What opamps are suitable and recomendable as upgrade to ES9028PRO board?
from the modern ones, which can handle the output current (stay linear, not just max value) OPA1612/OPA1611 perhaps..
or one can try to build a composite - opamp+transistor output buffer
Thank all you.
What about those ones I found out in e-Bay?
HDAM9988SQ/883B Gold Seal Dual Op Amps Upgrade AMP9980 LME49720HA MUSES02 01 | eBay
V4i-D Dual HDAM8888 9988SQ/883B MUSES02 01 8820 OPA2604AP Operation Amplifier | eBay
1 pcs LKS Class A JFET Discrete Opamp Dual opamp for ES9018 ES9028 AD1955 DAC | eBay
Are they usefull for my board?
What about those ones I found out in e-Bay?
HDAM9988SQ/883B Gold Seal Dual Op Amps Upgrade AMP9980 LME49720HA MUSES02 01 | eBay
V4i-D Dual HDAM8888 9988SQ/883B MUSES02 01 8820 OPA2604AP Operation Amplifier | eBay
1 pcs LKS Class A JFET Discrete Opamp Dual opamp for ES9018 ES9028 AD1955 DAC | eBay
Are they usefull for my board?
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...trying to buy Muse opamps on ebay....
True, luckly for me that Profusion are about a mile away from where I live.
I bought the same board version as ldir have and on that board was chip 9018s. Could i unsolder 9018s and replace it with 9038pro?
My chip 9038pro is machine soldered on my board and does not work.Sound do not work but display working well.I am not clear how that boards working with 9038pro and selling on Aliexpress
i suppose you do not have one board with both DAC chips soldered? or am i missing something?
ok, so you already replaced 18s with 38pro and board is dead? as I said, all ES90X8 are pin compatible, even though the DAC chips have different electrical characteristics. the board discussed was designed for 18S. however it is sold also with 28/38pro chips. the latest clearly is not appropriate for the board, even though it should be functional.
anyway, another thing is you need a proper MCU (that chip behind the display) code, which supports 38pro. the code flashed for 18s will not work. so, what message is displayed when you switch the board on?
anyway, another thing is you need a proper MCU (that chip behind the display) code, which supports 38pro. the code flashed for 18s will not work. so, what message is displayed when you switch the board on?
as expected, the MCU code is for 18s. you may need something like this: OLED display module with remote control Upgrade to our ES9028 ES9038PRO DAC-in Amplifier from Consumer Electronics on Aliexpress.com | Alibaba Group
I do not know, whether it will work for your board, but you may try to ask the seller.
actually the simplest would be to hook up an arduino and see whether you can read/write registers over i2c, and whether you can initiate the chip. for that some knowledge and 38pro datasheet would be indispensable though.
to my understanding your problem is that 18s and 38pro use different registers and values for input selection. so the dac chip with an inappropriate MCU code has simply not configured/misconfigured input selection.
perhaps you may try to power on the board without connecting MCU, the default values stored could activate an input.
I do not know, whether it will work for your board, but you may try to ask the seller.
actually the simplest would be to hook up an arduino and see whether you can read/write registers over i2c, and whether you can initiate the chip. for that some knowledge and 38pro datasheet would be indispensable though.
to my understanding your problem is that 18s and 38pro use different registers and values for input selection. so the dac chip with an inappropriate MCU code has simply not configured/misconfigured input selection.
perhaps you may try to power on the board without connecting MCU, the default values stored could activate an input.
My not-too-adulterated board as it stands.
The biggest improvement was junking all the 47uF lytics around the OpAmps replacing them with 10uF film and upping the 220uF at the output of the regulator for +/- rail with 330uF Nichicon KZ.
The tonal balance of the unit completely changed from lean to lush. Smooth with a lot more microdynamics.
The biggest improvement was junking all the 47uF lytics around the OpAmps replacing them with 10uF film and upping the 220uF at the output of the regulator for +/- rail with 330uF Nichicon KZ.
The tonal balance of the unit completely changed from lean to lush. Smooth with a lot more microdynamics.
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