I just did a bunch of resistors on an attenuator board, and I wanted to ask if anyone had any comments or critiques on my soldering technique. I feel like I'm getting better at being more consistent, although the top aside shows variability in how much solder comes through the board.
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Might want to clip the leads a little closer. The soldering looks ok, but consider getting these.
https://tubedepot.com/products/1-2-and-3-watt-lead-benderhttps://tubedepot.com/products/1-4-1-2-watt-lead-bender
https://tubedepot.com/products/1-2-and-3-watt-lead-benderhttps://tubedepot.com/products/1-4-1-2-watt-lead-bender
Ahh, I’d forgotten about those. I just placed an order from Tube Depot, too! Oh well, I’ll add them to my Mouser list.
To use the bender, find the slot position that exactly fits between the inner edges of the two holes.
Then when you bend the leads, they will drop right into the holes.
Besides looking better, the tool relieves bending strain from the component end terminations.
Then when you bend the leads, they will drop right into the holes.
Besides looking better, the tool relieves bending strain from the component end terminations.
This was/is most helpful starting out. I have experience soldering stain glass and copper plumbing, I've never worked on circuit boards. It goes through all aspects of soldering from the bare basics up on through if you watch every lesson, and explains things in a way that its all easy to follow and understand.
These lessons are worth watching if you want to wield an iron around circuitry. Using the correct solder often over looked by the rookie, and can turn a bad solder-er into a great one. The wiz
There are more videos out there how to do things wrong so long as you know how to follow them "right" imho
Your solder job looks good.
These lessons are worth watching if you want to wield an iron around circuitry. Using the correct solder often over looked by the rookie, and can turn a bad solder-er into a great one. The wiz
There are more videos out there how to do things wrong so long as you know how to follow them "right" imho
Your solder job looks good.
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I think it looks like you are getting the hang of it.
Most of your joints look good, ie hot soldered and not cold. From the underside, all but one looks good. You need to fix the one with a hole in the solder joint.
In general, it looks like you could use a bit better flow and heat transfer. You can achieve this several ways, and not nescessarily through increasing iron temp.
1: Ensure tips are clean. Use tip renewer on old ones, and ensure you always cover the tip in solder during breaks and when finished.
2: Ensure big enough tips.
3: Buy flux. Liquid is easier to clean up. Use it.
4: Try counting, the same amount for the following: number of seconds preheating pad, number of seconds applying solder @ equal tempo, and number of seconds of leaving the iron in the joint after applying solder. Experienced solderers I have heard count to three only: 1. preheat, 2. apply, 3, leave tip in joint, and retract.
How much time is needed depends on your technique, heat transfer, solder, solder island size ang thickness. You need to experiment.
Remember to apply enough heat, but not too much. Ime it can pay off to be careful with the heat until you are comfy.
Cutting leads short and such is fine, but not really important for function as long as you avoid shorts 🙂
My two cents.
Regards,
Andy
Good tips Andy, thanks! For the counting, do you mean they would count to three for each step, or count one second for each of the three steps?
Per Rayma's suggestion for the bending jig, straight leads not only drop in nicely, they are easier to desolder should you ever need to.
I have found that angled leads can damage the pads and vias.
I have found that angled leads can damage the pads and vias.
My current process is to bend them "straight" over my finger, then flare them out to hold them in place once they're through the board. I've ordered some bend tools, but should I avoid flaring the leads?
Yes, just bend the leads slightly enough to hold the part in place while turning the board over and soldering.
Some pcb holders have a fixture to press the parts to the board while working on the other side.
The JB boards have holes that are too large for the leads on your resistors, that's why the
solder joints don't quite form properly. They should have a symmetric concave fillet.
For my purposes, the ideal hole size is 1.2 x the lead diameter.
You'll seldom get a fillet like that on the component side, though.
Some pcb holders have a fixture to press the parts to the board while working on the other side.
The JB boards have holes that are too large for the leads on your resistors, that's why the
solder joints don't quite form properly. They should have a symmetric concave fillet.
For my purposes, the ideal hole size is 1.2 x the lead diameter.
You'll seldom get a fillet like that on the component side, though.
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Do you typically solder a part as soon as it's inserted? I've been inserting parts in big batches then flipping and soldering in one big pass.
You and Andy have both given me some good direction to look at via-a-vis joint flow and formation. I'll keep that in mind.
I used to flare ends for convenience while soldering, but i have damaged a few pads pulling resistors with flared leads (probably my own incompetence). I prefer straight leads - they just drop out.
It certainly can have. I wouldn't feel overly confident in sloppy looking solder joints.
The op created nice little puddles around the pins, those look like perfect solder puddles.
I've taken a couple of professional solder courses.Main points,clean leads and pads with lint free wipes and 99% Isopropyl,use 63/37 solder,use flux.You don't need a ton of solder,a slight concave leading up the lead is ideal.
I do parts one at a time, but that's because I have unlimited patience to do things right the first time.
And no patience for screw-ups.
According to max
I have nothing against his soldering, it looks way better than mine. Thats why me and max needs proof. Double blind or nothing.
According to max tillotson you need double blind experiment to prove your point
I have nothing against his soldering, it looks way better than mine. Thats why me and max needs proof. Double blind or nothing.
I am not sure, because what works for some might not work for others. I sometimes count to three between each step, but that does not mean three seconds. The advice is basically to find a rythm that works for you, that after a bit of trial and error increases your chance of getting more equal joints. Equal heat transfer, solder amounts and timings, are key in achieving that. For me at least. Also, once the flow is really good, you can see it - almost hear it, going through to the other side. Then, just hang on a wee bit more, and you are through - solder on both sides, nice fillings and concave joints.
