Hey All,
Long time listener, first time caller...
I've been searching through threads here but not finding what I'm looking for.
Does anyone know of a xover calculator that will let you "play" with the cap and coil values?
Every one I've looked at only lets you enter the speaker impedance and xover frequency, then spits out L & C values.
Of course these values are usually not standard values, so it would be nice to be able to adjust the cap value to a close standard
value and have the calculator adjust the coil value, or vice-versa.
Now please, just a simple question, not looking for the usual rhetoric about Q-factors, or phase angles or "do the maths"....
Just pointing out hat the online calculators only let you specify some of the variables, but not others....
Regards
JohnR
Long time listener, first time caller...
I've been searching through threads here but not finding what I'm looking for.
Does anyone know of a xover calculator that will let you "play" with the cap and coil values?
Every one I've looked at only lets you enter the speaker impedance and xover frequency, then spits out L & C values.
Of course these values are usually not standard values, so it would be nice to be able to adjust the cap value to a close standard
value and have the calculator adjust the coil value, or vice-versa.
Now please, just a simple question, not looking for the usual rhetoric about Q-factors, or phase angles or "do the maths"....
Just pointing out hat the online calculators only let you specify some of the variables, but not others....
Regards
JohnR
Explore this calculator: https://speakerwizard.co.uk/1st-and-2nd-order-crossover-calculator-and-response-simulator/
It use resistor values not impedances of the drivers. It does not take account for the acoustic loading from the baffle.
If JohnR is looking for crossover design software, then XSim is the way to go.
However, he did imply he was looking for an online crossover calculator.
However, he did imply he was looking for an online crossover calculator.
I was looking for the same thing for quite a while, but haven't found an online tool that works like this.
so f 'ing what that you have to down load it to use it, sorry i'm somewhat tired of spoon feeding the next generation despite my own expectations not being met ...
Even as I'm no fan of VISATON speakers (aged, overpriced) they have a very nice, free calculator. https://www.visaton.de/en/literature-software/software
Consider anything simpler than the Visaton tool 100% useless and easily 200% off in part values. You never get anything well sounding from simple calculator as Speakers are no resistors, even if they have an Ohm value printed on the back. Their resistance changes with frequency. You need a few hundred data points to get a "near HIFI" x-over. Do not even use such a calculator "for a try", you blow a tweeter faster than you can listen!
Downside, the Visaton tool has only data for Visaton speakers. If you do not believe me, do a simple two way in the Wizzard and in Visaton. It is not as complicated as it might seem and fun to play around. When your Visaton simulation shows something reasonable, fill in the part values into the Wizzard and vice versa.
Consider the Visaton tool to be about 90% on target while the Wizzard will deliver unusable results.
Please consider a few things "junior builders" do not take serious in most cases:
Even if you have found two nice speakers that are able to play together, the dimensions of the speaker cabinets front and the position of the chassis on it will have a huge influence on the frequency response. This means an x-over for one a given dimension will not work if you "improve" things. The worst thing a rookie can do.
The best you can do for you first builds is to use a Kit with a good reputation, independent reputation I must add.
Stick to the dimensions given by the plan, do not skip steps and do not go for any shortcuts.
Even a cabinet with a vent has to be 100% air tight, some do not understand this. Screws are only helping with the build, the finished construct is held together by high performance wood glue. You can not get out your old jig saw and do the cutting on a basement floor. Get 100% straight cut´s made by a professional circular saw on Home Depot or where ever they sell wood panels in your region.
In 5 years, when you have done a hand full successful builds and acquired all the measuring tools, microphones and software, maybe try to design your first own loudspeaker. Chances are high, at that point, you will leave designing to the Pro`s, as you have learned that a loudspeaker and a good sounding loudspeaker are dimensions apart.
The money you pay on top for, maybe a Troels Gravesen plan, is not really noticeable, as the acoustic result will be compare able only with a commercial speaker 5 or more times the cost. How they look is up to you and your skills.
If you can not build a straight box from wood, maybe improve your skills in wood working and surface finishing, but do not insist to design whole speaker systems from zero knowledge.
By the way, keep away from PA guys. Their products and results have nothing in common with a home HIFI speaker!
Just tell them: No multi amps, no active x-over, no DSP, no equalizer, frequency response plus minus 2dB and they will run away.
.
Consider anything simpler than the Visaton tool 100% useless and easily 200% off in part values. You never get anything well sounding from simple calculator as Speakers are no resistors, even if they have an Ohm value printed on the back. Their resistance changes with frequency. You need a few hundred data points to get a "near HIFI" x-over. Do not even use such a calculator "for a try", you blow a tweeter faster than you can listen!
Downside, the Visaton tool has only data for Visaton speakers. If you do not believe me, do a simple two way in the Wizzard and in Visaton. It is not as complicated as it might seem and fun to play around. When your Visaton simulation shows something reasonable, fill in the part values into the Wizzard and vice versa.
Consider the Visaton tool to be about 90% on target while the Wizzard will deliver unusable results.
Please consider a few things "junior builders" do not take serious in most cases:
Even if you have found two nice speakers that are able to play together, the dimensions of the speaker cabinets front and the position of the chassis on it will have a huge influence on the frequency response. This means an x-over for one a given dimension will not work if you "improve" things. The worst thing a rookie can do.
