used as a two way second order, impedance aside...and FR dips.....
I thought it may be that
I thought it may be that
The ebay version is not better component quality wise, but omits the uncertainty of how that midrange switch should be set.
It also states the frequency cuts clearly: mid-high 4000Hz / mid-low 900Hz.
It claims suitability for 4 to 8 ohm drivers, so accept that these figures may differ when used with your specific drivers.
It also states the frequency cuts clearly: mid-high 4000Hz / mid-low 900Hz.
It claims suitability for 4 to 8 ohm drivers, so accept that these figures may differ when used with your specific drivers.
It's just a variant. It doesn't change anything.
I'll tell you what this filter does:
The 1st coil passes just the bass.
The 1st row of caps ( selectable for matching to Z driver? Or to change FC?!Or both?!) for HP to the midrange/squeaker...
Then the 2nd inductor LPing it...
A tweeter gets the signal from the two paralleled caps...you can omit one to ~double crossover frequency or when it occurs you that the tweeter with higher nominal Z needs a smaller cap for the same Fc..
Whatever...the bass is a shot in the dark, the squeaker squeaks and the tweeter...maybe a resistor...who knows...a polyswitch!?
You can put a fake tweeter ha ha ha !
I'll tell you what this filter does:
The 1st coil passes just the bass.
The 1st row of caps ( selectable for matching to Z driver? Or to change FC?!Or both?!) for HP to the midrange/squeaker...
Then the 2nd inductor LPing it...
A tweeter gets the signal from the two paralleled caps...you can omit one to ~double crossover frequency or when it occurs you that the tweeter with higher nominal Z needs a smaller cap for the same Fc..
Whatever...the bass is a shot in the dark, the squeaker squeaks and the tweeter...maybe a resistor...who knows...a polyswitch!?
You can put a fake tweeter ha ha ha !
300hz is a good cut-off point anyway, isn't it.
I wish these people / sales would actually put exactly what they do on them and the frequency cut-offs, it would take all the guess work out of it.
I wish these people / sales would actually put exactly what they do on them and the frequency cut-offs, it would take all the guess work out of it.
A "good" cut-off point is the one that matches the particular frequency range specifications of your woofer and midrange.
Off the shelf crossovers such as the ones discussed above can not hope to match the specific specifications of your drivers.
The crossover will work. It may even work well for your purposes. Then again, it may be far from optimal.
Yes, I understand what you are saying. The trouble is, cheap off the shelf crossovers are limited. And ones that have more options or the ability to change set points are even more scarce. There’s always active crossovers and DSP’s, but then the price goes exponentially higher and higher, especially for a decent one. And then you have to have separate amplifiers for each driver.
And for most of us crossover design is not an easy concept to just do. And to make a good one, well that is a fine art and skill to master / perfect. Which is beyond what many of us basic DIY’ers are in it for.
Plus with a decent amp a half decent crossover that filters for drivers as it should, there's always EQ to give a sound which is pleasing to the ear, and negates a lot of the cost, and faff of painstakingly designing perfect crossovers.
And for most of us crossover design is not an easy concept to just do. And to make a good one, well that is a fine art and skill to master / perfect. Which is beyond what many of us basic DIY’ers are in it for.
Plus with a decent amp a half decent crossover that filters for drivers as it should, there's always EQ to give a sound which is pleasing to the ear, and negates a lot of the cost, and faff of painstakingly designing perfect crossovers.
While I don't know what it does, I have doubts the switch can be seen as making the cross adjustable. It could be about using it for either 2 or 3 way. The presentation appears catchy, and this appears to be a basic unit.
Yes, it seems a bit of a mystery.
I've now decided to go for the unit Galu suggested, it's basically exactly the same without the switch. And minus the poly caps, but I'm not bothered about having those either. It's also half the price again, so win-win I guess for very budget of budget crossovers. Thanks for the tip Galu.
That one also states cut off frequencies which the one with the switch doesn't. I would imagine they are the same anyway, it's practically the same thing.
Sounds like it enables / disables the midwoofer low pass filter, allowing you to use the crossover for a 2.5 way or 3 way design.
The component side and reverse side of the circuit board are shown in westsounds' link for anyone who feels inclined to trace out the function of the switch: https://www.amazon.com/DriSentri-Sp...0CHVTBTSD/ref=cm_cr_arp_d_product_top?ie=UTF8
That was precisely my interpretation of the switch action, as I stated in post #5.
Thank you!