Hello
Can someone please help me design a crossover, I have never done this before.
MTM using..
2 Aurasound-ns3-193-8a1
https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.c...urasound-ns3-193-8a1-3-black-cone-wide-range/
1 Tymphany/Vifa bc25sc55-04
Tymphany BC25SC55-04 1" Square Frame Tweeter
The speakers will be flush mounted to a baffle wall of sorts, so no baffle step compensation.
I appreciate any help!
Shawn
Can someone please help me design a crossover, I have never done this before.
MTM using..
2 Aurasound-ns3-193-8a1
https://www.madisoundspeakerstore.c...urasound-ns3-193-8a1-3-black-cone-wide-range/
1 Tymphany/Vifa bc25sc55-04
Tymphany BC25SC55-04 1" Square Frame Tweeter
The speakers will be flush mounted to a baffle wall of sorts, so no baffle step compensation.
I appreciate any help!
Shawn
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I would try to keep this simple: running Auras as fullrange without no filter and using Tymphany as super-tweeter, crossed somewhere extremely high.
Someone else might give a second opinion.
I was a bit nervous of posting this, because stock crossovers always draw a chorus of boos, but feel it's quite justified here by what Jim Griffin got to. 😀
HW 2/70 NG - 4 Ohm
cf. Jim Griffins effort:
Jim Griffin's Aura T-line 2-way
Add 4 ohms to the bass shunt because these are high inductance drivers and want a Zobel, add a couple of resistors to the tweeter filter, like 4 ohm series at input and 10 ohm shunt across the tweeter and these correlate nicely.
One thing though. These little aura drivers are huge inductance, which means they come with bafflestep built in. They probably won't work wall mounted.
HW 2/70 NG - 4 Ohm
cf. Jim Griffins effort:
Jim Griffin's Aura T-line 2-way
Add 4 ohms to the bass shunt because these are high inductance drivers and want a Zobel, add a couple of resistors to the tweeter filter, like 4 ohm series at input and 10 ohm shunt across the tweeter and these correlate nicely.
One thing though. These little aura drivers are huge inductance, which means they come with bafflestep built in. They probably won't work wall mounted.
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Thanks all for the replies. I have a number of questions but I will start with this one.
Can you help me understand how this is? Also I am using Audyssey MultEQ XT. Do you think that can correct this?
Thanks
Shawn
Can you help me understand how this is? Also I am using Audyssey MultEQ XT. Do you think that can correct this?
Thanks
Shawn
There are some basses that are designed to run with no crossover at all. For box mounted types like that H1411-08 A26RE4, these are usually around 3mH. Wall mounted, perhaps 0.6mH PA Eminence types which are notably bass light.
I can only base what I said on the fact that Jim Griffin's design was notably bassy in a narrow TL enclosure. Put that on a wall and the 6dB bass gain will be overpowering.
Maybe you can electronically equalise it out, but that isn't what I thought you were asking. High Le inductance means bassy, it's like a big bafflestep coil built in. And those Aura's without quoting Le go up to 60 ohms at 20kHz. That's a lot.
I don't think you should make it harder than it is. 3L per driver and a narrowish MTM cabinet. The driver has been designed to work this way.
I can only base what I said on the fact that Jim Griffin's design was notably bassy in a narrow TL enclosure. Put that on a wall and the 6dB bass gain will be overpowering.
Maybe you can electronically equalise it out, but that isn't what I thought you were asking. High Le inductance means bassy, it's like a big bafflestep coil built in. And those Aura's without quoting Le go up to 60 ohms at 20kHz. That's a lot.
I don't think you should make it harder than it is. 3L per driver and a narrowish MTM cabinet. The driver has been designed to work this way.
I really want to try for a baffle wall. But I don't want bassy... Tough thing. Audyssey uses most of it's computing power in the lower frequencies, I wonder if it can work this one out.
With your advice on the crossover I would be all but ready to pull the trigger and order the Vifa tweeters and the crossover parts.... Am I playing risky now though with this baffle wall...?
With your advice on the crossover I would be all but ready to pull the trigger and order the Vifa tweeters and the crossover parts.... Am I playing risky now though with this baffle wall...?
Can you rig something up with a piece of thick cardboard and see how those drivers sound mounted in the wall somehow? Run them with no filter and your audyssey equaliser thingie? Should give you an idea.
See, this all a bit of departure from the narrow box idea. For Jim Griffin's bass filter, you need a box of similar width. The driver Le must be around 1.5mH I reckon, but it's not clear how aura measured the frequency response. Could be in a cabinet, could be on a large flat baffle.
Off the top of my head, I don't think Jim's filter adds a lot of bafflestep aka bass boost on its own.
See, this all a bit of departure from the narrow box idea. For Jim Griffin's bass filter, you need a box of similar width. The driver Le must be around 1.5mH I reckon, but it's not clear how aura measured the frequency response. Could be in a cabinet, could be on a large flat baffle.
Off the top of my head, I don't think Jim's filter adds a lot of bafflestep aka bass boost on its own.
Ok, that's a great idea. I am going to mock something up, possibly this weekend and see how they sound. If I can get the bass right then I will move forward on this. If not then I will either build mtm cabinets like we've discussed or will find different drivers for a baffle wall (likely this).
Just to get this clear, the Visaton crossover you mentioned above, does that have baffle step?
Thanks
Shawn
Just to get this clear, the Visaton crossover you mentioned above, does that have baffle step?
Thanks
Shawn
I think Jim's gentler slopes work better on the tweeter after a quick model. He must know what he's doing with those drivers. TBH, there's loads of ways of doing a tweeter filter, I'd go tried and tested here.
Jim Griffin's Aura T-line 2-way
So it's 0.5mH bass coil, 22uF and 4R shunt on the parallel basses. 2.7uF series on tweeter, 0.4mH shunt coil and maybe adjustable 8-12 ohms in series with the tweeter after the CL.
Not rocket science, this filter. Almost no bafflestep at all. 🙂
Just the question of how bassy it sounds. Maybe I'm overestimating what the drivers themselves put out.
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