The best you can do for you first builds is to use a Kit with a good reputation, independent reputation I must add.
Stick to the dimensions given by the plan, do not skip steps and do not go for any shortcuts.
Even a cabinet with a vent has to be 100% air tight, some do not understand this. Screws are only helping with the build, the finished construct is held together by high performance wood glue. You can not get out your old jig saw and do the cutting on a basement floor. Get 100% straight cut´s made by a professional circular saw on Home Depot or where ever they sell wood panels in your region.
In 5 years, when you have done a hand full successful builds and acquired all the measuring tools, microphones and software, maybe try to design your first own loudspeaker. Chances are high, at that point, you will leave designing to the Pro`s, as you have learned that a loudspeaker and a good sounding loudspeaker are dimensions apart.
The money you pay on top for, maybe a Troels Gravesen plan, is not really noticeable, as the acoustic result will be compare able only with a commercial speaker 5 or more times the cost. How they look is up to you and your skills.
If you can not build a straight box from wood, maybe improve your skills in wood working and surface finishing, but do not insist to design whole speaker systems from zero knowledge.
By the way, keep away from PA guys. Their products and results have nothing in common with a home HIFI speaker!
Just tell them: No multi amps, no active x-over, no DSP, no equalizer, frequency response plus minus 2dB and they will run away.
.
It might be that he can't download it on the computer he wants to use. My issue was I wanted to be able to work on crossovers at work in between jobs, but I can't download XSim to my work computer. If I could have found a decent online calculator, my problem would have been solved. I don't think he's asking to be spoon-fed, he's asking where he can get the tools to do his own work. This is what forums are for.
Online tools are mostly not worh much, Xsim is great and free, even with static resistance (imaginary) drivers to learn how analog crossovers work. And you can see real time how the curve moves when changing a value. I don't know a webcalculator that does that. Most are very static and don't work with real impendance, just a mandatory 8R or 4R
But to make real crossovers you need measurements of the drivers itself, preferable in the box where they are used in.
But to make real crossovers you need measurements of the drivers itself, preferable in the box where they are used in.
i get you but since a long ago the basics of x-over calc's are the domain of simple math why are these questions still being asked are computers overwriting simple logic
One that may do it slightly (but i don't know how accurate it is) is this one: https://www.micka.de/en/2weg_en.php#ideal
No, but those simple math calculations were never accurate. And pro's did way more than simple math on static impendance, they worked long for a real accurate crossover with trial and error (with measurements of each trial) to find the right setup. That is why in the old days before snake oil studio monitors were so expensive, engineers spend sometimes weeks or months on designing the crossover.
I don't want to keep this tangent going, but a new member asked for help. This is typically a very helpful, friendly source. New members are important and their questions shouldn't be dismissed. Scroll past if it irritates you.
Rant over.
Thanks for hearing me out. 🙂
Rant over.
Thanks for hearing me out. 🙂
My, My, My....
So much for a simple question/simple answer....
So as to the disbarage thinking that I'm some newbie to speaker building, I will say that I have been building
since the mid 70's when I worked for a then prominent sound system manufacturer.
Oh yes, I'm a PA guy... Everybody run...
I've built many concert grade speaker systems in my lifetime, mostly electronic xover/multiamp.
Smaller cabinets, stage monitors and such were passive.
And back in the old days, yes we did the maths, then some trial and error listening until we were happy with the sound...
Over the years when I did build some personal hi-fi stuff, but I would buy premade passives (Parts Express, etc).
My original question about a calculator that would let you tweak values stems from the fact that I have a pile of
coils left over from years back that were used in a 2nd order 800Hz design.
And my thought was to tweak values to see if I could use them in a 1000 - 1200Hz design...
I'm not looking to be spoon fed, just looking for a resource that will allow me to play with an idea.
Oh, and I do have a tablesaw large enough to handle full sheets by myself,
air staplers, screw guns, clamping jigs, all the good glues and stuff,
and the only time I use a jigsaw is for making my initial router templates...
JohnR
So much for a simple question/simple answer....
So as to the disbarage thinking that I'm some newbie to speaker building, I will say that I have been building
since the mid 70's when I worked for a then prominent sound system manufacturer.
Oh yes, I'm a PA guy... Everybody run...
I've built many concert grade speaker systems in my lifetime, mostly electronic xover/multiamp.
Smaller cabinets, stage monitors and such were passive.
And back in the old days, yes we did the maths, then some trial and error listening until we were happy with the sound...
Over the years when I did build some personal hi-fi stuff, but I would buy premade passives (Parts Express, etc).
My original question about a calculator that would let you tweak values stems from the fact that I have a pile of
coils left over from years back that were used in a 2nd order 800Hz design.
And my thought was to tweak values to see if I could use them in a 1000 - 1200Hz design...
I'm not looking to be spoon fed, just looking for a resource that will allow me to play with an idea.
Oh, and I do have a tablesaw large enough to handle full sheets by myself,
air staplers, screw guns, clamping jigs, all the good glues and stuff,
and the only time I use a jigsaw is for making my initial router templates...
JohnR