It's worth reading up on how to use such a DSP crossover correctly as it's quite different than working with an analog one. I'm not sure if you can simply 'load your filters' from a PC simulation to the DSP.
Taking the suggestions of several, I am rethinking my approach. Rather then start from nothing, please recommend a bookshelf 2 way speaker that would benefit from the addition of a woofer, with an active cross over between the woofer and bookshelf.
Such as the Madison SB bromo, with an 8 inch woofer crossing over around 200 or 250hz. This would be for sealed design.
I have a sub so it does not need to go to 40hz...
This is for a home theater application.
I prefer a non-metallic tweeter.
Thanks!
Such as the Madison SB bromo, with an 8 inch woofer crossing over around 200 or 250hz. This would be for sealed design.
I have a sub so it does not need to go to 40hz...
This is for a home theater application.
I prefer a non-metallic tweeter.
Thanks!
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I hope hes not giving up because of this post....
I never followed someone elses "plans" and the builds that I have done have all been to my liking. After you learn the main goals of loudspeaker design, the rest is easy. I never understand people who say " you need to build someone elses design first"... theres really no logic to it and its a waste of time, when you could of built your own personal design, instead of someone elses dream.
Now if you don't won't learn anything and just want to end up with a higher end product for a lower price.... yes, follow someone elses design
If you are interested in creating a loudspeaker designed specifically for you and by you... don't waste your time building someone elses idea...
Simply STUDY the other designs, figure out why they did what they did and if you want to do it in your in design. The board is very knowldgeable can help you sort out the details. That combined with your own discipline to studying the art, you'll be fine.
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This was not a bad starting point at all....
Study the aspects of design then you'll definitely not want to copy someone elses design
Thats actually not a bad idea... thats basically saying you don't trust your self or have the time to learn the details so you'll go with what someone else thought was good, and add another woofer, and be done with it.... It seemed to me that you had already a basic understanding and that you didn't need to go this route...
I am using a DSP, that will provide the active crossover and anything else I need to add. I could also use the DSP for 3 way active, but most kits come with a passive xo. Either way is fine...
The purpose of this post... is to find a (TM) driver selection based on an already designed kit.... I think this has merit but I also think; How is that any better than staying in your original 3 way thread and asking " I have this much to spend.... can someone suggest their favorite or thought best, tweeter midrange combo"
Well. No one seemed interested in a meaningful response and highlighting it is nutty to grab 3 drivers and throw them in a box and expect it to work.
You could simply add a woofer to most bookshelf speakers.
What? So Allens post bellow isn't meaningful? Allen is one the most knowledgeable people on the board.... and the guy who discouraged you... I don't know who he is lol
As presented, there's dozens of proven small 2 way speaker systems designed/marketed for HT w/separate sub to choose from.
If wanting to build a 2way DIY kit, then:
sqrt(200*20000) = 2000 Hz mean
sqrt(200*2000) = ~632 Hz mean
13543/pi/632 = ~6.82" effective piston diameter = 8 - 10" frame, so choose depending on how 'strong' you want the male voice and/or 'boom/punch' to search: https://www.google.com/search?q=DIY+kit+2way+home+theater+bookshelf+speaker&sca_esv=580505413&rlz=1C1AVNG_enUS675US675&sxsrf=AM9HkKnOOJDb7rcQ_a6FPCRl3Z3yfuxf4A:1699459229573&ei=nbBLZcO_IsioqtsPpqCvwAQ&ved=0ahUKEwiDgsH94rSCAxVIlGoFHSbQC0gQ4dUDCBA&uact=5&oq=DIY+kit+2way+home+theater+bookshelf+speaker&gs_lp=Egxnd3Mtd2l6LXNlcnAiK0RJWSBraXQgMndheSBob21lIHRoZWF0ZXIgYm9va3NoZWxmIHNwZWFrZXIyBRAAGKIEMgUQABiiBEjCOlD9FVimM3ABeAGQAQCYAX2gAdAGqgEDMi42uAEDyAEA-AEBwgIKEAAYRxjWBBiwA-IDBBgAIEGIBgGQBgg&sclient=gws-wiz-serp
I saw your other thread and didn’t comment, but I have a question you may want to consider for either project. What are your goals? You’ve already heard how hard it can be to design from the ground up, but it’s harder without constraints and goals. When you picked the three original drivers, what spoke to you about them? What are you trying to get them to do? The same problem is going to plague you on the monitors, too. It’s a better bet starting with bookshelves and adding separate bass cabinets. Plenty to learn there, still.
You had some of the most respected people on the forum trying to help you in the last thread. They still will if you show the effort. More will come if you show you’re willing to hear criticism and advice, but none of that matters without a why and it’s still the problem here.
Why build your own speakers at all? Everyone‘s builds answer this in their own way. For me, it was value and learning. The learning part has lasted years after building for me. Is your goal practical, abstract, simple?
You had some of the most respected people on the forum trying to help you in the last thread. They still will if you show the effort. More will come if you show you’re willing to hear criticism and advice, but none of that matters without a why and it’s still the problem here.
Why build your own speakers at all? Everyone‘s builds answer this in their own way. For me, it was value and learning. The learning part has lasted years after building for me. Is your goal practical, abstract, simple?
TDA 2030 based 2.1 kit $2 and upwards here, 12-0-12 supply, 3 chips, subwoofer drive through 4558 based crossover, stereo input.
One each stereo output, and third for woofer.
Even has bass and treble connections.
Not worth developing...there are higher powered versions as well.
Just search for 2.1 amp board.
There may be a version in Class D, and also one suitable for DSP.
One each stereo output, and third for woofer.
Even has bass and treble connections.
Not worth developing...there are higher powered versions as well.
Just search for 2.1 amp board.
There may be a version in Class D, and also one suitable for DSP.
Overall this is a reasonable approach. A small 2-way can be integrated with an 8" woofer at 200 - 250 Hz. If you invest in an inexpensive USB mic, you can make some near field and ground plane measurements to help the integration process, and get the integration close. With patience and careful listening, you should be able to fine-tune the gain between the 8" and the 2-way to get something you like. You can experiment with 1st order and 2nd order filters.
What is your budget? how much do you want to spend on the 2-way kit?
Two-way kits span the range from $200 to over $2000.
The reason I like this approach for @icenoir is that the crucial midrange - treble region will be handled by the kit designer. The deep bass, mid-bass, upper-bass, and lower midrange are all deeply affected by room modes anyway, so there is always some subjective assessment and adjustment required there anyway.